Best 6.5prc brass to reduce clickers

[wapitibob]

The aw2 should have a busing on the front that is a slip fit in the barrel bore and the body flutes should self align in the chamber. The good and bad of reamers is they follow the existing bore.

 

[BBob]

How do you keep the reamer perfectly true/concentric to Center of bore? Seems if turning by hand it would be really easy to put too much pressure on one side and cut it out of round. How do you prevent that?

Still wish I could find a video.

That’ll never happen. It’ll follow the existing chamber and you’re removing so little material it’d be pretty hard to F-up especially with an extension through the action. Pretty hard to side load it doing that.

 

[SDHNTR]

That’ll never happen. It’ll follow the existing chamber and you’re removing so little material it’d be pretty hard to F-up especially with an extension through the action. Pretty hard to side load it doing that.

Interesting. Seems like it would be even easier to sideload with the extension. Sorry for the dumb questions, but also how do you keep it from going in too far and cutting a new shoulder and throat?

 

[Castle Rock]

It will noticeably stop advancing

 

[BBob]

how do you keep it from going in too far and cutting a new shoulder and throat?

As said just above it will stop or become readily apparent that you have hit the shoulder.

What is the original chamber in the rifle? What rifle? SAAMI chamber?

For all intents and purposes the AW 2 reamer is virtually identical to a SAAMI reamer as far as the throat. It may make minute changes to a SAAMI throat but nothing that would make much difference at all if it did.

 

[SDHNTR]

As said just above it will stop or become readily apparent that you have hit the shoulder.

What is the original chamber in the rifle? What rifle? SAAMI chamber?

For all intents and purposes the AW 2 reamer is virtually identical to a SAAMI reamer as far as the throat. It may make minute changes to a SAAMI throat but nothing that would make much difference at all if it did.

It’s a custom Defiance Anti on a Mullerworks barrel. It’s a SAAMi chamber as it was built a few years back before this problem was well known.

 

[BBob]

SAAMi chamber

Then you shouldn't have any issues using an AW 2 reamer.

 

[SDHNTR]

Then you shouldn't have any issues using an AW 2 reamer.

It’s .532 at the back now.

 

[khuber84]

It’s .532 at the back now.

I reamed 4 chambers with aw2 reamer, granted I pulled the barrels. Just go in a lil bit, 3-4 revolutions with a lightly oiled reamer, with light rear pressure. Pull reamer, blow the chamber out with air hose and blow the reamer off, run a patch through, re-apply light coat of oil to reamer and repeat. You're only removing 0.0015 of each side the chamber wall at the rear, that dimension tapers back to saami spec as it gets to the shoulder. It's pretty quick and easy. I think it took me 90 mins to do 4 barrels, that included a Christensen that didn't have a pinned recoil lug, was tricky getting it perfectly aligned with the factory bedding.

 

[SDHNTR]

I reamed 4 chambers with aw2 reamer, granted I pulled the barrels. Just go in a lil bit, 3-4 revolutions with a lightly oiled reamer, with light rear pressure. Pull reamer, blow the chamber out with air hose and blow the reamer off, run a patch through, re-apply light coat of oil to reamer and repeat. You're only removing 0.0015 of each side the chamber wall at the rear, that dimension tapers back to saami spec as it gets to the shoulder. It's pretty quick and easy. I think it took me 90 mins to do 4 barrels, that included a Christensen that didn't have a pinned recoil lug, was tricky getting it perfectly aligned with the factory bedding.

And then polish after?

 

[khuber84]

And then polish after?

I took some steel wool on a small wood dowl and roughed up the chamber walls a bit. Don't want an ultra smooth chamber, usually a smith will use some sand paper and put a cross hatch in a new chamber for case walls to grip better.

 

[SDHNTR]

I took some steel wool on a small wood dowl and roughed up the chamber walls a bit. Don't want an ultra smooth chamber, usually a smith will use some sand paper and put a cross hatch in a new chamber for case walls to grip better.

Right, I’m aware. I wasn’t planning on using too fine a grit and polishing smooth.

 

[BBob]

6.5 PRC AW 2 print. The AW 2 is .535” at the .200” line.

 

[SDHNTR]

6.5 PRC AW 2 print. The AW 2 is .535” at the .200” line.

Yes, I’m aware. I’ve seen the print before and understand what it does. I just don’t have any experience with a reamer. I don’t even know what I dont know.

 

[SDHNTR]

Well, I have an AW2 reamer rented and on the way. Here goes nothing. Still somewhat intimidated, and wish there was a YouTube video out showing the process, but I’m sure I can figure it out. Hopefully I don’t trash the barrel in the process.

 

[Pilsner]

Ok, I'll ask. What's a "clinker" in this context?
Thanks,
Brian

 

[SDHNTR]

Ok, I'll ask. What's a "clinker" in this context?
Thanks,
Brian

Clicker. Swollen brass at the base. Leads to difficult bolt lift that makes a click sound when the bolt handle hits the primary extraction cam.

 

[SDHNTR]

Well the deed is done. Rented reamer arrived today and I went at it. No idea if I did it right, but I did have several pieces of fired brass that were clickers before and now they extract smoothly. I guess that's a good sign. I just hope I didn't take too much off. I did more turning than I expected. I was also very careful not to push on the back of the reamer though, so may be that's why. I never saw any metal filings up at the front end of the reamer near the shoulder, so I guess that's good. The metal that was removed was very fine grit. I just turned until it didn't seem like it was cutting anymore and no more metal grit appeared.

Then I wrapped 0000 steel wool around a .44 cal pistol brush, applied a few drops of oil, screwed it to an old section of cleaning rod, chucked it in my drill and gave it probably 30 seconds of medium speed and some push pull motion. Upon inspection with the borescope I had some nice crosshatch scratches applied. Cleaned and put it all back together and everything seems good. Won't get a chance to shoot it until next week. Yes, I'm more than a bit nervous. Fingers crossed.

 

[SDHNTR]

Confirmed success. Went to the range this morning. Had nine rounds left from a batch that previously gave me clickers. No clickers this time. Buttery smooth extraction. Shot a three-quarter inch group with all nine of those rounds. Just needed a couple clicks to re-zero. All good.

 

[wapitibob]

I was also very careful not to push on the back of the reamer though, so may be that's why. I never saw any metal filings up at the front end of the reamer near the shoulder, so I guess that's good. The metal that was removed was very fine grit. I just turned until it didn't seem like it was cutting anymore and no more metal grit appeared.

Exactly how it should be done.