Barrel Vise Recommendations

I don’t get the tikka issue. I’ve always had Howa’s for builds and they are like a Lego set when it comes to tearing the actions down. I’m building a tikka now and debating just getting a ja outdoors action instead of dealing with pulling a barrel. Has anyone damaged the action by using an action wrench? I’ve always used a wheeler #2 for my action removals.
 
I don’t get the tikka issue. I’ve always had Howa’s for builds and they are like a Lego set when it comes to tearing the actions down. I’m building a tikka now and debating just getting a ja outdoors action instead of dealing with pulling a barrel. Has anyone damaged the action by using an action wrench? I’ve always used a wheeler #2 for my action removals.

My example of one.. kinda gives me the vibe that guys either had a light shitty table to mount to. Or too short of a handle on the wrench.
 
I don’t get the tikka issue. I’ve always had Howa’s for builds and they are like a Lego set when it comes to tearing the actions down. I’m building a tikka now and debating just getting a ja outdoors action instead of dealing with pulling a barrel. Has anyone damaged the action by using an action wrench? I’ve always used a wheeler #2 for my action removals.

That’s what I use to remove factory barrels. They aren’t that bad as long as you have a good grip with the barrel vice. I like to get it all ready, then put the barreled action in the freezer overnight. Pull it out, get it in the vice, propane torch on the action over the tenon for a few seconds, then give the action wrench a rap with a 2# hammer. They pop loose pretty easy that way.


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Lots of swapping barrels in this thread, but what do you all use to just attach a muzzle device? Do you still clamp into a barrel vice, or is there another method for those of us without barrel vices?



My experience has all been with AR15s where I just stick an action rod through the upper receiver.

Thanks.
 
Lots of swapping barrels in this thread, but what do you all use to just attach a muzzle device? Do you still clamp into a barrel vice, or is there another method for those of us without barrel vices?



My experience has all been with AR15s where I just stick an action rod through the upper receiver.

Thanks.

If you're really wanting to crank down a brake or mount, then it's easy to just place the barrel in the vise to allow you to torque the device down. I've done that to remove some factory brakes and they just pop right off once the barrel is secured.
 
So from the SAC offerings - the Bravo with Tikka insert seems the way to go then?

I missed the sale but want to get this freaking barrel removed haha.

Ended up going with the Bravo kit. Like all SAC products, this is very well made. Won't have a chance to test it for a few days, but hoping to have my barrel swapped out soon enough.

Tikka 6 ARC has been a long time coming.
 
They are hard to remove, without the right tools and knowledge.

They are easy to remove with both the above.

Dozens of removals with Brownells Action Wrench and SAC vice, never a mar or mark. And, tighten the vide absurdly tight and use a good heavy hammer to impart some shock. Cheater bars create problems.

I am testing a steel Buffalo Creek barrel vice and custom action wrench and will report on that. I like it a lot so far.

Video might still be uploading.

 
Lots of swapping barrels in this thread, but what do you all use to just attach a muzzle device? Do you still clamp into a barrel vice, or is there another method for those of us without barrel vices?



My experience has all been with AR15s where I just stick an action rod through the upper receiver.

Thanks.
I use two of these to crank on my thread adapters when I get a barrel that has to be threaded 1/2x28:

1765559709661.png

I don't use muzzle breaks or flash hiders but if I did I'd probably just stick an allen key or screwdriver into or thru the device, put the butt of the stock between my feet and turn it by hand as tight as I can. With rocksett or Loctite.
 
tighten the vise absurdly tight and use a good heavy hammer to impart some shock.
Thanks -- good to see that in action (pun intended).

If you have a chance, could you throw a 1/2" torque wrench on it and put a number on 'absurdly tight'?

Also would be worth knowing what size and pitch of fasteners the various vices employ, and if/how they are lubricated.
 
Thanks -- good to see that in action (pun intended).

If you have a chance, could you throw a 1/2" torque wrench on it and put a number on 'absurdly tight'?

Also would be worth knowing what size and pitch of fasteners the various vices employ, and if/how they are lubricated.
I can put torque wrench on it. It will be between male orangutan and silverback gorilla… short of putting a cheater bar on the allen key or a hammer, it’s pulling almost full force until it stops moving.

Kinda funny the drywall tape has an imprint of the engraving like braille.

The Buffalo Creek vice is steel, which I like. I can see the amount of stress on this aluminum SAC vice is significant.
 
My old school 1/2" micrometer wrench is about two feet long. Have to be careful sometimes or I break stuff.

I'm also curious about these.
 
My old school 1/2" micrometer wrench is about two feet long. Have to be careful sometimes or I break stuff.

I'm also curious about these.
The bushings don’t work on the curves/tapers. I had it and sold it years ago. With the right bushings it would work.

I had it back when I didn’t know as much, but it worked on the heavy profile match barrels.
 
For removal? External, no question.
Factory removal, external only.…

Everything else, internal. I can use an internal wrench and a sporter viper vice to swap barrels at the range and not take it out of the stock or remove the scope.

Did that and shot these groups with four identical brand new barrels. Interesting that the POI did not move much at all.

IMG_0366.jpeg
 
I torque barrels to 100 and use anti seize. Never loctite. I used 80 ft lbs on personal barrels for years. It’s not an issue with them coming off.
 
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