Barrel Vise Recommendations

TxLite

WKR
Joined
Sep 6, 2018
Messages
2,784
Location
Texas
The top plate of my viper bent while trying to remove a tikka barrel (mission failed) and I find myself in a position where I can either replace just the top plate or switch to a different system.

Typical use for the vise has been carbon barrels so the standard viper has not been ideal (but worked totally fine as long as you don’t crunch down on the carbon). I am considering switching to narrower viper hd, but I don’t think they sell just the top plate for that model. I plan on calling them to find out since they claim the top plate will work on the standard 4 post viper. $50 sounds more ideal than $300 and some new holes in the bench.

Are there any other vises that I should be looking at?
 
I’ve used the PMA II on three barrel removals and been happy with its modularity.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have taken off half dozen Tikka factory barrels with TWO viper vices. One is a standard with the top plate cut in two and the other is for "sporter" barrels. I clamp both down on a table and it works like a charm. I had the regular Viper that worked on everything else. I wanted the second vice when removing my barrels so I don't have to take off the scope when swapping barrels. At lower torque it is easy to remove barrels.

But, I intend to get the SAC vice above.
 
I broke the SAC Bravo Barrel vise pictured above removing a T3X Compact 223 Barrel. Somehow the nut that hold the clamp screw seized/cross-threaded itself. SAC said it was the first time they had seen that happen and shipped a new one.

If you get the SAC, make sure to take the screws completely out and clean them. I ignored the "sandy" feel of it out of the box and let the Tikka barrel eat.

I also have the Viper vise, but based on my experience with the SAC and specific Tikka bushings, there's no way that would have come off in my Viper.
 
I broke the SAC Bravo Barrel vise pictured above removing a T3X Compact 223 Barrel. Somehow the nut that hold the clamp screw seized/cross-threaded itself. SAC said it was the first time they had seen that happen and shipped a new one.

If you get the SAC, make sure to take the screws completely out and clean them. I ignored the "sandy" feel of it out of the box and let the Tikka barrel eat.

I also have the Viper vise, but based on my experience with the SAC and specific Tikka bushings, there's no way that would have come off in my Viper.
Tikka factory barrels will NOT come off in a Viper barrel vice based on my experience.
 
FWIW I called SAC when I was shopping for vises. They only recommended doing relief cuts prior to taking off factory tikka barrels with theirs. I ended up with a PMA and have had great luck with it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I've used the Standard viper on 6 barrels now. 5 were Tikka. I tend to leave marks on the old tikka barrels, but nothing crazy. I've been happy with the vice for the price of it.

I notice that soaking the barrel threads in a penetraiting oil for a week or so and using a big cheater bar on my wheeler external wrench seems to be the ticket. A few wacks with a hammer and they spin off. I've yet to have to make a relief cut.
 
Tikka factory barrels will NOT come off in a Viper barrel vice based on my experience.
I can tell you it’s Tikka:1, Viper:0 at my house

But for installing/removing prefits at 60-90lb it’s been great
 
I can tell you it’s Tikka:1, Viper:0 at my house

But for installing/removing prefits at 60-90lb it’s been great
It was Tikka: 2 and Viper: 0 with one vice. Since adding the second, it's been all wins, lol.

I have removed other factory barrels with just the one, including a Howa, which is supposed to hard like Tikka, but that was a lie, lol.

For all my other barrel swaps, it is great.
 
Never had in issue with new Tikkas and my SAC. The bushings are the differentiator for me. LRI would be my only other thought
 
Shiny new PMA on my desk waiting for my XLR chassis with 300 WSM / 6.5 PRC to get out of UM jail.
 
Tikka factory barrels will NOT come off in a Viper barrel vice based on my experience.

I have removed two T3 and 4 T3x barrels with my Viper vice. Plus a couple of Remingtons. The only one it wouldn't get off was a Turk Mauser barrel.
For the Tikka's one of the T3x was a D-18 barrel, the rest were Lite profile. I did end up splitting the top plate on mine before the last removal and it went a bit better than previous ones, but none of them were exceptionally hard.

I will probably get a SAC vice as I don't like how the Viper will bind up when it is tightened down.
 
Shiny new PMA on my desk waiting for my XLR chassis with 300 WSM / 6.5 PRC to get out of UM jail.
Isn’t the PMA just a raw aluminum viper?

The width of the viper is what’s giving me pause, as I end up really only torquing one end of the vise so I can stay off the carbon fiber. The PMA appears to be the same design
 
I looked for a vice with enough grunt to take off factory barrels that would be easy for a carpenter’s brain to work with so the wheeler vice with wood blocks seemed perfect since many different sizes could be easily made. Bad idea since with enough pressure to hold factory barrels the oak blocks just crush. Making big aluminum blocks like the second $100 eBay vice solved that problem.
IMG_0641.jpegIMG_0639.jpeg

If I were to get another vice I’d probably get this $100 eBay version.
IMG_0640.jpeg

I was concerned about a single large bolt, but it looks like a single 5/8” gives almost the same clamping force as two 1/2”, it just takes more grunt on the nuts to get to that clamping force.
IMG_0642.jpeg
 
FWIW I called SAC when I was shopping for vises. They only recommended doing relief cuts prior to taking off factory tikka barrels with theirs. I ended up with a PMA and have had great luck with it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've had no issues taking off a few factory barrels with the SAC vise and tikka bushing. I wrap the barrel in drywall tape, tighten it down alot and then smack an external action wrench with a dead blow hammer to shock the action loose.
 
I looked for a vice with enough grunt to take off factory barrels that would be easy for a carpenter’s brain to work with so the wheeler vice with wood blocks seemed perfect since many different sizes could be easily made. Bad idea since with enough pressure to hold factory barrels the oak blocks just crush. Making big aluminum blocks like the second $100 eBay vice solved that problem.
View attachment 888661View attachment 888663

If I were to get another vice I’d probably get this $100 eBay version.
View attachment 888662

I was concerned about a single large bolt, but it looks like a single 5/8” gives almost the same clamping force as two 1/2”, it just takes more grunt on nuts to get to that clamping force.
View attachment 888672

That Ebay one looks like a nice economical alternative to the SAC one and the guy will make custom bushings for $25.
 
That Ebay one looks like a nice economical alternative to the SAC one and the guy will make custom bushings for $25.
I had that one or one like it, but the bushings were straight. It’s a good one.

You really need the contoured bushing for Tikka factory. Do you know if he can make contoured ones?
 
Back
Top