Barrel threading

fly1tie6

FNG
Joined
Apr 30, 2018
Messages
34
Location
South East Ohio
I would like to get the barrel threaded on my new Tikka T3x 300 WM for a muzzle break and a possible suppressor later on. This will be my first time having a gunsmith thread a barrel. Just in case and for my lack of knowledge on the subject what are some things I need to look for or ask them to do? Will the barrel need re-crowned, etc.? Thanks all.
 
Joined
May 24, 2016
Messages
1,773
Doesn't need to be recrowned, but unless you are Doing a radial brake I'd get a 9/16x24 brake in hand and have your smith time it. Muzzlebrakesandmore.com make really really good efficient brakes. Get the 4 port.
 

rayporter

WKR
Joined
Jul 3, 2014
Messages
4,358
Location
arkansas or ohio
it is not a bad idea to have the brake in hand or even let the smith make it.

not sure how many brakes I have [at least 8] but I cant tell that any are better than the next.
 

gbflyer

WKR
Joined
Feb 20, 2017
Messages
1,672
Avoid a radial brake if you do much shooting from prone. You get a face full of dirt every time you pull the trigger. A tactical style brake with ports only on the sides is much better for a sporting rifle that is fired from multiple positions in my experience. I get mine from Harrell’s Precision. They require reaming to the proper bore diameter, easily done when your smith does the fitting.

Your Smith most likely will inspect the crown and recut it if necessary. It’s no big deal to do since the barrel will be set up in the lathe already.
 
Joined
Jan 3, 2019
Messages
86
Location
TX
Just my experience; find a suppressor you want and see if it has a specific brake/ adapter it is designed to work with. Save yourself the $$ and time. Buy once, Cry once, Smile every time you use it.
 

Outhunting

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Feb 25, 2014
Messages
182
As some have mentioned take the suppressor in at the same time. I made the mistake of dropping 5 rifles off with my gunsmith thinking he knew what spec to thread too. He threaded them all too long and had to use a spacer for the can to fit snug and proper. If I wasn't green at the time I would have printed out the specs from Silencerco. I ended up taking all of them to another guy that cut off the bad job, recrowned and threaded to specs. Way better and the machine work was way cleaner.
 
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