Bare Shaft Tuning Question…

[‘Ike’]

Shaft should kick out when shot, right? It hit spot on with my other arrows, but kicked, which I presume is because of no fletching…I left the wrap on, but did not add any other counter wrap as I’ve heard done before… I’ve shot for a long time, but first time I’ve ever played around with this type tuning! Thanks…

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I don't pay much attention to angle of entry (I assume that's what you're referring to) when bareshaft tuning. If point of impact is the same, call it good and move on to broadhead tuning.

 

[‘Ike’]

Perfect, thanks…

 

[DB29]

At what yardage? And how much of a difference in angle of entry?

At shorter distance if it is a drastically different angle of entry I have found there is probably something off.

If it is at 20yds or more or just a small difference in angle then I would move on the BH tuning.

 

[Ho5tile1]

I get bareshafts pretty close through paper with moving my cams then go straight to broad heads


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[Jon_G]

I don't pay much attention to angle of entry (I assume that's what you're referring to) when bareshaft tuning. If point of impact is the same, call it good and move on to broadhead tuning.

What if I was an idiot and I wrapped and fletched my arrows before even shooting them and don't want to strip them? Will broadhead tuning still be effective?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

What if I was an idiot and I wrapped and fletched my arrows before even shooting them and don't want to strip them? Will broadhead tuning still be effective?

Bareshaft tuning is an optional intermediate step. Broadheads hitting with field points is the ultimate goal of tuning for a hunter. If all your arrows are already fletched, I would leave them that way and skip bareshaft tuning altogether.

 

[fishsticks]

What if I was an idiot and I wrapped and fletched my arrows before even shooting them and don't want to strip them? Will broadhead tuning still be effective?

Absolutely. It’s what I do. It’s an unpopular opinion, but bareshaft tuning, while effective can be difficult and may show form flaws more than a tuning problem.

Shoot through paper to be sure you’re close, and move on to broadhead tuning. It’s how you’re going to use the equipment anyway, and it will react the same as a bare shaft but you do have vanes to correct for minor form flaws.

 

[Zac]

What if I was an idiot and I wrapped and fletched my arrows before even shooting them and don't want to strip them? Will broadhead tuning still be effective?

I do the same. I always end up shooting a vane off, and just use that shaft. As far as the angle of impact goes. As long as you’re not shooting into a bag it is usually correct. I always shoot multiple shots to make sure it’s the same. Then move distance out further to get an actual impact change. I have found that even after bare shafting at 50 I still needed to make slight rest changes for broadheads. Also there is a point of no return. At 60 I usually end up chasing my tail. 40 seemed to be the most consistent range.

 

[Dennis]

If bare shafts are kicking out in a foam target I think that is showing you something you can improve. The reason to improve bare shaft flight is to improve flight once you are shooting fletched shafts with broadheads.

I bare shaft tune all of my shafts and then nock tune them as the final step. For me it has lead to improving my form and getting my arrows to fly straight with my shooting faults. Once I get good bare shaft flight at these closer ranges I then test bare shaft flight out to about 50 yards and group test with fletched shafts. I expect to see straight penetration in foam targets with both fletched and bare shafts at all distances. I then find my fixed blade broadheads flight straight.

Good luck,

 

[Ho5tile1]

If you had perfect form everytime then bareshaft would make more sense but why do all that work to get the bareshaft perfect then go shoot a broadhead only for it to not hit with your field point then your moving the rest or cams anyways which will mess up your bareshaft tune. So unless your a form machine get it close in paper then go to broadheads. If your already fletched up just broadhead tune. Not many folks are good enough to get bareshafts, broadheads and field points to hit the same spot. At least not most of the pick your bow up a week before season starts at least.


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[Jbehredt]

It’s June. Dial it alllll the way in. I have to get my bare shaft in line and on point with my fletched shafts. Easy to do in the basement whereas broadheads @ distance requires a bit more effort and a calm day.

 

[Zac]

If you had perfect form everytime then bareshaft would make more sense but why do all that work to get the bareshaft perfect then go shoot a broadhead only for it to not hit with your field point then your moving the rest or cams anyways which will mess up your bareshaft tune. So unless your a form machine get it close in paper then go to broadheads. If your already fletched up just broadhead tune. Not many folks are good enough to get bareshafts, broadheads and field points to hit the same spot. At least not most of the pick your bow up a week before season starts at least.


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This is true. Back when I was using the Sweet Spot I would slightly change the pressure on the wall to see what it would do at 40. You could get wildly different results from shooting a softer, or a harder shot. Anyways Bill from IW says 4 inches off at 40 is fine if your using enough vane.