Bare shaft tuning Prime CT5…help

[Bigtmiller]

So I bought a CT5 last year. I’ve had trouble getting it tuned for broad heads. So I tried bare shaft tuning. The bare shaft always fishtails to the right My BH’s hit about 7 inches to the right of my field points. I’ve moved the rest, had two shops look at it. Nothing. one shop said shimming might help?
should the bare shaft impact straight ? Should broadheads hit the same as field points? Really frustrated with this bow. Any suggestions?

 

[Zac]

If your broadheads are hitting right then you have a weak left tear. The rest really should only be used for very small adjustments. You can shim your cams to the left. You can increase weight on the back of your shaft with something like a lighted nock. You can try cutting your arrows shorter. You can decrease your point weight, and you can turn down the poundage on your bow. Lots of options.

 

[cuttiebrownbow]

They like a grip with top pressure with a bit more vertical grip.

When you place your bow hand on the grip point your thumb straight at the target. Pull the bow back into the top of the of the webbing between your thumb and pointer. Then ‘lock’ your hand down on to the grip. Also, try getting the grip to as close to your life line without crossing it as possible.

I couldn’t tune out a left tear from mine but I had previously like a low grip. Playing with my grip has made it a lot more forgiving.

I have helped a few friends bareshaft tune their primes now and I typically shoot bullet holes with theirs while they can’t get close to one until they use that high, medium wrist with a bit deeper of a grip.


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[406unltd]

I would just Broadhead tune instead of chasing your tail. Once you get them to hit w/field points it’s tuned for great flight as far as I want to shoot them.

 

[Brendan]

Limited ability to shim cams on that bow - i had one. You'd need some custom shims, and thin ones, and would have to ditch the factory delrin plastic shims that are on there. You shouldn't need to, but last resort.

Yes, you can get broadheads to hit with field points, I've never had a bow you can't. Everyone who is suggesting "Broadhead Tune" must have missed the point where you said your BH is hitting right - consistent with bare shaft flight. (Although, I always confirm Bare Shafts with Broadheads too)

Which way are you moving the rest? You should be moving it right, and you can also crank the flex guard out up to 3 full turns from fully cranked down. Where is your rest and centershot now?

Have you confirmed that you don't have fletching contact? A permanently nock right arrow could be cable contact kicking the tail out to the right.

 

[Brendan]

Last comment - what spine arrow? What draw length, and draw weight? Bow model? How much point weight? Want to rule out a spine issue, but I wouldn't start changing anything here.

And, assuming everything else checks out, you can change limb orientations on these bows. All 4 limbs have a slightly different flex pattern / deflection rating, there's a way to orient them in your favor to help cure issues like this. Had to do it on mine. But, you definitely need a press here.

 

[TX_Diver]

Any concern with a bag target deflecting the arrow on entry due to inconsistent density?

Or for that large of an angle would you consider it an obvious arrow/tuning issue?

 

[NaturalJon]

Mine does the exact same thing. But it shoots fletched arrows so well with field points and broadheads, I just gave up on chasing my tail.


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[Brendan]

Any concern with a bag target deflecting the arrow on entry due to inconsistent density?

Or for that large of an angle would you consider it an obvious arrow/tuning issue?

It's not just the bare shaft - he also said his broadheads hit 7" to the right of a field point. That is definitely indicative of an issue.

 

[Zac]

It's not just the bare shaft - he also said his broadheads hit 7" to the right of a field point. That is definitely indicative of an issue.

Agreed, you can't just beat this issue with fletching. I think tinkering with arrow setup is the only option when the bow won't behave, however a shim kit would probably go a long way.

 

[Brendan]

Agreed, you can't just beat this issue with fletching. I think tinkering with arrow setup is the only option when the bow won't behave, however a shim kit would probably go a long way.

Personally, I've never had to tinker with an arrow setup to get a bow to shoot. Unless an arrow is very weak, you can tune a bow to shoot a very wide range of arrows.

For me, tinkering with an arrow is for after the bow is tuned in search of the best groups and forgiveness.

 

[ahlgringo]

Its a pain but with my CT5 I had to swap limb positions. I can't quite recall the deflection positions (do a search on AT) but it cleaned up the flight after I was having a similar issue. For a R handed bow- I think it was highest deflection top L, lowest top R, then middle two for bottom. I chased my tail on that bow for a long time before doing the limb position swap.

 

[Brendan]

Its a pain but with my CT5 I had to swap limb positions. I can't quite recall the deflection positions (do a search on AT) but it cleaned up the flight after I was having a similar issue. For a R handed bow- I think it was highest deflection top L, lowest top R, then middle two for bottom. I chased my tail on that bow for a long time before doing the limb position swap.

Same here, but you don't necessarily pick manufacturer recommendations. You can use deflection to your advantage to induce a little cam lean, similar to yoke tuning.

Yokes would be Loosen right, tighten left to fix the OP's tune issue, therefore lowest deflection (stiffest) top right, highest deflection (weakest) top left, next stiffest lower right, next weakest lower left (If I'm remembering my deflection numbers right) Basically - you're putting the stiffer limbs on the right to tilt the cam to the left through the draw cycle.

 

[Roksliding]

Not saying this is your issue- BUT

I was a prime CT5 owner and fought tuning issues all summer long last summer... would shoot good than wouldn’t I’d bare shaft tune it, it’d shoot good then it wouldn’t... I brought it to the bow shop 3 different times, ALWAYS my fault.. finally one day I noticed my rest was almost hitting my riser, it dawned on me I had been compensating for something all summer (time to get a lifted diesel kidding) I did a real good inspection of the bow, noticed something sounded “loose” in the top cam area, took it back to the bow shop had to take every part off the bow before the shop tech believed me, turned out that one of the top cam bearings was shot...... all summer, always my fault..

if You’ve already taken it in and got told it’s fine I feel your pain....... possible a cam bearing issue??

 

[Bigtmiller]

thanks for all the help guys. I took my bow into a different shop yesterday. After 4 different shops last year, this was the first shop to actually listen. Found out the top cam was leaning bad at rest. One limb seems out of time or flexes really different causing the bottom cam to wobble as i draw. Well that was enough of this bow. I walked out with a new Mathews VXR 31.5. A dozen victory arrows and a better feeling. Today I already have my broadheads grouping with my field points. And it bare shaft tuned perfect. I will be calling prime up on this. I could just sell it but I can’t sell it in good conscience until it’s fixed. I’ll feel a lot better in the elk woods this fall! Prime has a issue. My buddy bought the same bow last year He had the same issues. He went so far as getting it shimmed. Still shot like crap and sounds like a cannon. He got the new Elite today. Already grouping broadheads with fields. Thanks for all the help!

 

[Zac]

thanks for all the help guys. I took my bow into a different shop yesterday. After 4 different shops last year, this was the first shop to actually listen. Found out the top cam was leaning bad at rest. One limb seems out of time or flexes really different causing the bottom cam to wobble as i draw. Well that was enough of this bow. I walked out with a new Mathews VXR 31.5. A dozen victory arrows and a better feeling. Today I already have my broadheads grouping with my field points. And it bare shaft tuned perfect. I will be calling prime up on this. I could just sell it but I can’t sell it in good conscience until it’s fixed. I’ll feel a lot better in the elk woods this fall! Prime has a issue. My buddy bought the same bow last year He had the same issues. He went so far as getting it shimmed. Still shot like crap and sounds like a cannon. He got the new Elite today. Already grouping broadheads with fields. Thanks for all the help!

Wow that escalated quickly. Congrats man I'm shooting a VXR as well.

 

[Roksliding]

thanks for all the help guys. I took my bow into a different shop yesterday. After 4 different shops last year, this was the first shop to actually listen. Found out the top cam was leaning bad at rest. One limb seems out of time or flexes really different causing the bottom cam to wobble as i draw. Well that was enough of this bow. I walked out with a new Mathews VXR 31.5. A dozen victory arrows and a better feeling. Today I already have my broadheads grouping with my field points. And it bare shaft tuned perfect. I will be calling prime up on this. I could just sell it but I can’t sell it in good conscience until it’s fixed. I’ll feel a lot better in the elk woods this fall! Prime has a issue. My buddy bought the same bow last year He had the same issues. He went so far as getting it shimmed. Still shot like crap and sounds like a cannon. He got the new Elite today. Already grouping broadheads with fields. Thanks for all the help!

Ha!!! And here I thought my response was “too left field” It was top cam issues just like mine!! The whole expirence salted me on Prime and that bow shop.. I’m a Matthews owner as well now.