Bare shaft tuning hitting left issues

[gibby97]

So I’m taking a stab at bare shaft tuning and keep getting a left BS approx 3” of my FP. Moved rest left and no change, moved again no change, moved again no change. This is making me wonder if I’m over spinned so i called arrow manufacturer and they said I’m shooting the correct arrow. I also noticed that the tail of the arrow whips right quite a bit and enters the target this way as well. Horizontal and vertical are good at this point.

any suggestions on what to try next?

shooting a revolt x, 70lb limbs maxed out, 30” draw, VAP SS 300 arrows, 28” arrow from end of nok to the start of the 50 grain FOC insert, 100 gr tip.

Any suggestions on what to try next or possible problem?

 

[Zac]

Put twists into top and bottom yokes while subtracting equal turns from left yokes. Set center shot back to 3/16.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Put twists into top and bottom yokes while subtracting equal turns from left yokes. Set center shot back to 3/16.

Does the Revolt have yokes or does it use the Deadlock system to shift the cams left/right?

 

[Billy Goat]

As @Mighty Mouse said your bow should have the deadlock cam. Set your rest back to centershot. Then familiarize yourself with the deadlock system. It allows you to shim the cam without a press, just using Allen wrenches. There's a lock screw and then a screw that actually walks the cam.

Nothing wrong with your arrows specs.

 

[gibby97]

Ill give that a go, i was under the impression that i didn’t use the deadlock system till I’m broadhead tuning which is why i have moved the cams yet.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Ill give that a go, i was under the impression that i didn’t use the deadlock system till I’m broadhead tuning which is why i have moved the cams yet.

Moving the cams can (and should) be done with any type of tuning to correct horizontal issues. Bareshaft hitting left of fletched shaft will also manifest as broadhead hitting left of field point and the solution is the same for both: shift the cams to the right.

 

[sndmn11]

Ill give that a go, i was under the impression that i didn’t use the deadlock system till I’m broadhead tuning which is why i have moved the cams yet.

These are the notes I keep in my phone for playing around with my reckoning so I don't confuse myself.

Counter clockwise moves cam right
Clockwise moves cam left
Move top cam toward fletched when shooting bare shafts
Move bottom cam away from fletched when shooting bare shafts
Move top cam first to adjust lean, then bottom opposite.

Put your rest back to centershot, do not move it again.

Turn each cam all the way to one side and make a witness mark on the screw and housing, then turn it all the way to the other side and count revolutions. There is 2.5 on my Reckoning, I would think yours is the same, but count anyways.

Place both cams in the center of their range.

If you are still having the bare shaft hit left of fletched, move the top cam right by turning the screw counter clockwise. Do just a quarter revolution.

If they are still left, move the bottom cam left by turning clockwise 1/4 revolution.

I have found the most forgiveness with the top cam moved the most if they are not moved the same amount in opposite directions. So, if you did 1/4 turn for each cam in opposite directions and then found the bare ended up on the right side, in other words you over corrected, you would move the bottom cam back towards center 1/8th turn.

Moving in opposite directions is essentially putting lean in, moving in the same direction is essentially moving the centershot. Once you get the amount of lean needed, you can further group tune for forgiveness by moving the cams experimentally in the same direction 1/4 - 1/2 turns each way the same way.

 

[Zac]

Does the Revolt have yokes or does it use the Deadlock system to shift the cams left/right?

Lol my bad

 

[gibby97]

These are the notes I keep in my phone for playing around with my reckoning so I don't confuse myself.

Counter clockwise moves cam right
Clockwise moves cam left
Move top cam toward fletched when shooting bare shafts
Move bottom cam away from fletched when shooting bare shafts
Move top cam first to adjust lean, then bottom opposite.

Put your rest back to centershot, do not move it again.

Turn each cam all the way to one side and make a witness mark on the screw and housing, then turn it all the way to the other side and count revolutions. There is 2.5 on my Reckoning, I would think yours is the same, but count anyways.

Place both cams in the center of their range.

If you are still having the bare shaft hit left of fletched, move the top cam right by turning the screw counter clockwise. Do just a quarter revolution.

If they are still left, move the bottom cam left by turning clockwise 1/4 revolution.

I have found the most forgiveness with the top cam moved the most if they are not moved the same amount in opposite directions. So, if you did 1/4 turn for each cam in opposite directions and then found the bare ended up on the right side, in other words you over corrected, you would move the bottom cam back towards center 1/8th turn.

Moving in opposite directions is essentially putting lean in, moving in the same direction is essentially moving the centershot. Once you get the amount of lean needed, you can further group tune for forgiveness by moving the cams experimentally in the same direction 1/4 - 1/2 turns each way the same way.

good info here, i didn’t realize i can move the top and bottom cams in different directions nor how it affects arrow flight. I did move both to the left and started to bring the BS and FP together.

Bowtechs biggest downfall with the deadlock system is there’s no guidelines as to how to use them or at least I’m not finding them. Somebody needs to make a YouTube video on how to adjust the cams and what those adjustments affect.

 

[sndmn11]

good info here, i didn’t realize i can move the top and bottom cams in different directions nor how it affects arrow flight. I did move both to the left and started to bring the BS and FP together.

Bowtechs biggest downfall with the deadlock system is there’s no guidelines as to how to use them or at least I’m not finding them. Somebody needs to make a YouTube video on how to adjust the cams and what those adjustments affect.

I'd bet a lot of money if you moved the bottom back to it's original spot and left the top "to the left" you'll see a solution.

 

[MattB]

good info here, i didn’t realize i can move the top and bottom cams in different directions nor how it affects arrow flight. I did move both to the left and started to bring the BS and FP together.

Bowtechs biggest downfall with the deadlock system is there’s no guidelines as to how to use them or at least I’m not finding them. Somebody needs to make a YouTube video on how to adjust the cams and what those adjustments affect.

Go to Youtube and type "Bowtech deadlock adjustment" into the search function. You will find 10 videos in the ~15 seconds that will take you.

 

[houghtonic]

I'd bet a lot of money if you moved the bottom back to it's original spot and left the top "to the left" you'll see a solution.

This is my assessment also. A nock right (which also means bareshaft left, broadhead left) means moves cams right. The top cam has more effect than bottom cam, but both have the same effect….just less magnitude. I would generally move both to the right in your situation, to get real close. I would then pull out my largest surface area broadhead on a calm day and move cams again to complete tuning. Regarding moving cams…if all I need is a tiny adjustment, I keep in mind that the bottom cam has slightly less effect per amount travelled and microtune with the bottom cam.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[gibby97]

I'd bet a lot of money if you moved the bottom back to it's original spot and left the top "to the left" you'll see a solution.

as an update, you was spot on. Thank you.

 

[sndmn11]

Yes, I think people get stuck moving the cams equally in the same direction and forget about about cam lean.