Arrow testing - Pick the best

[Vandal 44]

I would go with the Axis, cut some off the back and front of the arrow, square both ends. Up front I would go with the 50gr brass HIT, for BH 125gr just because there are so many more options. Everyone has an opinion, I think you are going about it the right way.

 

[wildwilderness]

X2^^ I do exactly the same thing with axis. I cut off the shaft from both ends to get the right length. Any .002 difference is usually at the ends of the shaft so you can save the $ and make match grade.

I also use the 50gr HIT insert with 125gr tip. I have used blazer vanes. This set up has been my most accurate and forgiving (with fixed BH) and really noticed better penetration with 500gr arrow vs a 400gr.

 

[5MilesBack]

X2^^ I do exactly the same thing with axis. I cut off the shaft from both ends to get the right length. Any .002 difference is usually at the ends of the shaft so you can save the $ and make match grade.

Ya, but if you cut the match grade from each end you can have "ultra+ match grade".

Most arrow manufacturers measure their straightness in the center 28" of the shaft. So for me, with my draw length and 30" carbon to carbon finished length, I try to buy the straightest tightest tolerance shafts I can find, and cut whatever I can from both ends.

 

[92xj]

As a follow up to this. I decided on the shortest Axis I could cut with 150 gr head. Been shooting 30-50 a day and went to a Carter just b cuz release. This set up is shooting the best groups I have ever shot since getting into bow hunting. Still getting 270fps with the 458.9 gr arrow. Spine seems to be good, no odd arrow flight.

 

[DavePwns]

As a follow up to this. I decided on the shortest Axis I could cut with 150 gr head. Been shooting 30-50 a day and went to a Carter just b cuz release. This set up is shooting the best groups I have ever shot since getting into bow hunting. Still getting 270fps with the 458.9 gr arrow. Spine seems to be good, no odd arrow flight.

Nice! do you have pics comparing groupings?

 

[92xj]

Nice! do you have pics comparing groupings?

I apologize for the late response, I never saw your message.
I do not have any photos of group shot before the new arrow testing and release.
When I saw your message, I ran outside and shot 4 shots from 120 yards to photo the group.
just kidding, it was 30 yards.

 

[young7.3]

Marked for later. Some good info in here


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[92xj]

There is some good info and I hope this thread does help others.

As a follow-up, I have completely thrown away all my testing done in this thread
Right after finishing up I came across a smoking deal on a new bow and bought it.
I am now shooting a Centergy 71.5lbs with my 28.5" draw.
I am still shooting the 150gr head so I decided to go with the Axis 300s and 4 fletch max stealths cut to 27" carbon to carbon.
With this setup my arrow weighs 500.7grs and are traveling at 272.4fps.

As a side note, if anyone wants all the arrows used in the thread to test and play around with, I will make someone a good deal on them all.

 

[Gerard Marcaurele]

I was playing around with a kinetic energy calculator and the jump from 150 up front to 175 up front is when the advantages of speed and energy switch. With a tick more speed and the 150 head I have more energy than a tick less speed and 175 great up front.

Blackovis has the axis (non match grade) on sale right now and still accepts the rokslide discount on top of that sale price, so I ordered a dozen last night. I hope I didn't shoot myself in the foot by ordering a dozen that I didn't test but the numbers are the same minus the straightness tolerance. I don't believe my shooting is precise enough to tell the difference in .002. We shall see and I hope I didn't waste 100 bucks if there is that big of a difference.

Not trying to be rude, but don’t buy into the kinetic energy hooplah. Yes, KE means that it packs a punch, but you aren’t trying to shock the animal, you’re trying to blow through it. For that, you need something that maintains it’s energy. To measure the ability to maintain forward motion upon impact, you can use momentum. Speed plays a smaller role in this than does mass. You’ll notice that a heavier arrow will have more momentum at a slower speed than a lighter arrow at a higher speed (this is a generalization, because you’re assuming they are coming out of the same bow). Momentum kills when it comes to archery.

 

[225nontypical]

I just did a podcast on arrow building. we cover a ton of stuff, and some of what I say might not be popular and its not a one size fits all type thing but here is a link if you are interest.
On Point With Garrett Weaver Podcast - Episode 06 | Arrow Building With Chris Dunlap | Free Listening on Podbean App

 

[225nontypical]

I will do a very quick write up on my arrow building process take from it what you will. My way is not the only way and yes you can shoot just fine with what I would call the more standard method. But her goes
1. I spin all arrows before they are cut and I cut them to remove wobble. That means I cut the nock end sometimes, the insert end sometime and both some times. If the wobble is on the nock end I cut that end first in small portions until it is gone of have my arrow the desired length.
2. I square both ends of the arrow, and insert them
3. Install any lighted nocks or wraps (sometimes I nock tune then wrap and then check again If I want to make sure a certain part of my wrap in up). Then nock tune them (My bows are all bare shaft tuned before I nock tune my arrows)
4. fletch them and off I go