Arrow setup

truthcrab

FNG
Joined
Aug 13, 2024
Messages
21
Hi,

I have a 27.5”dl and shoot 63lbs my arrows currently are 398gr taw 12% foc with 100gr broadheads. I use g5 deadmeat for mule and white tail and g5 montecs for elk(never shot one haha) g5 is readily available at my local shop and I’ve had good experiences with them. Is my setup too light? I can use 125gr broadheads but they are harder to find where I am in Canada.
 
Yes to light in my opinion especially for elk. The lighter the setup the higher loss rate in my experience. That doesn’t mean light arrows won’t work sometimes, but I prefer to stack the deck in my favor and decrease my wounding loss rate. To each his own however. Good luck
 
One of the best things you can do to affect good penetration is keep the bow in tune to ensure straight arrow flight. Do not settle for anything less than perfect, the nock must follow directly behind the broadhead so all energy is focused directly down the shaft. I initially tune with bare shafts to save the target, then finish with broadheads. Field points and broadheads must hit together to all ranges I plan to hunt at.

Small diameter cut broadheads, like the Montec, will assist in good penetration. Sharpen the blades so they can shave hair off your forearm. If you cannot get them sharp enough due to design, switch heads. Possibly a two blade head like Magnus Stinger/Hornet, or replaceable blade head with a sharp chisel tip like a GR Micro Hades, Muzzy Trocar, Slick Trick Standard, etc.

Choose only high percentage shots within your maximum distance.

As a relatively short draw archer myself I am aware of limitations I may have and adjust my equipment accordingly. I have never had an issue with arrow weights in the low 400 gr. range following the above recommendations.

I will add, that I adjust arrow weight to get the velocity range I want. I like 270-280 fps for hunting. I am usually in the 405-435 gr. arrow weight range to achieve that. This allows for easy tuning with fixed blade broadheads, a flatter trajectory for shooting in timber, and some range forgiveness. A good compromise for me.
 
One of the best things you can do to affect good penetration is keep the bow in tune to ensure straight arrow flight. Do not settle for anything less than perfect, the nock must follow directly behind the broadhead so all energy is focused directly down the shaft. I initially tune with bare shafts to save the target, then finish with broadheads. Field points and broadheads must hit together to all ranges I plan to hunt at.

Small diameter cut broadheads, like the Montec, will assist in good penetration. Sharpen the blades so they can shave hair off your forearm. If you cannot get them sharp enough due to design, switch heads. Possibly a two blade head like Magnus Stinger/Hornet, or replaceable blade head with a sharp chisel tip like a GR Micro Hades, Muzzy Trocar, Slick Trick Standard, etc.

Choose only high percentage shots within your maximum distance.

As a relatively short draw archer myself I am aware of limitations I may have and adjust my equipment accordingly. I have never had an issue with arrow weights in the low 400 gr. range following the above recommendations.

I will add, that I adjust arrow weight to get the velocity range I want. I like 270-280 fps for hunting. I am usually in the 405-435 gr. arrow weight range to achieve that. This allows for easy tuning with fixed blade broadheads, a flatter trajectory for shooting in timber, and some range forgiveness. A good compromise for me.
Great points!!! I’m actually quite proud and happy with my bows tune and my abilities as I’m self taught using the magic of you tube. Fixed mechanicals and field points hit together(I’ve ruined some arrows for sure) well passed my effected range. I’ve always been a get closer hunter. Even with rifle hunting most of my bucks have been 40-150 yards. Most of my bow hunting is tree stand hunting 15-30 yards at white tail. I don’t have the funds to be building and testing many different setups. Every year I elk hunt couple close calls but haven’t made it happen. I’d like an arrow that I can pull out of my quiver and kill anything. I don’t mind messing with my bow and sight during off season. But I don’t want to be messing with tune and sites during hunting season unless I have to.
 
If it shoots good then shoot it. I sent a 395 gr 2” mechanical through a whitetail so fast it buried a couple inches into the log behind it. The trend I’ve seen over the last few years has been people going lighter and faster. Not the other way around.
People shoot through elk with fixed blades every year shooting a lot less draw weight than you’re shooting
 
Many years ago, I would just get a properly spined GT Hunter XT arrow, throw a 100gr Rocket Steel Head (mechanical) on it and go hunting with my 60# Mathews. Nothing special. I killed a lot of deer with them and all were complete pass throughs and all but one died within sight. When arrow weight became more common I finally had the arrows weighed...390gr TAW. FOC was not a thing yet. I have no idea how fast it was going. The bow was tuned though.

The only two things I would change in your set up would be to go a 125gr fixed broadhead. Personally for me I would be shooting a scalpel-sharp QAD Exodus or Grim Reaper Micro Hades Pro. It ups the arrow weight a bit and increases FOC a touch. The most important thing is to tune the bow for perfect arrow flight AND do not hit the scapula of the elk if at all possible.
 
Hi,

I have a 27.5”dl and shoot 63lbs my arrows currently are 398gr taw 12% foc with 100gr broadheads. I use g5 deadmeat for mule and white tail and g5 montecs for elk(never shot one haha) g5 is readily available at my local shop and I’ve had good experiences with them. Is my setup too light? I can use 125gr broadheads but they are harder to find where I am in Canada.
You will be fine, it won’t bounce off. I shot several elk with a similar arrow setup when I was younger and it was never a thing, they died just the same
 
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