Arrow Saw Recommendations

I think a metal fiber type blade would still wobble too much. I use a diamond edge blade from Harbor Fright.
You might be right. A 7 1/2" blade would be best. I used to run a 7.5 in my tablesaw to precisely cut some .050" steel using some jigs. It worked excellent.

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I use my 10" Delta cabinet saw with a 90 tooth carbide blade. Have a dust collector on the saw. Push the marked shaft into the blade and rotate the shaft 360* as I cut partially thru the shaft wall before completing the cut. Keeps the carbon from potentially splintering.

Practice on a piece of junk carbon shaft, or out beyond your cut mark on a new shaft....easy to do if you have woodworking equipment.
 
I use my 10" Delta cabinet saw with a 90 tooth carbide blade. Have a dust collector on the saw. Push the marked shaft into the blade and rotate the shaft 360* as I cut partially thru the shaft wall before completing the cut. Keeps the carbon from potentially splintering.

Practice on a piece of junk carbon shaft, or out beyond your cut mark on a new shaft....easy to do if you have woodworking equipment.
I like it. I feel like you could make a jig to support the shaft, at least the back half, to prevent tear out. I have a lot of junk shafts to test on. Even masking tape around the shaft would probably go a long ways.

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The shaft is well supported by the saw table to the left of the blade. I push the shaft through with the miter gage (obviously at 90*) that supports the shaft. If you make the perimeter cut around the circumference first then complete the saw cut I don't get splintering.

I do believe wrapping the shaft with masking or painter's tape would also be a valid method of preventing splintering. I use it on gun stocks that I shorten for recoil pad installation.
 
I like it. I feel like you could make a jig to support the shaft, at least the back half, to prevent tear out. I have a lot of junk shafts to test on. Even masking tape around the shaft would probably go a long ways.

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Woodbow, maybe you meant a means of supporting the end of the shaft being cut-off to the right of the saw blade? If so, you are likely on the something that would work.....attaching a piece of flat wood to the miter gage that is taller than your saw blade height and much taller than the arrow diameter. and extends a few inches right of the blade...then pushing the arrow shaft through in a continuous cut. Bet it would work...give it a try.

All my shafts are made up right now so I won't bother until I need new arrows. And I often end up cutting carbon from both ends to get the straightest shaft possible.
 
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Woodbow, maybe you meant a means of supporting the end of the shaft being cut-off to the right of the saw blade? If so, you are likely on the something that would work.....attaching a piece of flat wood to the miter gage that is taller than your saw blade height and much taller than the arrow diameter. and extends a few inches right of the blade...then pushing the arrow shaft through in a continuous cut. Bet it would work...give it a try.

All my shafts are made up right now so I won't bother until I need new arrows. And I often end up cutting carbon from both ends to get the straightest shaft possible.
I have a very smooth and true vintage delta radial arm saw. I used the arbor adapter off an angle grinder to fit it with a 4.5" cut off wheel. It has a guard but it is removed in picture. I made a V groove jig with an adjustable stop. It works like a champ. Thanks for getting my wheels spinning. Dont mind the mess.
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I bought an X-Spot mini for around $160 after 10% off. For as often as I cut, and I only cut for me and my son, presently, it is fine. It was priced right. Because you can break it down, it stores in less space.
 
anyone know if you can get just the dust collector attachment for the Weston arrow saw? Got a smoking deal on one but want to avoid carbon dust going everywhere
 
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