Elk/ mule deer Arrow building advise

stan_wa

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Aug 6, 2020
Messages
278
Location
Washington
I’m totally new to archery, hunted this year with loaner gear and I’m hooked and now building own arrow and tuning my own bow. Sorry for so many questions in one thread but I wanted people to understand all my plan to help me get and do the right thing.

What do think of my planned set up?
What gear or tools should I change ?

Do I need a lca ez press or can I get something cheaper?

I already have bowtech prodigy 343 ibo , 70 lbs , 30.5 “ draw no kisser or peep tube, Easton axis 4 mm 250 spine ( was advised spine per Easton calculation)

What I plan to buy

Arrow build
;
Iron will 160 grain Snyder core heads( and matching field points)
25 grain iron will snuder core hit
25 grain iron will collar
Kimsha hot melt
Aae and blazer vanes
Nockternal nocks
arrow wraps
This would put me at 540 grains, 210 up front , 16% foc and based on the ibo calculators 280 fps which was my target speed. I don’t see the need to have a bunch of different broad heads it seems simpler to get one and Learn it very well, so im not too worried about being tied to the Snyder core system.

Tools ;
Arizona easy fletch left helical( bare shaft at 5 yards my arrow turns left )
Arrow saw ( recommendations?)
Arrow square ( recommendations?)
Arrow spinner (recommendations?)
Broad head sharpener ( recommendations?)
Foam target for tunning / practice like a Reinhardt
Mineral oil for broad heads
Bow press ( if I really need it , dang there expensive and seems a lot of new bows don’t need them ie , bowtech deadlock ?)
 

trailblazer75

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jan 29, 2022
Messages
266
You building that setup is essentially a prescription for the right stuff. 280 FPS and 7-10 grains per pound of draw weight will be the right stuff. The AAE will steer those broadheads great. Honestly, I use the same fletching with an Arizona easy jig with max left helical. Probably $40 on amazon and works GREAT.
 

JasonWi

WKR
Joined
Jul 3, 2012
Messages
1,125
Location
Salem, Oregon
Here is what I’ve got and have used for years with good success. Certainly more options, but these are affordable and hold up.

G5 ASD very simple squaring device
Pine Ridge arrow inspector for spinning
Apple archery pro arrow saw
LCA ez-green press.
Vise is OMP versa cradle wide limb.

These last two items are very expensive, and it’s a big investment that will be needed at some point to fully be setup for all home tuning.

Don’t forget to add a paper tuner, easy to build and a must.

Targets I prefer the foam ones over bags.
 

4rcgoat

WKR
Joined
Dec 12, 2015
Messages
1,194
Location
wyoming
First thing I would purchase is the press,learn how to take your bow down,put it back together and tune it.
A decent bow vise would be the next,along with a draw board(you can make one very easy).
I order bare shafrs from South Shore already cut to length, inserts installed,spine indexed and ready to fletch.
Watch your step,this rabbit hole is deep.
 
Joined
May 6, 2018
Messages
9,135
Location
Shenandoah Valley
Personally I don't see a benefit to the micro shafts, just a lot of unnecessary headaches. Do as you wish tho.


I use an old easton saw, but a saw isn't complicated so long as you can cut to a consistent length. Lots of guys make a home made setup from a chop saw or a Dremel, but I'd recommend just buying one. Any commercially available one should suit, LCA being cream of the crop

I like the newest arrow square from g5, but firenock makes a really nice one too, and it doubles as an arrow spinner.

I just mainly use a little pine ridge arrow spinner, it tells me what I need to know. I have a Ram Spine tester, it can also measure runout and concentricity, but I don't use it much anymore.

I'd get a good press, LCA is kinda the standard. I have a bow time, but use LCAs a bunch. I don't know of a bow you don't really need a press for. An Elite or Bowtech you can adjust cam lean without a press, but still need one to put in a peep, change out any String or Cables.

Mostly use a Bitz for fletching, tho more and more I have been using a Bohning Tower jig.

I use the Hamskea 3rd axis tool a lot, also an OMP bow vise, but you can get by without that stuff. A draw board is pretty necessary, can buy or assemble.

Bag target for field points, foam target for broadheads. Rinehart seems to hold up pretty well, but you will just go through broadhead targets, especially with micro shafts. I bareshaft tune to save wear on targets. Check with broadheads, but don't shoot them all that much. If I want to check myself I shoot bareshafts, they are less forgiving than broadheads on my form. I also carry all kinds of different broadheads because I like to try things, so I personally wouldn't want to be stuck with a certain head.
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2019
Messages
2,347
Location
Missouri
If funding were a barrier to getting a press, I would build less expensive arrows and put the savings toward a press. Those would no doubt be great arrows, but you'll have $60 per arrow just in Iron Will components. 4mm shafts are pricey too. I would rather shoot plain jane standard diameter arrows and be able to tune my bow at home than trendy micros and be dependent on a bow shop. A 5mm/.204" arrow could be a good compromise if you're intent on shooting something smaller than a standard 6.5mm/.245" shaft.

FYI bows with press-less horizontal tuning features (e.g., Bowtech Deadlock, Elite SET) still require a press for vertical tuning (adjusting cam timing).
 
Top