Arrow help!

[Joshuajosh]

Hey I just ordered a samick sage with 30 lb limbs to start out with ... looking to be able to hunt with it next year and plan on moving to 45 lbs when I get my form down ....I have heard of people tuning arrows but I’m not sure what that rly is because of how new I am to this ... could you guys recommend a ballpark arrow spine and tip weight for a 30 lb bow and then for a 45 ? I know there are a decent bit of variables I just don’t know where to start

 

[Rob5589]

I'm new to it myself and the common recommendation has been a tuning kit from 3 Rivers Archery.

As a side note, it is far more involved than a compound for sure. Don't be discouraged when you look for hours and still have no idea lol

 

[Joshuajosh]

I'm new to it myself and the common recommendation has been a tuning kit from 3 Rivers Archery.

As a side note, it is far more involved than a compound for sure. Don't be discouraged when you look for hours and still have no idea lol

How important is it to have the arrows properly tuned ? Is it possible at all to shoot somewhat accurately with proper form and practice without doing that? I assume not but am just curious .... I’ll have to look into the test kit

 

[Rob5589]

I'm certainly not the one to ask but, for myself, I'm not worried at all about arrow flight. I am using my .300 spine arrows from my compound. Right now it is all about form, arrow flight is of no concern yet. Hopefully others with far more knowledge will chime in.

 

[qwerksc]

400 or 500 spine, leave em long, maybe cut em when you get the new bow.

 

[Joshuajosh]

400 or 500 spine, leave em long, maybe cut em when you get the new bow.

If I go 500 does a 125 g head sound alright ?

 

[qwerksc]

If I go 500 does a 125 g head sound alright ?

Buy a test kit of points 100gr to 300gr. Take 3 different weight heads, say 125, 145, 175 put two each on six arrows, shoot em a lot for a week, you’ll start to feel em, start to see if they are week or stiff, play with it, if yer form is shit, watch tons of vids, find a couple guys who shoot that will help ya out. You really gotta want it. My friend asked how come my arrows fly so good, I just said I shot hundreds of arrows a day for a couple weeks to make em do that.
Remember to have fun and spend a lot of time and money on it.

 

[qwerksc]

Buy an ILF bow, Tradtech or a cd wf19 or something, get a few sets of limbs, beat the crap out of it, one and done.

 

[MCR]

For a 30 pound bow you are going to need a softer spine than 500's. The 500's would be fine out of the 45# bow. Go with something like a 700 spine out of that 30# bow. You might possibly get away with a 600 spine. Do you have a local archery shop you could go to. Do not spend much money on those arrows. Go over to stickbow.com and make a post and you will get tons of guys with lots of experience on what spine for that bow. I have never shot less than 40 pounds so I cannot get you exactly there but what I said will be close.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

At this point in your traditional archery career, the arrows don't really matter. You need reps behind the bow focusing on form...preferably with an in-person instructor, although there are some good online resources out there if no coaching is available locally. There's no point in trying to tune an arrow until you develop consistent form.

That said, I'd recommend starting with full length 500 spine arrows with 100-150 gr field points. Once you've developed a consistent shot at the draw weight you intend to hunt with, you can start trimming the arrows down and adjusting point weight to get them tuned. If you want a modern arrow with a traditional appearance, Black Eagle Vintage, Easton Carbon Legacy, and Gold Tip Traditional are some carbon options printed with a wood grain graphic.

 

[inyago]

You need arrows matched to your bow.. every bow and that means every bow has a spine that allows you to get the best out of it.. Honestly do you want to learn with arrows that are all over the place..
500 spine on 30 lbs is way to stiff..
Get shooting the stick bow, get a good video on shooting stickbows and coach, at least for 6 one hour lessons..
Live it breath it and it will come, all the best..

 

[oldgoat]

If I go 500 does a 125 g head sound alright ?

That riser is cut well past center, depending on your draw length that combination might work, being cut past center requires a stiffer arrow, might have to add point weight, might not. Helped a kid match arrows to a 50# sage yesterday down at rmsgear and he ended up with a full length .340 with 200 up front, but that's totally draw length dependent. Until you start adding broadheads to the mix you just have to be kind of close to being tuned, right now your form is going to be all over the place and close to tune is all your going to get anyway. I would get on y horn with rmsgear or the like and order an assortment pack of different weight field tips to tune with.

 

[Newtosavage]

30 lb arrows from a samick sage need to be in the 700-800 spine range if you're using 125 grain points. For your 45 lb limbs you'll want to be in the 600 spine range or perhaps 500 if you leave the arrows long and use heavier points.

I always recommend Byron Ferguson's "become the arrow" book. It's small, concise, easy to follow and gives solid advice on how to set up and "tune" your bow and yourself.

Whatever you do, don't handicap yourself by insisting on learning to shoot "instinctively" like I did for 15 years. Learn an aiming method first. You can always make that more "instinctive" as time goes by (which is what Byron describes in his book).

 

[Joshuajosh]

30 lb arrows from a samick sage need to be in the 700-800 spine range if you're using 125 grain points. For your 45 lb limbs you'll want to be in the 600 spine range or perhaps 500 if you leave the arrows long and use heavier points.

I always recommend Byron Ferguson's "become the arrow" book. It's small, concise, easy to follow and gives solid advice on how to set up and "tune" your bow and yourself.

Whatever you do, don't handicap yourself by insisting on learning to shoot "instinctively" like I did for 15 years. Learn an aiming method first. You can always make that more "instinctive" as time goes by (which is what Byron describes in his book).

That’s rly helpful ... I’ll read that, I was watching a YouTube video of a guy who did the same thing and witched to using his arrow to aim and he became much more consistent I’ll keep that in mind

 

[Newtosavage]

That’s rly helpful ... I’ll read that, I was watching a YouTube video of a guy who did the same thing and witched to using his arrow to aim and he became much more consistent I’ll keep that in mind

Everyone wants to be a mind-bending traditional ninja with a bow, but you can't start there. If you do, you'll always be a streaky shooter that struggles to know what's wrong when you're not shooting well, because you don't have a system to rely on. People who start out instinctive also tend to suffer more from target anxiety when the critter shows up in front of them - again because they don't have a system to focus on. The "burn a hole" "hunker and squat" crowd will insist they shoot "better on game" than they do on paper, and maybe they do, but I would certainly hope so based on how they shoot on paper. They also commonly give up a solid 2-3" of power stroke at the good end (the back end where more energy is stored) because they short-draw and snap shoot.

I'm saying this from experience because I used to be "that guy" - for a solid 15 years until an archery mentor finally straightened me out.

What Byron explains is solid form and a reliable aiming method that eventually becomes so ingrained that you perform most of it subconsciously. That's what he means by "BECOME" the arrow. You don't start out there, but with enough attention and time, you can become the arrow and not have to think about the steps anymore. I've shot with Byron before. Twice in fact. He has very good form and by no means is hitting his targets with "instinctive" shooting. He has a plan for every shot.

 

[dlee56]

Don't worry about it to much as a beginner. Form will effect your arrow flight significantly so get something cheap while you learn form, maybe a longer cut half dozes used off rokslide classifieds. Then when you move up to hunting weight develop a good arrow that tunes to your bow and you.

 

[Joshuajosh]

Don't worry about it to much as a beginner. Form will effect your arrow flight significantly so get something cheap while you learn form, maybe a longer cut half dozes used off rokslide classifieds. Then when you move up to hunting weight develop a good arrow that tunes to your bow and you.

Sounds good that’s pretty much what I’m planning on doing

 

[GLB]

500 spine should carry you through the poundage range that you mentioned. At the lower lbs leave them long and as you go up in lbs you can shorten/change component weight to achieve good arrow flight.

 

[Joshuajosh]

500 spine should carry you through the poundage range that you mentioned. At the lower lbs leave them long and as you go up in lbs you can shorten/change component weight to achieve good arrow flight.

Alright perfect !

 

[ScottinPA]

The bow is 30lb at 28" draw but what is your draw length? That plays a big part in it.
Google Stu Miller's spine calculator with instructions to get you close to arrow setup then bareshaft tune from there. That'll take a lot of the guess work out of it. Yes, its way more involved than a compound.

If you can't find it, send me your email and I'll get it and bareshaft instructions to you.