Arrow finish

[Btaylor]

In the link I posted the epoxy coating instructions have layers of polyacrylic between layers of epoxy. They do 13 coats total with 12 separate steps. I bet it would take a full week minimum just for the coating.

Your method sounds way more reasonable.

Yeah sorry I didnt read the linked instructions. I'm not doing that either lol. 6 coats the way I described will seal and protect a wood shaft to the point it is about impervious to everything except breaking it.

 

[Novashooter]

These have been shot into that target all summer.


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I don't know how I missed this picture. Pretty crazy how close our arrows came out as far as style. Those have serious grain like my Surewood shafts. You are also using Marco nocks it looks like. Even your cresting is pretty much the same as mine. Same turkey feathers, although yours look shield cut, mine are parabolic.

 

[Beendare]

These have been shot into that target all summer.


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Those look awesome.

I am shooting the Accmos carbon shafts which have a better finish than the Easton carbons….but they are soooo shiny. I dust them with flat paint to knock the shininess off.

 

[Btaylor]

I don't know how I missed this picture. Pretty crazy how close our arrows came out as far as style. Those have serious grain like my Surewood shafts. You are also using Marco nocks it looks like. Even your cresting is pretty much the same as mine. Same turkey feathers, although yours look shield cut, mine are parabolic.

They are surewood doug fir, burned feathers, not true shield but close, and not sure on the nocks. Got a giant bag full of them years ago. Cresting is satin nickle and hammered copper rattle can, just taped off and sprayed. Stain is minwax esspresso. Epoxy finish.

 

[Btaylor]

Those look awesome.

I am shooting the Accmos carbon shafts which have a better finish than the Easton carbons….but they are soooo shiny. I dust them with flat paint to knock the shininess off.

Thanks

 

[Novashooter]

They are surewood doug fir, burned feathers, not true shield but close, and not sure on the nocks. Got a giant bag full of them years ago. Cresting is satin nickle and hammered copper rattle can, just taped off and sprayed. Stain is minwax esspresso. Epoxy finish.

They definitely look like Marco nocks to me. After having issues with the Bohning classic nocks that seems to be the standard for everything for some reason, I bought a small pack of every glue on nock I could find. Bohning T, AAE, Marco, Pro nock, and probably more. Why Bohning is as popular as it is I can't figure out why. More than once I've broken them just handling them. They are super thin, and made of the most brittle plastic. Pro nocks are what Bohning nocks want to be. They have the same design where the string never really snaps on. The difference is pro nocks have a stronger body, and the plastic isn't brittle at all. I don't remember much about the AAE. Marco nocks seem like the obvious choice. When you handle a Bohning and Marco side by side you will have that moment where you are amazed how much stronger the Marco is. The design of them also snaps on your string, which seems a much better way to go to me. Maybe snapping on the string isn't a good thing being the string angle changes during the draw and firing, but it doesn't seem to be the case in the real world. I'd rather my string stay all the way in the throat, vs Bohning/pro nock which often has a tiny little gap at full draw.

Yeah, I really got into some nitty-gritty arrow development this summer. Seasons here and deer are running around. Its time to make it happen.

 

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

Mounted broadheads last night. No target burn at all.


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Back up a sec... what are those broadheads on the right? Valkyrie doesn't make a glue on option do they?

 

[Btaylor]

They definitely look like Marco nocks to me. After having issues with the Bohning classic nocks that seems to be the standard for everything for some reason, I bought a small pack of every glue on nock I could find. Bohning T, AAE, Marco, Pro nock, and probably more. Why Bohning is as popular as it is I can't figure out why. More than once I've broken them just handling them. They are super thin, and made of the most brittle plastic. Pro nocks are what Bohning nocks want to be. They have the same design where the string never really snaps on. The difference is pro nocks have a stronger body, and the plastic isn't brittle at all. I don't remember much about the AAE. Marco nocks seem like the obvious choice. When you handle a Bohning and Marco side by side you will have that moment where you are amazed how much stronger the Marco is. The design of them also snaps on your string, which seems a much better way to go to me. Maybe snapping on the string isn't a good thing being the string angle changes during the draw and firing, but it doesn't seem to be the case in the real world. I'd rather my string stay all the way in the throat, vs Bohning/pro nock which often has a tiny little gap at full draw.

Yeah, I really got into some nitty-gritty arrow development this summer. Seasons here and deer are running around. Its time to make it happen.

These nocks are as you described, much stronger than the Bohning classic. They do snap on but are not tight if you will. Some of that is how I built the string though so they fit the way I wanted them too. I just know they have been a much better nock for me than the Bohning.

 

[Btaylor]

Back up a sec... what are those broadheads on the right? Valkyrie doesn't make a glue on option do they?

No they are not Valkyrie. They are from a first run of prototypes I had done. The front end isnt right, how I wanted it but it is fairly close. The Mfg backed out of completing the project so I am sorta in limbo now with it since I dont know how to design in CAD. I have not had great luck in finding anyone that could and would make the changes needed in CAD so I can then try to find another company to machine them. I have a guy working on it now, well he started on it before his elk hunt and hopefully will pick back up when he gets back. The head kills fine like it is. But it will be, imo, a much better head with the changes to the front to end to better match the way it was drawn.

 

[Novashooter]

Finally got my first ever arrow finished. Not much to look at, has minor mistakes, but it will work. Probably won't go with such dark stain on the back part next time. Won't bother with my cresting jig either. I can do a better job with tape. Supposedly that paint will shine with UV light, so hopefully that works out.

 

[Btaylor]

Minor mistakes make 'em custom.

 

[Ddog]

Nice work, gentlemen. I'll have to try that epoxy finish some time, looks great, Btaylor. Do you crest over that and just leave it be, or shoot a coat of water-base poly over it to keep it from smearing down the shaft (if it happens to hit the side plate on a torqued shot)? Dig those heads too.

 

[Wrench]

No they are not Valkyrie. They are from a first run of prototypes I had done. The front end isnt right, how I wanted it but it is fairly close. The Mfg backed out of completing the project so I am sorta in limbo now with it since I dont know how to design in CAD. I have not had great luck in finding anyone that could and would make the changes needed in CAD so I can then try to find another company to machine them. I have a guy working on it now, well he started on it before his elk hunt and hopefully will pick back up when he gets back. The head kills fine like it is. But it will be, imo, a much better head with the changes to the front to end to better match the way it was drawn.

Call around and ask anyone with a water jet if they can CAM one for you. This uses your drawing or prototype and creates the cut. I had some parts cut and the tolerance is sub .001". You can ask them to hold whatever tolerance you want. Closer is slower which costs more time.

What steel are you using? I assume youre going to weld the ferrule to the blade like simmons does?

 

[Btaylor]

Call around and ask anyone with a water jet if they can CAM one for you. This uses your drawing or prototype and creates the cut. I had some parts cut and the tolerance is sub .001". You can ask them to hold whatever tolerance you want. Closer is slower which costs more time.

What steel are you using? I assume youre going to weld the ferrule to the blade like simmons does?

No these were machined.