Arrow build

[Aliconda]

Hey, so I am new to archery and just picked up a bow (Mathews prima 50#). I am trying to figure out what arrow set up I need. Hoping to hunt whitetail and elk. I am a 27.5dl and 50#. I am thinking about going with a micro arrow since I have a lighter draw weight and using the iron will bh Snyder core system (new this spring). Per the charts I need a 400 spine arrow but was wondering if I should go with a 340 spine and increase the weight in the front for a better foc....also trying to figure out how much total arrow weight I should try to aim for. Thanks!

 

[coloradodrifter]

450-500 grain arrow with cut on contact head try and keep your shots under 40 yards and good shot placement will get the job done. IMO don’t worry about foc that much. Focus on good form and a good tuned bow/arrow set up. Have fun.

 

[Brizzle]

I’d shoot a 400 Spartan with no extra weight and a 100g point, should be about 370 g with descent speed still. I hunted that set up last season with the same draw length @ 57lbs and got a pass through on every deer i shot, you’ll only gain a little over 2.5 lbs of KE while losing over 50fps trying to shoot a 500g arrow. Not worth it. Definitely shoot fixed, I’d go slick trick or tooth of the arrow. 4 fletch will help with broad head flight. I’m not a fan of outsiders, they’re a pain to remove from targets, micros are great for field archery when using a micro glued in target point but in necessary for hunting and they don’t always spin straight after you glue on the outsert.

 

[Brendan]

IMO 450-500 Grain arrow is not the right recommendation at that draw length and weight, I'd be targeting closer to 400 grains which would give you a speed of ~230 fps. More important than arrow weight is getting the spine right.

The ideal spine for you will be a 450 with 175 grains of weight up front. Definitely not a 340. 400 is even stiff.

I haven't run Victory arrows, but you can get the VAP in a 450 which is a micro diameter arrow. If you can't find a 450 you like, go with a 400 spine and run more weight up front, an arrow cut longer, at the expense of being slower (A 29" shaft and 175-200 grains total up front would do it)

 

[three5x5s]

If you want micro's, Black Eagle X-Impacts 350s, 7.4 gpi. Iron Will collar #G will fit them ( I think). You can go with 400s at 6.7gpi but no IW collars that small.
Easton A/C Pro Comp 380s 8.3 gpi. IW #F collars will fit these also. 420s at 7.8 gpi but no IW collars.
Easton Axis 4mm Long Range 400s 7.4 gpi w/ IW collar #G.
These shafts all have low gpi and give you room to add heavier vanes/inserts and broadheads to your liking. I like my arrows to be 370-420 grain, but thats just me. With a 27dl @ 50#s you will lose alot of speed with heavy arrows and have a large pin drop.

 

[Brizzle]

This is a carnivore 400 with a 42g brass insert instead of the 14g aluminum one, also using a standard 100g point. Input in the specs for your bow. You’d be at 7gpp which is the max I’d go. At least with this setup you could still practice out to 60 yards. Any heavier and you may run out of pins or clearance if you’re using a slider

 

[Brendan]

Don't know if I have bow specs exactly right, but this is a 400 spine arrow cut to 29", with 175 grains up front. Stiff side of ideal. I would NOT be running a 340.

 

[Brizzle]

The calculated ibo @ 30” is 346. They list the speed at 27.5 on the website. Definitely wouldn’t run a 340... unless you were shooting 15-20lbs higher

 

[Aliconda]

Don't know if I have bow specs exactly right, but this is a 400 spine arrow cut to 29", with 175 grains up front. Stiff side of ideal. I would NOT be running a 340.

Bow specs look good. Are there any major disadvantage to going with a longer arrow?? Also am I right in thinking a micro arrow is the way to go?

 

[Brendan]

Bow specs look good. Are there any major disadvantage to going with a longer arrow?? Also am I right in thinking a micro arrow is the way to go?

Only disadvantage to a longer arrow is more weight and more wind drift at longer range. But, most important is to pick the arrow specs to get your spine right.

In your case, a longer arrow "weakens" the rated spine of the arrow which helps you if you run a 400 spine. With a 450 spine arrow you wouldn't need to run the arrow as long, but there are fewer choices there, not everyone makes a 450.

If you were to run a 500 spine arrow, you'd need to run less tip weight, and run the arrow much shorter, but I wouldn't recommend that for hunting, especially Elk. Would make a better 3D arrow though.

 

[cured_ham]

Hey, so I am new to archery and just picked up a bow (Mathews prima 50#). I am trying to figure out what arrow set up I need. Hoping to hunt whitetail and elk. I am a 27.5dl and 50#. I am thinking about going with a micro arrow since I have a lighter draw weight and using the iron will bh Snyder core system (new this spring). Per the charts I need a 400 spine arrow but was wondering if I should go with a 340 spine and increase the weight in the front for a better foc....also trying to figure out how much total arrow weight I should try to aim for. Thanks!

My girlfriend has the same specs as you. Her TAW is 420ish grains and she uses Iron Will heads.

I would also cut the arrow as short as possible. A 400 spine cut to 26 or 26.5 inches should be good. Stiffer will not hurt you but does result in a heavier arrows due to increased GPI.

IMO a good head is gonna get you best bang for your buck in a low poundage situation. You can decrease the momentum needed to pass through easier than you can increase available momentum. A .204 or .166 with quality components and the best heads you can afford should get the job done.

 

[Brendan]

I would also cut the arrow as short as possible. A 400 spine cut to 26 or 26.5 inches should be good. Stiffer will not hurt you but does result in a heavier arrows due to increased GPI.

Disagree with the cut short comment. You're better off with an ideal spine than too stiff, and you can always cut shorter. I did run into one setup where I had trouble getting an arrow to tune being over the top stiff (And I have access to my own press, draw board, etc.) Also, with the Snyder-Core setup extending further back into the shaft that is making the arrow behave even stiffer than rated.

If you were to ask me what I'd pick:

Gold Tip Kinetic Pierce Platinum, 400 Spine, 29" Carbon-to-Carbon. (ID = .166", OD = .229", so this should work with an Iron Will "G" collar and the Snyder-Core components, but confirm this before buying)

I would pick the single bevel broadhead if available, otherwise Iron will solid. I would be targeting total weight of 175-200 grains between broadhead, insert, collar. Specs I gave you above were for 175.

I'd run 3 or 4 fletch AAE max stealth. Probably a 3 fletch helical.

If you were to ever go up in poundage, or run into a weak spine, you could cut the arrow shorter from the rear if needed, and re-fletch.

That's an expensive arrow setup, but easy to spend someone else's money

 

[Brizzle]

Your ibo is too low in your specs... that setup up is under spined

 

[Aliconda]

Disagree with the cut short comment. You're better off with an ideal spine than too stiff, and you can always cut shorter. I did run into one setup where I had trouble getting an arrow to tune being over the top stiff (And I have access to my own press, draw board, etc.) Also, with the Snyder-Core setup extending further back into the shaft that is making the arrow behave even stiffer than rated.

If you were to ask me what I'd pick:

Gold Tip Kinetic Pierce Platinum, 400 Spine, 29" Carbon-to-Carbon. (ID = .166", OD = .229", so this should work with an Iron Will "G" collar and the Snyder-Core components, but confirm this before buying)

I would pick the single bevel broadhead if available, otherwise Iron will solid. I would be targeting total weight of 175-200 grains between broadhead, insert, collar. Specs I gave you above were for 175.

I'd run 3 or 4 fletch AAE max stealth. Probably a 3 fletch helical.

If you were to ever go up in poundage, or run into a weak spine, you could cut the arrow shorter from the rear if needed, and re-fletch.

That's an expensive arrow setup, but easy to spend someone else's money

I was actually looking at these gold tip arrows and really liked them. I will definitely have to look into this set up!

 

[Brendan]

Your ibo is too low in your specs... that setup up is under spined

Not weak spined. Even at a 347 IBO which I doubt the bow would actually perform to.

Anyone recommending a 340 is crazy. I can get that to tune out of my bow and I shoot 73# and 29" draw.

 

[cured_ham]

My girlfriend has shot that exact bow with a 400 spine cut to 26.5 with 175 up front. It is bareshafted to 30. If it will tune run it. I prefer my weight up front as I can splurge on components. I would rather have another 20 grains worth of FPS or 20 grains worth of head material than extra shafting. Just my opinion.

Also with 420 ish grains youll be 250 ish FPS.

Correction: 200 up front

 

[Samdemarais]

Hey, so I am new to archery and just picked up a bow (Mathews prima 50#). I am trying to figure out what arrow set up I need. Hoping to hunt whitetail and elk. I am a 27.5dl and 50#. I am thinking about going with a micro arrow since I have a lighter draw weight and using the iron will bh Snyder core system (new this spring). Per the charts I need a 400 spine arrow but was wondering if I should go with a 340 spine and increase the weight in the front for a better foc....also trying to figure out how much total arrow weight I should try to aim for. Thanks!

Just call Bill when you order your iron will components and heads. Probably the best source to go through since your planning to use his products.

 

[Brizzle]

 

[Brendan]

View attachment 269797

Did you miss where I ran the numbers at 347 and it showed ideal spine?

Plus, when you actually test bows, you 99% of the time prove the manufacturer is lying to you. I run all my setups through a chrono, and I'd bet money the bow wouldn't perform to a 346 when finished.

400 spine at 26.5" is stiff side of ideal for that setup, even with 200 grains up front and a 347 IBO. Might work fine, but I have run into scenarios where too stiff caused a problem, and you can always go shorter / stiffer.

 

[cured_ham]

Did you miss where I ran the numbers at 347 and it showed ideal spine?

Plus, when you actually test bows, you 99% of the time prove the manufacturer is lying to you. I run all my setups through a chrono, and I'd bet money the bow wouldn't perform to a 346 when finished.

400 spine at 26.5" is stiff for that setup. Might work fine, but I have run into scenarios where too stiff caused a problem, and you can always go shorter.

Absolutely. I am 99% we both agree that tuning is 100% the most important factor.

I err on the side of shorter arrows becuase I can (usually) tune around it and they work better for my goals. Just what works for me. Personal preference and everyone should test their stuff. If it won't tune do not shoot it.