Arrow build advice

[yctom]

Building my first arrow setup, any input is appreciated.

Mathews v3x 75# 31” draw

Looking to build RIP TKO 250 spine cut to 30”, 100 gr iron will hit, 25 gr iw collar, 125 gr BH, aae stealth vanes.

 

[ElGuapo]

Tune with Bare shaft, then fletch…. Completely changed my consistency with broadheads.

 

[5MilesBack]

I shoot the RIP TKO Elite 250's cut to 30" with 75gr HIT's, no collars, and 125gr heads but at almost 33" draw. They come in right at 500gr. You'd have an extra 50gr on the front. They'll probably work fine.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Looks like a good arrow to me. OT2Go/qSpine says you're a little weak of "optimal," but I bet it will still work fine.

Bow inputs: 336 fps IBO, 75# DW, 31" DL, 33" ATA, 6.5" BH, 80% LO
Arrow inputs: 30" C2C, 125 gr head, 100 gr insert, 25 gr collar, 9 gr nock, 3 vanes at 9 gr ea

 

[Tx_archer_6]

Building my first arrow setup, any input is appreciated.

Mathews v3x 75# 31” draw

Looking to build RIP TKO 250 spine cut to 30”, 100 gr iron will hit, 25 gr iw collar, 125 gr BH, aae stealth vanes.

Sounds like a great build. I like to weigh all my components and then mix and match to try and get the overall weight between all arrows closer. Out of a dozen, I’m happy to get 10 arrows that are plus or minus a half grain. For whatever reason seems like there’s always one or two arrows that come in heavy or light. Of course the more components you add, the more difficult this becomes. I even use to weigh the vanes but got really tired at how time consuming it is lol. As long at they are within a couple grains of each other you’ll be fine. Typically, 3 grains is a 1FPS difference.

 

[PurpleDriver]

Man, you guys must all be giants with these 31”+ DLs!

I”m just jealous, your arrow build seems fine, not a lot of spine options for you guys with mega DLs.

 

[Bump79]

Looks like a great arrow build. Personally, I like to stay on the stiff side of things. If it was me I'd shave off some weight up front by going with a 10 grain collar or a 75 gr insert.

 

[Bump79]

Last year I bought some Firenock carbon tubes for .166 shafts and used them with Black Eagle Outserts. I was really impressed with what that carbon tube does to spread out the load. Even 7075 T6 Aluminum sucks but I'd do it again with hardened steel or Ti.

They make a really sweet halfout for .204 that integrates with their Carbon Inner Tube.

AeroInsert-H for 0.202" - 0.207" ID Arrows (12)

The AIH20* is an AeroInsert designed for archers who want to equip their 0.202" - 0.204" ID arrows with the AeroConcept System for self-concentricity, reliability, and harmonic dampening.

firenock.com

This would integrate into your. 204 shaft for a little less weight & stiffen up your arrow. Probably save some $$$$ too

 

[Zac]

Ridiculous amount of unnecessary weight on the front. I wouldn't go over 175 for point weight.

 

[Christopher.Reed]

For what it’s worth: I shoot a 80lb with 31.5” DL and the VAP TKO 235’s seem to be money with 200g IW BH and titanium HIT/Collar (225g total weight up front).


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[VaBruiser]

Looks like a good arrow to me. OT2Go/qSpine says you're a little weak of "optimal," but I bet it will still work fine.

Bow inputs: 336 fps IBO, 75# DW, 31" DL, 33" ATA, 6.5" BH, 80% LO
Arrow inputs: 30" C2C, 125 gr head, 100 gr insert, 25 gr collar, 9 gr nock, 3 vanes at 9 gr ea
View attachment 550094

Why can’t I find this app in the Apple App Store? Searching OT2GO. Am I doing something wrong?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Why can’t I find this app in the Apple App Store? Searching OT2GO. Am I doing something wrong?

Can't help you, I have an Android. You can get the desktop version here: https://www.pinwheelsoftware.com/index.html

 

[Christopher.Reed]

Why can’t I find this app in the Apple App Store? Searching OT2GO. Am I doing something wrong?

As I understand it, they stopped updating the app and where removed. I still have my app but any newer arrows (Sirius Gemini as an example) aren’t listed.


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[SloppyJ]

I run this same setup but with ethics halfsert stainless inserts. My final weight is 498gr with a 125gr broadhead. They're pretty legit.

 

[TheViking]

Ridiculous amount of unnecessary weight on the front. I wouldn't go over 175 for point weight.

It’s not just that easy.

For someone like me who is an inbetweener 250/300 spine- to run a 250 spine I generally have to run it long and have a lot of weight out front to help make it not way too stiff.

I’m not an FOC freak, but I’ve never had any issues running like 16-17%. Arrows fly like darts.

 

[Zac]

It’s not just that easy.

For someone like me who is an inbetweener 250/300 spine- to run a 250 spine I generally have to run it long and have a lot of weight out front to help make it not way too stiff.

I’m not an FOC freak, but I’ve never had any issues running like 16-17%. Arrows fly like darts.

There isn't such a thing as too stiff.

 

[TheViking]

There isn't such a thing as too stiff.

Yes and no.

A super stiff arrow lacks forgiveness.

I definitely lean on the stiff side, but shooting a piece of rebar isn’t conducive either.

If there isn’t such a thing as too stiff, then why isn’t there a universal spine that’s stiff as f*ck?

 

[Tilzbow]

Yes and no.

A super stiff arrow lacks forgiveness.

I definitely lean on the stiff side, but shooting a piece of rebar isn’t conducive either.

If there isn’t such a thing as too stiff, then why isn’t there a universal spine that’s stiff as f*ck?

Because us old guys shot aluminum arrows with flipper rests and spine was critical back then and some guys can’t change with the times. Easton still hadn’t updated their tuning chart as of a few years ago to compensate for drop away rests and carbon arrows so many still go by that even though it’s out of date. Plus their are still lots of guys shooting recurves and longbows and compounds with rest types were too much spine is as bad as not enough.

 

[Christopher.Reed]

There isn't such a thing as too stiff.

No offense intended but…

This is patently false and horrible advice for any aspiring archer; proper spine is a critical component for improved arrow flight.

For my personal arrow builds I prefer a slightly weak spine paired with a HIT system. The resulting arrows are far more accurate and predictable than my shooting abilities. With an over-spined arrow, my arrow flight is very erratic and requires compensation through tuning that’s to far out of center shot for my tastes.

Archery is a very individual sport. While that nuance is part of the fun, categorical statements are very difficult to apply and can lead to weeks of frustration and expensive mistakes.


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[Zac]

No offense intended but…

This is patently false and horrible advice for any aspiring archer; proper spine is a critical component for improved arrow flight.

For my personal arrow builds I prefer a slightly weak spine paired with a HIT system. The resulting arrows are far more accurate and predictable than my shooting abilities. With an over-spined arrow, my arrow flight is very erratic and requires compensation through tuning that’s to far out of center shot for my tastes.

Archery is a very individual sport. While that nuance is part of the fun, categorical statements are very difficult to apply and can lead to weeks of frustration and expensive mistakes.


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Gillingham, Douglas, Dorge, Snyder, T Bone, and Moss would all disagree with you. Probably many others as well. I agree that it is too stiff if the rest has to be moved way out of center, yet I have never witnessed that myself. I can shoot a 250 spine 28 inch shaft with 120 up front out of my 60 lb TRX just fine at 13/16. I can do the same with a 300 spine, makes no difference. That's with a 29.5 inch draw. The spine you can get away with only has to do with nock travel. Less nock travel translates into a lighter spine tolerance. The spine tolerance you are referencing only lives in the recurve world where risers are not cut past center. If you try to explain the physics behind your "proper spine" statements you will find yourself speechless.