Any Mechanics? 2001 Tundra Brake Issues

[sneaky]

And for goodness sake, don't act like an idiot and get the police called on you for working on it

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[Billy Goat]

Is it slow cranking, or normal speed, just not starting?


Several sensors could be out if whack, yet still not causing a code. Mass air or crank position being top of the list.

Not likely a fuel pump, but it could be a slight possibility that fuel is draining back to tank. If you turn the ignition to on, just before crank position, let it sit for a second or 2 and it seems to help the situation, then that becomes a more likely scenario, but I think it's pretty unlikely.

Might be a ecm problem, a friend was having issues with a Tacoma, chased all kinds of things and finally figured out it was a bad computer board. Finding a replacement was the issue.

 

[CorbLand]

And for goodness sake, don't act like an idiot and get the police called on you for working on it

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Need to find a way to get rid of Karen ass neighbors. That shit still baffles the hell out of me.

 

[CorbLand]

Is it slow cranking, or normal speed, just not starting?


Several sensors could be out if whack, yet still not causing a code. Mass air or crank position being top of the list.

Not likely a fuel pump, but it could be a slight possibility that fuel is draining back to tank. If you turn the ignition to on, just before crank position, let it sit for a second or 2 and it seems to help the situation, then that becomes a more likely scenario, but I think it's pretty unlikely.

Might be a ecm problem, a friend was having issues with a Tacoma, chased all kinds of things and finally figured out it was a bad computer board. Finding a replacement was the issue.

Normal, just has to turn over a couple times before it starts and usually starts, then dies. Takes two or three times to get it started and sometimes have to pump the gas for a second to keep it going. When it does this, you can smell it burning so I would assume its getting enough fuel.

Cleaned the mass air a couple weeks ago and it looked fine when I checked it.

I have turned the key and let it sit to turn the pump on since it started and it doesnt seem to help. I would think that if it was the pump it would want to die when its idling.

 

[Billy Goat]

Normal, just has to turn over a couple times before it starts and usually starts, then dies. Takes two or three times to get it started and sometimes have to pump the gas for a second to keep it going. When it does this, you can smell it burning so I would assume its getting enough fuel.

Cleaned the mass air a couple weeks ago and it looked fine when I checked it.

I have turned the keep and let it sit to turn the pump on since it started and it doesnt seem to help. I would think that if it was the pump it would want to die when its idling.

When a fuel pump dies, it does just that. Now wiring can be intermittent. But something as simple as an o-ring can let air in and back drain a fuel system.

How did you clean the mass air? They are very sensitive. I'm assuming this problem was intermittent before you cleaned it, but if it started after its very likely it got damaged.

 

[CorbLand]

When a fuel pump dies, it does just that. Now wiring can be intermittent. But something as simple as an o-ring can let air in and back drain a fuel system.

How did you clean the mass air? They are very sensitive. I'm assuming this problem was intermittent before you cleaned it, but if it started after its very likely it got damaged.

Cleaned it with the cleaner you can find at auto stores. Just a typical spray can with cleaner in it. I tried cleaning it after it did it the first two times, so I would doubt cleaning it did anything but who knows.

My experience with fuel pumps is that they just go when they go.

 

[Billy Goat]

Cleaned it with the cleaner you can find at auto stores. Just a typical spay can with cleaner in it. I tried cleaning it after it did it the first two times, so I would doubt cleaning it did anything but who knows.

My experience with fuel pumps is that they just go when they go.

Probably going to need to data log it, see if you can find what isn't adding up.

Or just keep driving it, that's what I do. At some inconvenient time I find what the problem was when it completely craps out.

 

[CorbLand]

Probably going to need to data log it, see if you can find what isn't adding up.

Or just keep driving it, that's what I do. At some inconvenient time I find what the problem was when it completely craps out.

Figured I would drive it for a couple weeks and take it back to the mechanic if it keeps happening. I was hoping that someone on here had the same problem. I have been meaning to get a reader, so I will get one ordered to see if it will throw a code.

Most of my driving is done in town but it does suck to not have a vehicle you trust to go place that wouldn't have cell service.

 

[billoo349]

That sounds very similar starting conditions as when the fuel pressure regulator went out in my gmc. That was a common issue on that model of Sierra though, not sure how similar the tundra would be. Fuel filter would also be worth changing if it's been a while

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[BRTreedogs]

Going to pop this back up.

This POS is now having issues starting. It will start but it intermittently has a hard time. It will turn over and lug to a start, and sometimes die. It takes 2-3 times trying to get it started. Once its started, it runs fine, no issues at all with it dying or sputtering. Took it to a mechanic but they said they couldnt get it to replicate the issue and it started fine when I picked up but did it again a couple days later. Started just fine this morning.

Any ideas? I was thinking fuel pump but seems odd it would drive fine once it is started. Crankshaft sensor?

The fuel pump went out in my quad and it acted exactly like this, but would sometimes shudder when I gased it.
Contacted my quad mechanic buddy and he said fuel pump. I didn't believe him it still produced 30psi.
Well it was the pump 100% also besides that almost all of the in tank electric pumps have a plastic screen that clips on them.
Well that thing had rotted to pieces and I think was also clogging the pickup.

So you may have to clean out the tank as well.

 

[black dawg]

Bump the starter 2 or 3 times before you actually crank on it. If it starts normally replace the fuel pump.

Fuel pumps "fail" in many different ways, and this is one of them.

 

[CorbLand]

Figured I would follow back up. New development, it hasn’t done it in a bit and the only thing that has changed is the weather. It’s gotten cold again. We had a couple warm days, it did it one day and I got the idea to crack the gas cap to see if that would help. I drove to work in the morning, cracked the cap and came back 8 hours later. It started without a hitch but it wasn’t as warm as the day that it did it. Haven’t had a warm day since.

I did get a scanner and it hasn’t thrown any codes.

 

[CorbLand]

Going to pop this back up with another question for you guys that are way smarter than me.

Threw a code the other day for my coolant thermostat opening before the engine is up to temp. Did the standard check out the coolant system before buying parts and noticed that the guy before me put the wrong coolant in. It’s green, not red.

I am going to have to drain at least the radiator to fix the thermostat so my question is, do I try to completely flush the green stuff out and put in the red or do I just roll with the green?

I have owned the pickup for 12 years and it’s had that green stuff in there for at least that long so part of me says what can it hurt at this point…and I know that you can’t mix the green and red so I am concerned I won’t get all the green out and cause bigger issues.

Advice?

 

[BRTreedogs]

You have already left green in it for over twice as long as green is supposedly good for.

Don't think I'd worry about it now.

 

[TaperPin]

Sounds like a classic bad coolant temp sensor - that caused hard starting and now the same sensor is getting bad enough to trip that code. A rather simple code reader that also displays live data will show the value. However, some live data is manipulated by the engine computer - a slightly more advanced unit will also show OBD data that’s not manipulated, which is more reliable.

If it shows the wrong temp when cold it might be the sensor or it might be bad contact with the connection plug. If there is any corrosion at all in the plug theres a good chance the sensor is fine and the pins in the connector just need to be cleaned.

If you don’t have any kind of live data source it’s possible to check the sensor with multimeter, but you’ll need data for your vehicle showing what voltage is coming out of the sensor at different temps. There is probably three wires and they all need to be checked. The ground shouldn’t have any voltage drop to the battery terminal, the 5v voltage going into the sensor should be 5v in addition to the output voltage.

Of course the two issues you’ve had could be separate problems, but the two are very suspicious. Don’t replace a good factory sensor with aftermarket - if you go with a cheaper aftermarket sensor don’t get rid of the factory one in case it doesn’t solve the problem, in which case the factory sensor should go back in. Aftermarket sensors are the quickest way to cause all sorts of problems - factory parts bought from the dealer are by far the best choice since many counterfeit parts are out there that look like factory parts.

 

[CorbLand]

Sounds like a classic bad coolant temp sensor - that caused hard starting and now the same sensor is getting bad enough to trip that code. A rather simple code reader that also displays live data will show the value. However, some live data is manipulated by the engine computer - a slightly more advanced unit will also show OBD data that’s not manipulated, which is more reliable.

If it shows the wrong temp when cold it might be the sensor or it might be bad contact with the connection plug. If there is any corrosion at all in the plug theres a good chance the sensor is fine and the pins in the connector just need to be cleaned.

If you don’t have any kind of live data source it’s possible to check the sensor with multimeter, but you’ll need data for your vehicle showing what voltage is coming out of the sensor at different temps. There is probably three wires and they all need to be checked. The ground shouldn’t have any voltage drop to the battery terminal, the 5v voltage going into the sensor should be 5v in addition to the output voltage.

Of course the two issues you’ve had could be separate problems, but the two are very suspicious. Don’t replace a good factory sensor with aftermarket - if you go with a cheaper aftermarket sensor don’t get rid of the factory one in case it doesn’t solve the problem, in which case the factory sensor should go back in. Aftermarket sensors are the quickest way to cause all sorts of problems - factory parts bought from the dealer are by far the best choice since many counterfeit parts are out there that look like factory parts.

The starting issue went away with just continued driving and it hasnt done it in months, close to a year now.

The code it is throwing says thermostat, P0128. I will double check the live temp when I get back in it today. Most of the research I did said that a thermostat is what fixed the issues for others.

 

[TaperPin]

Sounds like you’re headed in the right direction

 

[CorbLand]

Sounds like you’re headed in the right direction

Sensor would be easier to replace though...so that would be nice.

Is there another sensor that tells you the live temp of the engine? According to the gauge on the dash she is running cool.

 

[7mm-08]

Do youself a favor and pose this question to 1st Gen Tundras forum. There is a guy that goes by the handle "Shifty" who, I swear, is a subject matter expert on ALL things dealing with these trucks.

 

[TaperPin]

Sensor would be easier to replace though...so that would be nice.

Is there another sensor that tells you the live temp of the engine? According to the gauge on the dash she is running cool.

If your thermostat is stuck open it might be reading ok. I’d guess the computer uses the same sensor to tell the gauge what to display. I wouldnt replace it unless the old one is proven to be bad.