Any Mechanics? 2001 Tundra Brake Issues

[deerlick]

You can’t adjust the valve specifically but you can make sure that it’s compensating for the weight in your bed correctly. If I am not mistaken it’s a couple nuts and bolt to do it. All I am going to is make sure that it is working correctly.


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Dont mess with that. That is brake bias for loaded or unloaded. Replace your warped drums or rotors and be done with it.

 

[flyinsquirel]

So what was it?

 

[CorbLand]

So what was it?

Haven’t had time to work on it. My buddy that has the shop works for a medical supply company and I work in the education industry. We have both been swamped with work and can’t align schedules. Hopefully, sometime this week.


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[boom]

Drive it in reverse (safely, like in an empty parking lot) has get on the brakes. Same thing? Is the rear locking up, and you are feeling wheel hop?

n you’re on the brakes? Or if you are more aggressive?

 

[CorbLand]

Not the drums. Still does it. A little pulsing in the steering wheel and you can feel the back hopping and shuttering in the seats.


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[MadeInTheRain]

Not the drums. Still does it. A little pulsing in the steering wheel and you can feel the back hopping and shuttering in the seats.


I have a 2002 Toyota Tacoma. I started having this exact problem a year ago. Rear end shakes heavily when braking from higher speeds. To the point where my doors will rattle against the jams if i have to slow down quick enough. I have now replaced front calipers, brake lines, flushed fluid, front rotors, front pads, rear drums, rear shoes and to top it off.. new tires. I am still chasing down the cause of this. My next step is to replace bushings in the rear suspension components. Ill keep this updated if I happen to find a solution.

 

[CorbLand]

Mine has front calipers and pads that are 18 months old. Front end that is 2 years old. Brand new shoes less than two months ago. Drums yesterday. I think at this point I am going to take it to a mechanic and let them deal with it. Probably will be cheaper to pay someone then to chase problems.

 

[MadeInTheRain]

That's not a bad idea. I had taken mine to Les Schwab to see if they could diagnose the problem and were unsuccessful. I did most of the work on mine myself at a buddy's suspension/brake specialty shop who had thought everything I listed above would surely fix it.. May do the same and take it to a different mechanic who has dealt with these issues before.

 

[CorbLand]

Well as an update...it was the rotors. Weirdest thing I have seen to have it shake the seats and back end and be rotors but it’s dead steady now. Got to fix a hub that is on its way out and hopefully that’s the last thing for a bit.


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[Marbles]

My Tacoma had a similar issue, though it got progressively worse and started showing up at certain speeds even without breaking. I replaced the U-joints and it fixed it.

I think the change in load to the drive shaft is what made it show up during breaking at first.

Edit: never mind, I see you fixed it.

 

[Broomd]

Suspected that it was the rotors from the first posting....(I also have an '01.)

Replaced them with slotted if you still can.

 

[CorbLand]

Suspected that it was the rotors from the first posting....(I also have an '01.)

Replaced them with slotted if you still can.

Looked at the slotted but they wanted double for them and where I didnt know if this was the problem, I went a cheaper route. If they do it again, I will go slotted but I got at least 8 years out of the ones that were on there.

 

[ODB]

Well as an update...it was the rotors. Weirdest thing I have seen to have it shake the seats and back end and be rotors but it’s dead steady now. Got to fix a hub that is on its way out and hopefully that’s the last thing for a bit.


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Shoulda just listened to me back in March ;-)

Glad you got it sorted out. Now, go tighten your valve cover bolts. They are probably loose too...

 

[CorbLand]

Shoulda just listened to me back in March ;-)

Glad you got it sorted out. Now, go tighten your valve cover bolts. They are probably loose too...

You live and you learn. HAHA

 

[justin davis]

Sounds like warped rotors

 

[Laelkhunter]

I was going to suggest replacing the brake pads when you replace the drums (on the rear). If you put new brake pads on then ran the truck with bad drums, I think it would affect the new pads (change their shape/contour), so replacing the pads AND the drums at the same time will have new mating surfaces. Putting new drums on old pads is counter-productive.

 

[CorbLand]

I was going to suggest replacing the brake pads when you replace the drums (on the rear). If you put new brake pads on then ran the truck with bad drums, I think it would affect the new pads (change their shape/contour), so replacing the pads AND the drums at the same time will have new mating surfaces. Putting new drums on old pads is counter-productive.

Replaced the shoes and kept the old drums on for less than 50 miles, then put new drums on. By the time I am done, this damn pickup is going to be brand new.

 

[MadeInTheRain]

That's not a bad idea. I had taken mine to Les Schwab to see if they could diagnose the problem and were unsuccessful. I did most of the work on mine myself at a buddy's suspension/brake specialty shop who had thought everything I listed above would surely fix it.. May do the same and take it to a different mechanic who has dealt with these issues before.

Well over due for this update. After replacing my whole rear drum assembly it did not fix the issues. I next replaced both front calipers/pads/rotors along with the brake lines and flushed the system. BOOM problem solved. My theory is that one of my front calipers was seized and was causing the flow of brake fluid to be sent more to the rear causing the rear drums to over engage. Could have been that I replaced almost every brake part on the system.

 

[CorbLand]

Going to pop this back up.

This POS is now having issues starting. It will start but it intermittently has a hard time. It will turn over and lug to a start, and sometimes die. It takes 2-3 times trying to get it started. Once its started, it runs fine, no issues at all with it dying or sputtering. Took it to a mechanic but they said they couldnt get it to replicate the issue and it started fine when I picked up but did it again a couple days later. Started just fine this morning.

Any ideas? I was thinking fuel pump but seems odd it would drive fine once it is started. Crankshaft sensor?

 

[sneaky]

Cheap scan tool and keep it in the truck. Plug it in before you start it and catch the code. Sounds like a sensor.

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