Any Mauser experts?

Hschweers

Lil-Rokslider
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Just received this Mauser on trade. Chambered in 6.5x55 Swedish, but I think it might be done aftermarket as there are no factory barrel stamps. I’ve included pics of any and all stamping and writing I could find on the gun. Anyone out here know exactly what this is? The whole Mauser world has me very confused.
 

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2muchhp

WKR
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Can't help much with those markings. I can't remember ever seeing "Berlin"on a mauser.
 

tater

WKR
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Pull the action from the stock, and the front scope base.
Proofs will be either at the top or underside of the action ring (which looks to be a large ring M98).
 
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Hschweers

Lil-Rokslider
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Does pulling the action require a gunsmith? Or at least to do properly? I’ve never done it, just assumed it was complicated
 

tater

WKR
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Remove the bolt.
Remove floorplate/spring (push up into round hole ahead of trigger guard and slide floor plate rearward) it was meant to be done with a live round in the field, but use a screwdriver with a wrap of tape over end. Watch when spring and follower pop out.
Remove screw at rear of trigger guard and second screw at front of trigger guard.
Gently wiggle action upwards out of stock (sometimes wood shrinks to action over time and makes it a little fussy to remove at first.

I'm really curious, as the proof on the top of the bolt looks to be a Russian crossed hammer mark, meaning it may have been captured.
 
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Hschweers

Lil-Rokslider
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Remove the bolt.
Remove floorplate/spring (push up into round hole ahead of trigger guard and slide floor plate rearward) it was meant to be done with a live round in the field, but use a screwdriver with a wrap of tape over end. Watch when spring and follower pop out.
Remove screw at rear of trigger guard and second screw at front of trigger guard.
Gently wiggle action upwards out of stock (sometimes wood shrinks to action over time and makes it a little fussy to remove at first.

I'm really curious, as the proof on the top of the bolt looks to be a Russian crossed hammer mark, meaning it may have been captured.
That was easy!

I don’t see any additional markings, except these two at the trigger I didn’t notice before. Where should I see something?
 

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tater

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There should be two proofs on the flat behind the front lug (where the front screw goes). It almost looks like they were filled with bedding compound. The only other location is under the front scope base.
Interesting that the floorplate and bolt numbers match but the receiver is not numbered. It is a military action due to the cut out for the stripper clip on the receiver top.

It has nothing to indicate it was issued during WW2 (the Reich LOVED putting Waffenstamps on everything whether they made it or captured it), so i would guess it was made 1922-1935 and exported to another country for use.

I am NOT an expert by any stretch so i have taken a couple of liberal leaps of logic, but i have had my hands on a lot of different Mausers over the years.

Still my favourite action.
 
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Hschweers

Lil-Rokslider
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There should be two proofs on the flat behind the front lug (where the front screw goes). It almost looks like they were filled with bedding compound. The only other location is under the front scope base.
Interesting that the floorplate and bolt numbers match but the receiver is not numbered. It is a military action due to the cut out for the stripper clip on the receiver top.

It has nothing to indicate it was issued during WW2 (the Reich LOVED putting Waffenstamps on everything whether they made it or captured it), so i would guess it was made 1922-1935 and exported to another country for use.

I am NOT an expert by any stretch so i have taken a couple of liberal leaps of logic, but i have had my hands on a lot of different Mausers over the years.

Still my favourite action.
thank you so much for the insight! You’re saying there could be markings under there?
 

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Maki35

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Do you have any pics of the full rifle/ stock?
How do you know it's chambered for 6.5x55? is it marked 6.5x55
I see the German marking on the receiver. Vtg German mausers were chambered in 8mm.
 

tater

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There should be receiver codes stamped under that front base (one two digit series and one four digit series below).

It would be cool to know when that 6.5 Swede barrel was spun onto it. That was not a common North American use for old milsurp 98's. If that rifle was an 8-57mm it would usually have been turned into an 8mm-06 or rebarreld to something custom based on a north american round and restocked.

My guess is that it was a 7x57 exported out and then re-barreled somewhere in Northern Europe post war.
 
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Hschweers

Lil-Rokslider
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Do you have any pics of the full rifle/ stock?
How do you know it's chambered for 6.5x55? is it marked 6.5x55
I see the German marking on the receiver. Vtg German mausers were chambered in 8mm.
I’ll take some more pics when I reassemble. I attached the hand etched 6.5x55, and the guy I traded with gave me a half shot box of ammo. I placed one in the chamber and it seems correct as well
 

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moxford

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I am far from an expert, but here's my take ...

The crossed pickaxes on the bolt are Chilean contract marks for DWM. The numbers on the underside of the receiever also seems to fit the pattern, being a "D block" contract. The action and lack of guides point to it being an M1893 variant. Curious that it's in 6.5x55SE though. Are you sure it's 6.5x55SE and not 7mm, if there are no markings on it? =) Might be worth it to slug the barrel and find out for 100% sure what you're dealing with, unless you're already 110% sure.

Post good/well-lit pics of the whole bolt, bolt face, the lugs, and the overall rifle, including some with "raking light" and not just straight on flash. Is the magazine single or staggered stack?

If you're bored, this is a good watch, too.

Edit: saw your hand-scratched pic some in just now, yeah ... okay, rebarreled for sure then.

Cheers,
-mox
 
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I am far from an expert, but here's my take ...

The crossed pickaxes on the bolt are Chilean contract marks for DWM. The numbers on the underside of the receiever also seems to fit the pattern, being a "D block" contract. The action and lack of guides point to it being an M1893 variant. Curious that it's in 6.5x55SE though. Are you sure it's 6.5x55SE and not 7mm, if there are no markings on it? =) Might be worth it to slug the barrel and find out for 100% sure what you're dealing with, unless you're already 110% sure.

Post good/well-lit pics of the whole bolt, bolt face, the lugs, and the overall rifle, including some with "raking light" and not just straight on flash. Is the magazine single or staggered stack?

If you're bored, this is a good watch, too.

Edit: saw your hand-scratched pic some in just now, yeah ... okay, rebarreled for sure then.

Cheers,
-mox
If it is a 93 variant, the bolt face should be flat on the bottom.
 
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Hschweers

Lil-Rokslider
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Alright, some more photos attached. Thank you all for your help!

The magazine is double stacked. I put a 6.5mm nylon bore brush down it and it fit like it should.
 

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moxford

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Yeah, hard to tell exactly when that action was MFG'd. The stock doesn't look original either, so probably changed when it was rebarreled?

No idea if this is correct ...

Loewe strongly objected to FN making M1893 type rifles for export, claiming that the license it granted to FN was limited to making and selling M1889 rifles to the Belgian Army. Eventually A deal was struck. Although Loewe had a 50% interest in the firm, Loewe wanted FN to accept an quota allocation from what was to become the Mauser Rifle Cartel. The cartel consisted of Mauser Waffenfabrik owned by Loewe, Ludwig Loewe & CO. ( later merged with various Loewe ammunition and powder companies into DWM late in 1896 ), FN, in which DWM held a share, and the great Austrian rifle works at Steyr.
The result was that Ludwig Loewe & Co. took over supply of subsequent deliveries of M1894 7x57mm rifles to Brazil, and M1895 marked rifles to Uruguay, and Costa Rica. Rifles delivered after late 1896 were marked DWM instead of Loewe. The Chilean contracts went to Loewe and later DWM. https://carbinesforcollectors.com/chilepage1.html

Also, this may be of interest to you:

Cheers,
-mox
 
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Hschweers

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Apr 3, 2021
Messages
212
Yeah, hard to tell exactly when that action was MFG'd. The stock doesn't look original either, so probably changed when it was rebarreled?

No idea if this is correct ...



Also, this may be of interest to you:

Cheers,
-mox
Really appreciate it! So we’re confident it’s Chilean of some sort? Likely manufactured pre WW2 (@tater with that info). Obviously rebarreled, and Likely restocked.

So now a few more questions:
1) not of any significant value, correct? Couple hundred bucks to the right person?
2) the action is incredibly smooth, and overall I really like it. However, it catches on the way back forward for the last 3/4” or so. Appears to be manually squishing the firing pins springs, and it’s really stiff/tough to do that. Is there a solution? A new spring? Just disassemble the bolt and lube everything really well?
3) assuming it’s not valuable, and the bolt can be smoothed out, I’m interested in saving the action and rebarreling and restocking it to more modern stuff. Is that a crime to history? I’m not much one for historical guns, but if it should be preserved as much as possible, I respect that. The 6.5x55 appears to have a little more room in the mag well, maybe 1/4-3/8”. Guesses on factory chambering? With that, what cartridges would be possible without major overhaul beyond twisting a new barrel on?

To question 3: I’ve never done any work to a rifle. I don’t really know what I’m getting into as far as cost/effort to rebarrel and restock. Any labor guesstimates for this would be helpful, I can find material costs online for parts I would use.

Thanks again for all your help!
 

tater

WKR
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There are some anomalies to that rifle. Moxford is correct that those are crossed pickaxes and not hammers as i thought. Usually export rifles to any South American contracts had clear stamping (e.g. 1909 Argentine, 1895 Chilean carbine as mentioned etc.).

Back in the 50's and 60's milsurp Mausers were the Tikka's of the day: every second backyard bubba-smith rebarreled and restocked and there is lots of information and Brownells has all of the tools.

Having said that, whether you do it yourself or have someone else redo it, it will become expensive very quickly compared to just buying a new rifle.
Some things to be aware of:
If that bolt face has been opened to .480 to accommodate some European 6.5x55 brass you may have a potential issue using anything with a .473 head​
Setting headspace on a new barrel is precise work that requires special tools.​
Good barrels aren't cheap​
You will want a new trigger, as the military trigger is awful​
The bottom metal sucks for practical use so you will want a new set with a hinged floorplate​
I have a gorgeous FN Belgium made large ring 98 action that was a commercial export to Husqvarna for a limited run of rifles made in 1953. It has been waiting for a new barrel for a few years now. When i have the funds it will be made into a 338-06AI...
 
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