Any Ford mechanics?

[jolemons]

Ive seen those. If going that route why not just cap the vacuum and leave the IWE's engaged?

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More robust and reliable than the IWE, they won't wear out and cannot come unengaged like a worn IWE. I'm not a fan of what Ford engineers did with the 1/2 ton 4x4 system.

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[jmez]

Nor am I.

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[Stearinlys]

Good find with the lines!

I have seen some TCCM's do some funky things with the IWE's, but I find it interesting that yours grind once engaged. But that being said @Idaboy did what I've had to do on a few vehicles, and change the hubs as well. I've seen the IWE teeth wear the hubs out as well. But that's usually on the 4A trucks, which you said you don't have. But it could happen if for some reason the truck is losing its vacuum intermittently while driving and causing those teeth to engage and disengage over and over again.

With the vacuum issue though, I find it odd that 2 solenoids would be shot. So if you're feeling up to it you could do a couple of things to steer you in the right direction.
- First I would check that fuse 39 in the BJB is good. It's a 10A. Either visually, or stick a test light in pin 1 (SBB39 WH-RD) of the solenoid connector to ground and see if it lights up. If it doesn't you could have a blown fuse or high resistance in that circuit.
- Jump the solenoid manually to battery voltage and check for vacuum on the exhaust port (upper port) of the solenoid. If there is vacuum, and if your power circuit has been verified to be good (first step) then you need to check the integrity of the control circuit (wire to tccm)
- If you know how to do it, I would then perform a voltage drop test on the control circuit (CCF05 BN-BU) from the solenoid to the TCCM. It's possible the connector pins or the splice inline (S100) may have high resistance.
- If all that is good, then you may be looking at a TCCM issue, or switch problem.

Hope this helps at all lol

Here's a picture of the circuitry.

 

[jmez]

I was afraid it was going to come to this. I'm not very good with electrical.

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[Stearinlys]

It's not too bad, the hardest part is usually locating the connectors and identifying the pins lol.

Feel free to message me if you need any help, or I can guide you on here if you'd like

 

[jmez]

Thanks, will do if the lines don't fix it. They will be here tomorrow.

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[Sccritterkiller]

Check all your vacuum lines especially at the connections...on my 2012 all the connections dry rotted had to replace all the vacuum lines.

 

[Stearinlys]

@Sccritterkiller yeah he found his lines down tot he IWE's were leaking

 

[Sccritterkiller]

@Sccritterkiller yeah he found his lines down tot he IWE's were leaking

Yep...but check the entire length dont stop at one leak..lol...I thought I found my leak at the first connection...4 more bad connections later I had all the leaks fixed.

 

[Stearinlys]

Agreed, I'm assuming he got the whole assembly from the solenoid to both IWE's. Could be wrong though

 

[Sccritterkiller]

Agreed, I'm assuming he got the whole assembly from the solenoid to both IWE's. Could be wrong though

I just got a roll of vacuum line, elbows, and ts from the local parts store, took some of the OEM system and matched the size..just rebuilt it, as quick as the OEM stuff dry rotted wasnt going to waste money on the Ford parts.

 

[Stearinlys]

Brilliant. Vacuum line and fuel line is always great to have on hand. Use that crap for everything, especially when the crappy washer lines dry out and crack.

 

[jmez]

I got the whole assembly.

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[Stearinlys]

Hey @jmez how did you make out?

 

[jmez]

I changed the vacuum assembly. Drove it for about 2 days. Lost vacuum again somehow hubs trying to engage going down the road. Stopped immediately unplugged the vaccum and said screw it.

 

[jmez]

I changed everything but the transfer case control module. I'd guess it has to be that but I'm not spending another $200 to find out.

 

[rustynail27]

Forum looks like a little help. Good job guys

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