ANOTHER Toyota Tundra Discussion… Help please!

[nobody]

Ok sliders, I’m starting my truck shopping. I currently drive a 2013 half ton GMC extended cab. I’ve had it for about 4 years and want to get into a 4 door for kid space in the (hopefully) near future. I’m wanting to get into a 2nd gen tundra for less than $25k. My only fear/worry is that I have no idea what exactly to look for or ask about on these trucks as I’ve never owned one before.

I obviously want to get as low of mileage as possible, but even with a budget of $20-$25k I’m seeing mileage of 100-140k as the average, and that’s for a 9-12 year old model. I know it’s a Toyota and all that, but it’s still a 130k mile vehicle that’s over 10 years old. So what do I need to check for and look for?

I’ve read about the cam tower leaks, and know there’s something up with some model years with the frames/bed mounts or something? How prominent are these issues, how exactly do I check the frame out, and what else do I need to look for “in general” on these trucks outside the normal stuff? Are there certain model years to avoid completely? Please educate me!

EDIT TO ADD: How do these trucks do leveled/lifted slightly (2” or less-ish)? Do their drive components hold up ok or is that mod a no-go? Lots and LOTS of them I’m seeing locally are leveled.

 

[big44a4]

No issues on mine have own 2017, 2018, and 2020 combined miles on all 3 is 360k. Only maintenance I’ve ever done was oil changes. Finally changed transmission fluid on this one at 180k miles. Not recommended but they’ve been solid for me.

 

[Jason Snyder]

Look at how it was lifted. If it’s blocks/spacers that’s a waste of money. If they added a different strut with more travel then it adds functionality. I’ve put 55k on mine after lifting the front with no adverse effects.

Crazy wheel offsets and big lifts would be a warning flag to me. That stuff changes geometry and stresses front end parts.

For rust make sure you look underneath the plastic bed liner there is one. Crawl under it and look for rust and or fresh paint that doesn’t look right.

The cam tower leak isn’t hard to look for. Do a google search and you can figure out where to look under the front driver wheel well.

FWIW I bought a 2008 four years ago. It had 84k on it and I paid $18k.

 

[Cactus kid]

Look at how it was lifted. If it’s blocks/spacers that’s a waste of money. If they added a different strut with more travel then it adds functionality. I’ve put 55k on mine after lifting the front with no adverse effects.

Crazy wheel offsets and big lifts would be a warning flag to me. That stuff changes geometry and stresses front end parts.

For rust make sure you look underneath the plastic bed liner there is one. Crawl under it and look for rust and or fresh paint that doesn’t look right.

The cam tower leak isn’t hard to look for. Do a google search and you can figure out where to look under the front driver wheel well.

FWIW I bought a 2008 four years ago. It had 84k on it and I paid $18k.

I will counter that adding blocks/spacers do make the trucks look better (like a leveling kit) and allow for running larger tires, thus more ground clearance, so they are not a total waste of money. Or that is my understanding. I have a spacer lift on my truck with no issues, but I don't really need the extra travel from a full suspension lift.

Crazy wheels and big off sets are a huge clue the truck has been ragged out. It seems the guys that do that stuff cant afford the big tires AND regular truck maintanence, so guess which one goes by the way side. And they drive the things like a bat out of hell!

 

[CorbLand]

Toyotas are at a premium right now. It wasnt long ago that you couldnt pay people enough to take them off your hands, now they might as well be gold.

20-25K is going to put you in the 10-12 years old and 120-150K milage range.

2nd gens have the known issues of cam tower leaks and the bed rusting. Make sure you check both of those things.

Check under the bed and between the bed and cab really well.

Check the frame for rust. Crawl under there and look it over. You live in Utah and they use salt, so surface rust is a given. Make sure you look for something deeper than just surface rust. If the frame is freshly painted....thats a red flag.

If your going to be doing a lot of pulling, get one that is 2018 or older. They got rid of the transmission cooler in 2019.

2018s seem to be the holy grail of Tundras. They had most of the kinks worked out.

 

[180ls1]

There is lots of aftermarket lift/suspension support.

I routinely see them with $5-10K in suspension here in SoCal. Keeping the center of gravity low is often overlooked IMO but with some trimming and a mild lift, you can stuff 35s. Some get 37s but you won't clear chains I bet.

 

[Jason Snyder]

I will counter that adding blocks/spacers do make the trucks look better (like a leveling kit) and allow for running larger tires, thus more ground clearance, so they are not a total waste of money. Or that is my understanding. I have a spacer lift on my truck with no issues, but I don't really need the extra travel from a full suspension lift.

Crazy wheels and big off sets are a huge clue the truck has been ragged out. It seems the guys that do that stuff cant afford the big tires AND regular truck maintanence, so guess which one goes by the way side. And they drive the things like a bat out of hell!

Spacer Lift vs Preload Spacer vs Coilover Preload – AccuTune Off-Road

accutuneoffroad.com

You can break a shock with spacer lifts if they add too much lift and haven’t added extensions for the bump stops.

I bought Eibach coilovers and shocks and then added Icon expansion packs on the rear to add height and travel.

 

[Coopsdaddy]

Ive had probably 10 lifted vehicles.Unless you actually offroad use the smallest cheapest thing you can use.If you can get blocks for the rear and small spacers in front were it doesn’t change geometry your better off.
I use my stuff now for daily driving,gravel or back roads and minor trails.
I have had the most extensive toy tec/Bilstein setup you can get and none off it last.
I have replaced rear shocks and front coilovers in 3 years.
Keep stock preferably!

 

[Desk Jockey]

I had a 2008 and have a 2010.

frame rust
bed rust under plastic liner
rust on the lower seam of the tail gate that is rusting from inside out (there was a recall for water intrusion).
lifts can screw up alignment and camber that will wear parts and tires weird / fast
you may want to have the belts changed for piece of mind.

 

[Cactus kid]

Spacer Lift vs Preload Spacer vs Coilover Preload – AccuTune Off-Road

accutuneoffroad.com

You can break a shock with spacer lifts if they add too much lift and haven’t added extensions for the bump stops.

thanks for the link. any idea on what too much is? I dont go super crazy, 2" lift at most.

 

[Jason Snyder]

thanks for the link. any idea on what too much is? I dont go super crazy, 2" lift at most.

Personally I wouldn’t add that much front lift with spacers.

 

[180ls1]

Spacer Lift vs Preload Spacer vs Coilover Preload – AccuTune Off-Road

accutuneoffroad.com

You can break a shock with spacer lifts if they add too much lift and haven’t added extensions for the bump stops.

Yup.

Truck will ride like a boner also.

 

[180ls1]

thanks for the link. any idea on what too much is? I dont go super crazy, 2" lift at most.

I would do the Dobinsons 2" coils and their shocks. Go with the softest rate on the coils and comfort valving on the shocks. You can add an upper control arm set as well (I went with the freedom ones). That will be a VERY competent setup (increasing travel and capability) without breaking the bank or messing up geometry too much.

I have Bilstein up front and they are valved a little "stiff" for my liking.

Oh, re-boot the OEM CVs while you're in there too. DO NOT buy the autozone CV's that are the whole thing.

 

[nobody]

Very helpful everybody, thanks a ton! I’m trying to get some of this basic knowledge and understanding before even going to a dealer or calling an individual just so I’m well armed. I have a tendency to make snap/impulsive decisions with vehicles at times and let my emotions take over, so I’m trying to get all my questions answered objectively before even climbing in to drive one.

Sounds like the lift concerns are no different than any other pickup running down the road as far as wearing out front end and suspension parts. I won’t be lifting the truck personally, so no need to mega fixate on that aspect. I just see a lot of them with leveling kits and small lifts so it made me wonder.

For the frame rust issues, is it ALL second gens, or is it just certain model years?

Are there any other gremlins with these trucks to be aware of?

Also, I’m seeing some 4.6l V8’s available with lower mileage. I didn’t even know Toyota built anything but the 5.7. The 4.6 has almost identical specs to the 5.3 in my current GMC, which has been “enough” truck mechanically to this point. Is the 4.6 even worth looking at, or do I just stick to the 5.7?

ALSO, is the double cab big enough for a rear facing car seat, or would I need a crewmax?

 

[CorbLand]

Very helpful everybody, thanks a ton! Sounds like the lift concerns are no different than any other pickup running down the road as far as wearing out front end and suspension parts. I won’t be lifting the truck personally, so no need to mega fixate on that aspect. I just see a lot of them with leveling kits and small lifts so it made me wonder.

For the frame rust issues, is it ALL second gens, or is it just certain model years?

Are there any other gremlins with these trucks to be aware of?

Also, I’m seeing some 4.6l V8’s available with lower mileage. I didn’t even know Toyota built anything but the 5.7. The 4.6 has almost identical specs to the 5.3 in my current GMC, which has been “enough” truck mechanically to this point. Is the 4.6 even worth looking at, or do I just stick to the 5.7?

Both the 4.6 and 5.7 are solid. The 4.6 generally gets 1-2 MPG more than the 5.7. Personally, I would eat the 1-2 for the more "go" the 5.7 has but either would probably suit you fine.

 

[Jason Snyder]

I would do the Dobinsons 2" coils and their shocks. Go with the softest rate on the coils and comfort valving on the shocks. You can add an upper control arm set as well (I went with the freedom ones). That will be a VERY competent setup (increasing travel and capability) without breaking the bank or messing up geometry too much.

I have Bilstein up front and they are valved a little "stiff" for my liking.

Oh, re-boot the OEM CVs while you're in there too. DO NOT buy the autozone CV's that are the whole thing.

Are these the yellow Dobinsons or the newer IMS?

 

[WeiserBucks]

Is the 4.6 even worth looking at, or do I just stick to the 5.7?

I just went through this same process. My research led me to believe that both engines were durable and got very similar mileage so might as well get the power of the 5.7.

 

[Jason Snyder]

ALSO, is the double cab big enough for a rear facing car seat, or would I need a crewmax?

I can fit a medium Dakota 283 crate in the back of my double cab (turned sideways obviously). I’m sure a car seat will fit. The back is bigger than the back seat of the 99 Dodge we had car seats in.

The engine wouldn’t be a deal breaker for me. I drove a 4.6 when I was shopping. I’m glad we got the 5.7 though because we bought a 22’ camp trailer a few years ago.

 

[Bama67]

I had two Tundras: 5.7L, one with 235k miles, the other with 285K miles. Pretty reliable if you delete the Air Injection, whatever it is system. This failed on both trucks.
Ultimately I replaced them with Ford F-250's with the 6.2 gas engine. This is the only truck out there I feel equals the reliability of the Tundra. We ran these in fleets in the oil field and they just run forever and don't break.
They get just as good, or bad, mpg as the Tundra, but I gained a ton in payload (over double) and just general capability. Only downside is worse ride quality, but that doesn't bother me much.

 

[big44a4]

Very helpful everybody, thanks a ton! Sounds like the lift concerns are no different than any other pickup running down the road as far as wearing out front end and suspension parts. I won’t be lifting the truck personally, so no need to mega fixate on that aspect. I just see a lot of them with leveling kits and small lifts so it made me wonder.

For the frame rust issues, is it ALL second gens, or is it just certain model years?

Are there any other gremlins with these trucks to be aware of?

Also, I’m seeing some 4.6l V8’s available with lower mileage. I didn’t even know Toyota built anything but the 5.7. The 4.6 has almost identical specs to the 5.3 in my current GMC, which has been “enough” truck mechanically to this point. Is the 4.6 even worth looking at, or do I just stick to the 5.7?

ALSO, is the double cab big enough for a rear facing car seat, or would I need a crewmax?

You will want the crew max for a rear facing car seat so you don’t have to keep moving the passenger seat forward and backward.