Questions for 2013 Tundra Owners

[Crusader]

Hey guys, I'm in the market for a used Tundra Double Cab pickup. I've got a lead on what looks like a real nice one, it's a Limited trim. A couple of broad questions for anyone who might own one of these (a Crew Cab owner probably could chime in too, as of course the 5.7 engine is in both cab configurations).

First, are there any known issues/problems with the 2013 Tundra that I should look for, in both a physical inspection and in driving it?

Second, this particular model has about 98k miles on it and it looks like a cream puff from the pics and I think the current (second owner) is very particular about caring for his vehicles. Right now, he's asking $24,895 for it, which is in the upper end of the KBB range for this vehicle. To me it seems like the price is high given it's 12 y/o. I know that these trucks are crazy expensive and hold their value well, but compared to other ones I've seen that may be 4-7 years newer, this one seems kinda high.

Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[WeiserBucks]

When I was doing research before my purchase everyone said to look out for cam tower oil leaks on the 5.7, seems like a semi expensive repair.

 

[Crusader]

When I was doing research before my purchase everyone said to look out for cam tower oil leaks on the 5.7, seems like a semi expensive repair.

Thanks. Curious, what did you end up buying and are you satisfied with it?

 

[S.Clancy]

We have a 2012, same trim and engine. With normal maintenance they are pretty dang bullet proof to 250-300K, many last much longer. We're gonna drive ours till it dies.

 

[WeiserBucks]

Thanks. Curious, what did you end up buying and are you satisfied with it?

Bought an older one to fit my budget and zero complaints except fuel capacity and mpg but that's a universal fact of these trucks.

 

[SuperDUECE22]

as stated above cam tower leaks and water pump failures are known issues but overall they are pretty darn good. I've had absolutely zero issues with mine, only complaint is small fuel tank.

 

[CorbLand]

Cam tower leaks. Also believe that 2013 is in the years of bed rust issues.

Price wise, as much as it sucks, someone will give him 25 for it so I would say it’s probably not out of line. I wish I could have found a deal like this when I was buying a year ago.

Quick search around me puts that 5K cheaper than anything I can find with similar mileage and trim.

 

[Crusader]

Thanks for the comments, guys. I just got a message from the seller and the truck is sold. But there's always another one out there!

 

[GunsAreFun]

When looking at any 2007-2013 Tundra, you need to get under the truck and check the bed for rust. It usually is most common in the corners, front and back of wheel well, and where it bolts to the crossmembers. Also check from the top by feeling for soft spots. If there is a drop in bedliner, have the seller help you take it out. They come in and out easy.

If that truck spent any significant time in Midwest or north, there is a very good chance it has serious rust.

There is no good fix for this. You can try to find a replacement bed from a junkyard in like Texas and then get a durable rust proofing applied to the bottom…they rust from the bottom up. That’s an expensive PITA depending on where you live. You can have someone cut the rust out and weld in new metal, while also rust proofing it, and then apply a bedliner. And then get a hose attachment so you can wash the bottom of your truck regularly in winter.

My 2010 was pretty badly rusted. The front corners were all the way through. Where it starts getting concerning is when the rust gets to where the bed bolts down.

 

[Mtndawger]

I paid $23k 5 years ago for my 2013 tundra sr5 with 74k miles on it. Could get damn near that now if I sold it. Thought it was a bit high at the time. The only thing it has needed is front end alignment and full tuneup. Absolutely reliable. If it’s relatively low mileage and a one owner who cared for it I wouldn’t sweat that price one bit. They really hold their value.

 

[Weldor]

Buy a Arizona or New Mexico truck, even West Texas. No Rust. They are all priced high but sit on the market down this way. FB is loaded with them.

 

[Crusader]

I've done considerably more shopping in the two months since I started this thread. Still looking. Have eliminated anything in northern climates. Still can't believe these things are so expensive. I'm in the St. Louis area and a couple of weeks ago the local Toyota dealer (from whom I bought my new 2023 4R year before last, at a great price) had a 2017 Tundra DC SR5 with 67k miles on it and it was only in average shape/condition. In the listing for the truck on their website they included an image of the original window sticker. It was $40k new and they were asking $32k for it now, 80% of the original cost 8 years ago! Blew my mind. I'm pretty much limiting myself now to private party sellers; it may take a while but I'm in in no rush and figure I'll eventually find one.

 

[GunsAreFun]

I've done considerably more shopping in the two months since I started this thread. Still looking. Have eliminated anything in northern climates. Still can't believe these things are so expensive. I'm in the St. Louis area and a couple of weeks ago the local Toyota dealer (from whom I bought my new 2023 4R year before last, at a great price) had a 2017 Tundra DC SR5 with 67k miles on it and it was only in average shape/condition. In the listing for the truck on their website they included an image of the original window sticker. It was $40k new and they were asking $32k for it now, 80% of the original cost 8 years ago! Blew my mind. I'm pretty much limiting myself now to private party sellers; it may take a while but I'm in in no rush and figure I'll eventually find one.

Crewmax with 40k or less miles are being listed for sticker price or more. Wild for 5-7 year old vehicles, especially considering the 2018-20s probably sold new for ~$5k under sticker.

 

[SonnyDay]

I have a 2011 CrewMax Tundra (SR5 trim) that I love. One of the biggest positives for me is that it has a CD player, and physical buttons for sound, climate control, etc. The screen BS on newer cars drives me nuts (and I suspect contributes to crashes).

It has been very reliable for me... at just about 200K miles.

I lifted it, and as a result have had issues with steering components (power steering pump, rack), but otherwise it has been solid.

I did have to install a new alternator recently when the original crapped out... but 14 years ain't bad for an alternator--especially given the dust and other abuse I put it through. I bought it for around $30K back in 2015... worth every penny.

 

[Eagle]

One thing to look for on the 17 and older (I think) is if it was a flex fuel. They have a cold start issue that requires a reset of some kind. My dad’s 13 has experienced the problem off and on.