Anchor points

[Kauffy]

Took a compound class last weekend and the coach taught no nose to string and only lightly touching your face with release hand. I shoot a hinge and always put my knuckle in the back of my jaw, nose to string, and center peep with sight housing. My bow is 27.5" DL and 30.5" axle to axle. My posture is better with my head up but feel like I'm floating in the abyss without my nose on the string. Back tension and peep/sight housing are the anchor points he teaches. Anyone use this method?

 

[jmannas]

I’m curious what people say. I love the face points… more anchors for me the better.. but I’ve tried to select bows/setups that allow me to keep posture as well. I’m still trying to make it all touch and align while maintain posture.


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[Holocene]

Following

 

[Bl704]

Took a compound class last weekend and the coach taught no nose to string and only lightly touching your face with release hand. I shoot a hinge and always put my knuckle in the back of my jaw, nose to string, and center peep with sight housing. My bow is 27.5" DL and 30.5" axle to axle. My posture is better with my head up but feel like I'm floating in the abyss without my nose on the string. Back tension and peep/sight housing are the anchor points he teaches. Anyone use this method?

I used to shoot with two points of reverence site and anchor. For me, I moved to 3 points (including nose) and I think I'm more accurate and was able to stretch my practice distances out further. I'd have to ask any teacher 'why?' 2 points over 3 - there could be a reason...

 

[TheBootBowhunting]

There is a difference (in my shot process at least) between putting your nose on the string, and feeling the string on your nose. Sounds like semantics, but put your bow on a draw board and see how little tension it takes to move the string. Especially with these super high letoff mods. I keep the index knuckle right behind my jaw bone, and i feel the string on the tip of my nose and through the corner of my mouth. Im just aware not to put any pressure on the string.

 

[Kauffy]

I think the reason was keeping your head upright and not dropping to the string.

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[Marble]

Took a compound class last weekend and the coach taught no nose to string and only lightly touching your face with release hand. I shoot a hinge and always put my knuckle in the back of my jaw, nose to string, and center peep with sight housing. My bow is 27.5" DL and 30.5" axle to axle. My posture is better with my head up but feel like I'm floating in the abyss without my nose on the string. Back tension and peep/sight housing are the anchor points he teaches. Anyone use this method?

I would get a different coach or never go back. Just my opinion.

Lightly touching the nose is important.
Lightly pressing your hand to your face is important.
And having a peep that fits your housing is important.

Other things to consider are:

Different releases
Draw length changes
Poor posture
Rotating the hinge instead of actually pulling with tension.


The most important thing when it comes down to being accurate with a bow is being consistent. Doing the same thing every single time on purpose.

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[Marble]

I think the reason was keeping your head upright and not dropping to the string.

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That's important. You should "stand proud"and upright. Not slouched. I'm not completely sure why, but I suspect it's to keep good shoulder position and alignment.

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[Rob5589]

Depends. Can your nose get to the string without excessive downward movement? Short ata bows with sharp string angles make it more difficult to do so. I personally don't touch the string with my nose.

 

[Kauffy]

Depends. Can your nose get to the string without excessive downward movement? Short ata bows with sharp string angles make it more difficult to do so. I personally don't touch the string with my nose.

With my string angle I have to drop my head quite a bit. I feels better with my head up but I've been having a lot of left hits (I'm right handed). Back tension has been a lot better but consistency hasn't.

 

[Fatcamp]

I am working on changing my form and anchor points. I wear glases which complicates things. Added nose to string recently and I believe it is going to be a positive change.

It's a bit of a mess right now as I am changing so much at once. Just needs time.

 

[Billy Goat]

I can see a coach starting out teaching that. Same as starting someone without a peep.

Instead of bombarding someone with this, this, and this. Work on standing straight, holding yourself correctly, foot placement, grip, and proper back tension. Start to get some of that ingrained, then work on the additional anchor points. Adding anchors are easy, correcting poor form isn't.

 

[OR Archer]

I would get a different coach or never go back. Just my opinion.

Lightly touching the nose is important.
Lightly pressing your hand to your face is important.
And having a peep that fits your housing is important.

Other things to consider are:

Different releases
Draw length changes
Poor posture
Rotating the hinge instead of actually pulling with tension.


The most important thing when it comes down to being accurate with a bow is being consistent. Doing the same thing every single time on purpose.

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Agreed. There’s not a pro out there who does what your coach is suggesting for anchoring.

 

[Marble]

With my string angle I have to drop my head quite a bit. I feels better with my head up but I've been having a lot of left hits (I'm right handed). Back tension has been a lot better but consistency hasn't.

Generally the left inconsistent left hits I see with a handheld release is because of facial pressure, meaning you're putting the string into your face, overaiming, especially at short distances where you can see better. People tend to overly torque the bow and force the pin into the spot. And lastly, how you activate the release. You need to pull straight through.

Other things that make you hit left are lighting changes and not being warmed up.

Varying light from shooting outdoors vs indoors can make a shift. Super common. I'm not sure why but it has to do with how the light comes through the peep and the orientation with the scope housing.

For me, I need about 20 arrows to get all my muscles, brain and eyes into the groove of shooting.

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[BBob]

For me, I need about 20 arrows to get all my muscles, brain and eyes into the groove of shooting.

Speaking of. One thing I've done for years when hitting the range where a long distance target is available. The first shot is always at a longer distance be it 80yds, 100yds, etc... It'll expose problems and over time will improve your hunting game and confidence when you pull up and have to make the shot. Same thing as first cold bore shot practice on the rifle range.

 

[AaronMColeman]

Generally the left inconsistent left hits I see with a handheld release is because of facial pressure, meaning you're putting the string into your face, overaiming, especially at short distances where you can see better. People tend to overly torque the bow and force the pin into the spot. And lastly, how you activate the release. You need to pull straight through.

Other things that make you hit left are lighting changes and not being warmed up.

Varying light from shooting outdoors vs indoors can make a shift. Super common. I'm not sure why but it has to do with how the light comes through the peep and the orientation with the scope housing.

For me, I need about 20 arrows to get all my muscles, brain and eyes into the groove of shooting.

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I've noticed a huge difference in how my form "feels" shooting indoor vs out door. I do huge majority of my shooting indoor (basement) until about June. Once I step oudoors I have a hard time finding the peep in the perfect location. Indoor it's very natural. I've always wondered if I was a weird freak or if simply switching environments can make that big a difference.

 

[OR Archer]

I've noticed a huge difference in how my form "feels" shooting indoor vs out door. I do huge majority of my shooting indoor (basement) until about June. Once I step oudoors I have a hard time finding the peep in the perfect location. Indoor it's very natural. I've always wondered if I was a weird freak or if simply switching environments can make that big a difference.

Lighting conditions will definitely play into how easy it is to “find” your peep.

 

[AaronMColeman]

Lighting conditions will definitely play into how easy it is to “find” your peep.

I've been shooting a bow for a lot of years. I haven't really been a true student of archery for more than a few years. All of these things are new to me and I always wonder "is it just me". Outdoor takes me a few sessions to really warm up to comfort in my form, draw, and target acquisition.

 

[Marble]

I've noticed a huge difference in how my form "feels" shooting indoor vs out door. I do huge majority of my shooting indoor (basement) until about June. Once I step oudoors I have a hard time finding the peep in the perfect location. Indoor it's very natural. I've always wondered if I was a weird freak or if simply switching environments can make that big a difference.

To fix this, you can get a podium peep with multiple apertures. No tools required and as you go from cloudy, to sunny and ibdoor to outdoor, you can change your peep on the fly so it fits just right.

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[sndmn11]

Depends. Can your nose get to the string without excessive downward movement? Short ata bows with sharp string angles make it more difficult to do so. I personally don't touch the string with my nose.

This is exactly why I shoot a 35" bow with my 30" draw length. Some short bows seem to put the peep waaaayyyy out in front of my face due to string angle.