Ac unit suggestions

Gobbler36

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Dec 6, 2015
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Idaho
Been thinking about replacing my ac unit and looking at DIY ing it and wondering if folks on here have ever done it?
I’m descently handy and trying to get an idea on how to do this

Last quote we got was north of 13k for a replacement with install

Not about to pay that
 

Tjdeerslayer37

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Jul 10, 2020
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Wayne, MI
just the condenser outside? pretty simple to do, especially since you have an existing unit. swap all your power wiring to the new one, hook up the thermostat leads, solder on the refrigerant lines and call up someone to charge it for you. the interior evaporator could be a little more complicated, especially if you cant get a replacement that matches the dimensions of the old one, then youll be doing some sheet metal work.

youll need to have your old system refrigerant sucked out of there too before you go disconnecting the lines. might get you a discount on refilling when all is said and done.

fyi im an electrician by trade but dont do hvac, i installed a furnace/evaporator/condenser in my home a few years back. having never done it before, i did about 90% of it and had a friend charge it and go over everything i had done to verify it was fine. but this was basically a new install, if yours is a swap then its much simpler.

ETA- when i bought my setup i ordered off hvacdirect.com price was great and everything showed up on a pallet in the driveway.
 
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Word of advise from someone that does it. Don't Solder your lineset. Braze it. Also, you need someone that is EPA certified to work on the system with specialized tools and knowledge. 13k to change a condenser is crazy. Shouldnt be more than $4000-$6000 depending on tonnage.
 
OP
Gobbler36

Gobbler36

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Idaho
ok thanks for the advice guys
My current unit is 2 tons and I’d like to go up to a 3.5 ton unit.

How do y’all feel about ordering one of these off Amazon or the Mr cool units?
 
Joined
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I'll bite...

A few questions to focus a response. Ductless or ducted? What is the size of the linesets? Throw some pictures of the outdoor and indoor unit.
 

Weldor

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z
Check out the inverter units with separate airhandler. Not the wall mounted units. Ac work out here is running crazy prices $20,000 up to $35,000 and people are crazy enough to pay it.
 
OP
Gobbler36

Gobbler36

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2 to 3.5ton is a pretty good jump. Did you put a big addition on? Can your duct system handle that much air flow? Might be worth having a manual j load calculation done.
Pretty sure yes
I had a guy out that was going to do it for reasonable but ended up with bad health issues and retired and said ours was pretty well undersized after previous owner added a finished bonus above garage and said we could go up to a 3 ton unit
 

JoeDirt

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ok thanks for the advice guys
My current unit is 2 tons and I’d like to go up to a 3.5 ton unit.

How do y’all feel about ordering one of these off Amazon or the Mr cool units?
Don't upsize, you'll have evaporator freezing issues. Bigger isn't better is a balanced system Replace like for like or replace the whole system.

You might be able to do a 2.5 ton but thats it.
 
Joined
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Whatcom County, WA
I would have a company come out and do a load calculation and evaluate your duct work. They will be able to tell you the size of equipment you will need.

13k for a new system isn't out of the ordinary. If you want to try and find some savings ask companies about rebates or energy credits from installing a heat pump.

Stay away from Amazon specials
 
OP
Gobbler36

Gobbler36

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Are these any good ?
 
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Gobbler36

Gobbler36

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Don't upsize, you'll have evaporator freezing issues. Bigger isn't better is a balanced system Replace like for like or replace the whole system.

You might be able to do a 2.5 ton but thats it.
Copy that
 
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Upstate NY

Are these any good?
I wouldn't buy a Goodman brand. There are other offerings out there if you want a HP. A little more $$ and you can get an inverter HP that is 20seer. As stated, check the rebates in your area. Most electric providers are offering rebates and the government is offering tax credits. Catch there is they have to be installed by approved dealers. The inverter HP modulates with a much more efficient electric demand to meet the current conditions.
 

hunterjmj

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Have a manual J done before jumping a ton and half. You'll have multiple issues if your system is oversized. Proper brazing practices, pressure test and a deep vacuum before charging with refrigerant is a must as well. Good luck. I'd find a one man shop and talk to them before making the diy jump.
 

TaperPin

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Jul 12, 2023
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In Idaho you don’t have high humidity and won’t have freeze up issues if you’re a little oversize, but I don’t know that 3.5 ton is too much overkill unless the house is quite small.

My hvac buddy has a 5 ton in his 1,700 sqft house, and that’s almost exactly what we have in a climate very similar to southern ID.

A very basic low SEER is less problematic and easier to fix. I think Goodman fits in that category. Watching repair videos on YouTube, repair guys are always making fun of how unreliable and how designed to fail high SEER models are. Refrigerant valves are designed to fail - the old orifice controlled evaporators never fail.

In Europe R22 units are simply run with new oil and R134 - it’s the American hvac industry lobbying $$$$$ that have had laws passed that require complete new units that also require a higher pressure lineset. Legalized robbery and most Americans don’t know how badly they are being screwed and simply say, “Thank you, can I have another.” My R22 unit has run on R134 for a decade with zero issues - I get the same delta T with lower pressures than R22, so it’s even easier on the compressor. It would benefit from the next lower size orifice, but works as good as R22 ever did. Gauges are just the same old R22 model.

The hvac lobbying $$$$ have also passed regulations that make no sense other than to put money in the pocket of installers and dissuade diy installs - like requiring brazing the lineset. It passes a building inspection to use flare union that has been soldered at the seat where copper tubing meets brass flare - it’s technically a flare connection, but is as leak free as a silver soldered or braised connection - stupid to have to work around stupid regulations.

The refrigeration installers are allowed to use low temp silver solder like Harris Stay Bright 8 on line sets, but magically it’s too low pressure for residential hvac?! Total horse schitt - a Stay Brite 8 joint is stronger than the copper tubing. Thank you big corporate greed, can I have another!

Corporate donations to elected government officials are costing us all a bunch of money in all aspects of our lives and all we say is, “Thank you can I have another.” Horse schitt.
 

Hardly_Hangin

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Whatever you decide to go with, keep in mind that most manufactures are starting to discontinue r410a models and shifting to r32 or the like. Some folks are sandbagging buying until they can get new gen refrigerant units but others are gobbling up every 410a unit they can while they can.

I cant speak for other brands that i havent worked with, but we rep Gree units and all my installing contractors havent complained about them (no news is good news!). Their built in wifi module is a big hit, and they offer some high and low seer models. For your climate id recommend something with a ultra low ambient heat pump operation. Gree's "ultra heat" series will heat down into the negative 20s or thereabouts.

For reference, ive never installed one but im a mechanical sales rep in the southeast. Havent had any warranty claims yet on ones ive sold the past 2 years.
 
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