6.5 Creedmoor expansion out of a 24 inch vs 20 inch barrel, hunting using copper non lead bullets

[youttriggered]

Hi guys was looking to buy my first rifle for hunting deer and bear in CA and was worried about the expansion abilities of copper bullets when going down from a 24inch barrel to a 20 inch barrel in 6.5 Creedmoor due to decreased velocity. Aiming to get a muzzle break so would prefer the 20 inch but recoil is quite manageable so I don't mind going with a longer 24 inch.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

The difference in muzzle velocity between a 24” and a 20” barrel is probably 100-120fps.

You’ll be fine.

 

[youttriggered]

Thanks for the assurance, only reason I asked because of the posts talking about the velocities needed for copper bullets like Barnes TTSX, TSX, and LRX to expand effectively was higher than usual.

 

[ReddingArcher]

You can always drop down in bullet weight to gain some more velocity. While not a 6.5 creedmoor, I’ve got a 6.5 prc with a 20” barrel and it’s pushing a 127 LRX at a little over 3000 fps. Those are a hand load from Unknown Munitions. Might be worth having them load you up something in a lighter weight if you can’t find a factory option.

 

[7RemMag]

I guess ReddingArcher gave my answer in the time it took me to type it out.
You can drop your grain weight a little bit if you’re concerned about velocity. Speed is your friend with monolithic projectiles as long as it’s within the manufacturer’s specifications.

 

[Macintosh]

You’ll run out of steam a few yards earlier, but you just have to plug different bullets into a calculator and estimate each barrel’s velocity to see where each drops below the velocity you want. Depending on the altitude and the bullet it’ll be somewhere between 300-450 yards. If you need more range, then maybe it matters.
Example, at 2000’ elevation my 24” 6.5cm shooting factory LRX’s drops below 2000fps at about 425 yards. If I lower the muzzle velocity by estimating 25fps/inch of barrel, it drops below 2000fps at 380 yards. If that 45 yards matters to you, then maybe go with the longer barrel. If it doesnt, then chop it off.
These bullets actually carry velocity farther than the 120gr ttsx and etip loads Ive tried, but worth checking. Copper usually has a lower bc as well, and the lighter bullet will be even lower, so even if the lighter bullet carries velocity it may be harder to hit with it, so just be careful assuming the terminal performance is the full story.

 

[SloppyJ]

If you're stuck with copper, I really like the idea of one of the more fragmenting type designs over the typical mono 99% weight retention. I think it would serve you well especially out of a slower rifle. It'd be worth the load development time. And if you don't reload, that's a legit reason to start.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I cut 4” off my 30-06 and lost almost exactly 100fps. With that, my 180g accubond drops below 1800fps at ~ 525 yards, I wouldn’t shoot that gun at an animal that far anyways, probably never past 350 so it’s all good.

I’m working on some loads with my 18” 6.5 creedmoor that should be hitting 1800fps around 600yds, again farther than I’d ever hunt with so it’s not going to be a handicap.

 

[HairyScandinavian]

OP, I know you're stuck with copper in CA but my 18" 6.5 CM flings factory Superformance 129gr SST at 2840 fps. I know Superformance has a copper as well, think it's CX? I'd bet you won't lose any appreciable velocity on that from a 20" barrel so assuming it shoots it well I think you're covered if other offerings lose too much velocity.

 

[DisplacedHusky]

Since you live in CA and you can’t own a suppressor, why not a 24” and no muzzle brake?

 

[youttriggered]

You’ll run out of steam a few yards earlier, but you just have to plug different bullets into a calculator and estimate each barrel’s velocity to see where each drops below the velocity you want. Depending on the altitude and the bullet it’ll be somewhere between 300-450 yards. If you need more range, then maybe it matters.
Example, at 2000’ elevation my 24” 6.5cm shooting factory LRX’s drops below 2000fps at about 425 yards. If I lower the muzzle velocity by estimating 25fps/inch of barrel, it drops below 2000fps at 380 yards. If that 45 yards matters to you, then maybe go with the longer barrel. If it doesnt, then chop it off.
These bullets actually carry velocity farther than the 120gr ttsx and etip loads Ive tried, but worth checking. Copper usually has a lower bc as well, and the lighter bullet will be even lower, so even if the lighter bullet carries velocity it may be harder to hit with it, so just be careful assuming the terminal performance is the full story.

Honestly that makes sense, realistically taking deer at the limit ranges of 350-400 yards seems so rare that I think it will be totally fine for a maneuverable gun.

 

[youttriggered]

Since you live in CA and you can’t own a suppressor, why not a 24” and no muzzle brake?

Honestly I am still debating between a 24 inch tikka t3x superlite ss vs the eurooptic 20 inch tikka t3x superlite ss roughtech so either way goes for me. Think the 20 inch has a threaded barrel and is 5.9 pounds and the 24 inch without threaded barrel is 6.1 pounds. Just trying to dig a little deeper into the small details.



Also there is a tikka t3x stainless ember roughtech that is 24 inch with a threaded barrel but seems like it has slightly heavier D18 barrel coming in at 7.1 pounds but that does seem a little overkill.

 

[nm.otter]

Most of us paid extra to get a 20" threaded. No suppressors -- maybe a 22"?

 

[HairyScandinavian]

Honestly I am still debating between a 24 inch tikka t3x superlite ss vs the eurooptic 20 inch tikka t3x superlite ss roughtech so either way goes for me. Think the 20 inch has a threaded barrel and is 5.9 pounds and the 24 inch without threaded barrel is 6.1 pounds. Just trying to dig a little deeper into the small details.



Also there is a tikka t3x stainless ember roughtech that is 24 inch with a threaded barrel but seems like it has slightly heavier D18 barrel coming in at 7.1 pounds but that does seem a little overkill.

So I just today shot my very first Tikka, it's the 6.5 CM 20" Roughtech Superlight from EuroOptic. I absolutely love it. Bore sighted the first shot was 5" low straight down, adjusted scope 20 clicks up and 2nd show was bullseye, 3rd and 4th shots touching bullseye. From there I went over to the steel range and center punched steel plates at 209 and 300 yards effortlessly, it was the most automatic thing I've ever experienced. My only complaint is the goofy m15x1 thread pattern but I had a DT hub made to fit it so it's not the end of the world. I'd get the 20" with or without suppressor because it's just a nice balance.

 

[AZ_Hunter]

Drop down in weight and go with some hammers. The absolute hammer is a bore rider design so it is faster than a typical bullet of equal weight. I don’t have any first hand experience with them yet, but there is plenty of info online.

I will be ordering up some 118HHT’s to try out for my 16” 65cm.

 

[youttriggered]

So I just today shot my very first Tikka, it's the 6.5 CM 20" Roughtech Superlight from EuroOptic. I absolutely love it. Bore sighted the first shot was 5" low straight down, adjusted scope 20 clicks up and 2nd show was bullseye, 3rd and 4th shots touching bullseye. From there I went over to the steel range and center punched steel plates at 209 and 300 yards effortlessly, it was the most automatic thing I've ever experienced. My only complaint is the goofy m15x1 thread pattern but I had a DT hub made to fit it so it's not the end of the world. I'd get the 20" with or without suppressor because it's just a nice balance.

Thanks man, I saw definitely influenced by your prior posts on the fit and finish of the eurooptic tikka t3x superlight roughtech, Just wanted to confirm, both the coyote tan and ember/tungsten are cerakote colors and they are all stainless steel underneath right?

 

[youttriggered]

Drop down in weight and go with some hammers. The absolute hammer is a bore rider design so it is faster than a typical bullet of equal weight. I don’t have any first hand experience with them yet, but there is plenty of info online.

I will be ordering up some 118HHT’s to try out for my 16” 65cm.

Haven't explored custom ammunition yet but definitely will consider hammer in the future. Do you load your own or do you buy from a custom ammo manufacturer?

 

[180ls1]

OP, I know you're stuck with copper in CA but my 18" 6.5 CM flings factory Superformance 129gr SST at 2840 fps. I know Superformance has a copper as well, think it's CX? I'd bet you won't lose any appreciable velocity on that from a 20" barrel so assuming it shoots it well I think you're covered if other offerings lose too much velocity.

Yeah, their 120 cx is the fastest you can get for factory stuff and would be my go to. I would also keep it 24" with the creed.

My 24" PRC pushes copper 3400 and works so well I even use it out of state sometimes even though I have a lead only gun.

 

[AZ_Hunter]

Haven't explored custom ammunition yet but definitely will consider hammer in the future. Do you load your own or do you buy from a custom ammo manufacturer?

I handload.

 

[HairyScandinavian]

Thanks man, I saw definitely influenced by your prior posts on the fit and finish of the eurooptic tikka t3x superlight roughtech, Just wanted to confirm, both the coyote tan and ember/tungsten are cerakote colors and they are all stainless steel underneath right?

I believe so yes, it's got SS on the box and looks like SS on the threads. I bought the Ember because it was cheaper lol.