6.5 Creedmoor expansion out of a 24 inch vs 20 inch barrel, hunting using copper non lead bullets

[Macintosh]

It costs +/- $150 or less to get your barrel chopped down, threaded if you want. Get the 24”, bc you cant ADD barrel. If theres a problem, you can shorten it easily after a season to exactly the length you want. Id bet good money its not a problem though. Dont overthink it, at least until you have your own opinions. Spend the money on practice ammo.

 

[KenLee]

Hi guys was looking to buy my first rifle for hunting deer and bear in CA and was worried about the expansion abilities of copper bullets when going down from a 24inch barrel to a 20 inch barrel in 6.5 Creedmoor due to decreased velocity. Aiming to get a muzzle break so would prefer the 20 inch but recoil is quite manageable so I don't mind going with a longer 24 inch.

Don't put a brake on a 6.5 Creed as your first rifle unless you weigh less than 120 pounds. The blast is much worse than the recoil, especially with a short barrel.
Light for caliber ttsx will be fine from a 20 inch barrel out to 300 yards on game.

 

[youttriggered]

It costs +/- $150 or less to get your barrel chopped down, threaded if you want. Get the 24”, bc you cant ADD barrel. If theres a problem, you can shorten it easily after a season to exactly the length you want. Id bet good money its not a problem though. Dont overthink it, at least until you have your own opinions. Spend the money on practice ammo.

Yea if anything I'd rather focus on testing ammo, custom hand loads are always an option.

 

[youttriggered]

Don't put a brake on a 6.5 Creed as your first rifle unless you weigh less than 120 pounds. The blast is much worse than the recoil, especially with a short barrel.
Light for caliber ttsx will be fine from a 20 inch barrel out to 300 yards on game.

My reasoning for brakes are simply for easing the muzzle jump and recoil on such a lightweight setup. I'd like to see what I'm shooting at without having a friend spot for me.

Although with such setup of under 8 pounds I'm not shooting enough to warrant a brake so might as well take the longer barrel.

Would love to put a suppressor on it for hunting but again CA so .

 

[thinhorn_AK]

My reasoning for brakes are simply for easing the muzzle jump and recoil on such a lightweight setup. I'd like to see what I'm shooting at without having a friend spot for me.

Although with such setup of under 8 pounds I'm not shooting enough to warrant a brake so might as well take the longer barrel.

Would love to put a suppressor on it for hunting but again CA so .

I don’t really get this. Spotting shots is cool but you can see where your bullet hit a target or a gong, even rocks you shoot at, you see the hits.

If doing that is hard for you, then you need to practice more and not rely on a muzzle break. I was at the range the other day and these two dorks were there, one was just shooting while the other was watching from another bench through his rifle scope. The guy kept blasting away and saying “where am I hitting”…..bro, if you can’t tell where you are hitting, why are you just continuing to shoot.

I see it fairly often, once another weirdo and his wife got out of their car and the guys started blasting with his AR15 while his wife watched with binos, he kept a saying “where am I shooting”…..just dosent make sense to me.

 

[huntsd]

Thanks for the assurance, only reason I asked because of the posts talking about the velocities needed for copper bullets like Barnes TTSX, TSX, and LRX to expand effectively was higher than usual.

Fellow ca hunter here. I’d recommend a different bullet than the ttsx. I’ve had poor results with them. And since we can’t run suppressed not go with a 22-24”?

 

[youttriggered]

I don’t really get this. Spotting shots is cool but you can see where your bullet hit a target or a gong, even rocks you shoot at, you see the hits.

If doing that is hard for you, then you need to practice more and not rely on a muzzle break. I was at the range the other day and these two dorks were there, one was just shooting while the other was watching from another bench through his rifle scope. The guy kept blasting away and saying “where am I hitting”…..bro, if you can’t tell where you are hitting, why are you just continuing to shoot.

I see it fairly often, once another weirdo and his wife got out of their car and the guys started blasting with his AR15 while his wife watched with binos, he kept a saying “where am I shooting”…..just dosent make sense to me.

Makes sense, I am just exploring options before pulling the trigger.

 

[KenLee]

Fellow ca hunter here. I’d recommend a different bullet than the ttsx. I’ve had poor results with them. And since we can’t run suppressed not go with a 22-24”?

We've had good results with 120 gr TTSX from a baby 7 micro midas and micro medallion with 20 inch barrels.

 

[youttriggered]

Fellow ca hunter here. I’d recommend a different bullet than the ttsx. I’ve had poor results with them. And since we can’t run suppressed not go with a 22-24”?

Which bullets or ammo have you had success with? Someone else mentioned hammer bullets which I will look into.

Definitely considering this, as there is a tikka t3x lite roughtech ember with pre threaded barrel that is 24 inches which gives i can use with or without a brake. Downside is that I think its 7.1 pounds with the brake compared to the superlite roughtech 20inch from EuroOptic. Maybe its a little less without the brake? Apparently the normal lite roughtech has a D18 barrel which is slightly heavier than the 16mm found on the superlite roughtech. Anyone have a measurement?

Speaking of this, has anyone had experience with the sporter barrel profile of the lites/superlites vs the medium heavy profile (D18) of the normal lite roughtechs?

 

[180ls1]

Which bullets or ammo have you had success with? Someone else mentioned hammer bullets which I will look into.

Definitely considering this, as there is a tikka t3x lite roughtech ember with pre threaded barrel that is 24 inches which gives i can use with or without a brake. Downside is that I think its 7.1 pounds with the brake compared to the superlite roughtech 20inch from EuroOptic. Maybe its a little less without the brake? Apparently the normal lite roughtech has a D18 barrel which is slightly heavier than the 16mm found on the superlite roughtech. Anyone have a measurement?

Speaking of this, has anyone had experience with the sporter barrel profile of the lites/superlites vs the medium heavy profile (D18) of the normal lite roughtechs?

The problem is you are stacking the odds against yourself at multiple levels.

Tikka barrels are slow
6.5c is slow
Shorter barrels make it slower

I've personally killed at least a dozen animals with copper and witnessed (friends, family) a lot more than that. Copper has worked well in every scenario for me, that includes hammers, ttsx and Hornady but they have all started above 3K. I'd strongly consider a 6.5prc if I were you.

If you are stuck on the creed I'd get a browning, they have faster twist rates and can be had in a 26" so you can squeeze all the velocity out of it.

 

[youttriggered]

The problem is you are stacking the odds against yourself at multiple levels.

Tikka barrels are slow
6.5c is slow
Shorter barrels make it slower

I've personally killed at least a dozen animals with copper and witnessed (friends, family) a lot more than that. Copper has worked well in every scenario for me, that includes hammers, ttsx and Hornady but they have all started above 3K. I'd strongly consider a 6.5prc if I were you.

If you are stuck on the creed I'd get a browning, they have faster twist rates and can be had in a 26" so you can squeeze all the velocity out of it.

Honestly I am not opposed to getting the same tikka t3x superlite roughtech from EuroOptic chambered in a 6.5 PRC (its a 24 inch barrel). It just seems like sacrificing barrel life, recoil, and ammo availability for higher velocities to target at distance is a bit wasted. Several posters previously have had good velocities with the 6.5CM out 400 yard and I do not envisioning hunting any further than that.


Although you can make the argument that since it is mainly used for hunting, all of these detractors is well worth the extra muzzle velocity for peace of mind.

 

[180ls1]

Honestly I am not opposed to getting the same tikka t3x superlite roughtech from EuroOptic chambered in a 6.5 PRC (its a 24 inch barrel). It just seems like sacrificing barrel life, recoil, and ammo availability for higher velocities to target at distance is a bit wasted. Several posters previously have had good velocities with the 6.5CM out 400 yard and I do not envisioning hunting any further than that.


Although you can make the argument that since it is mainly used for hunting, all of these detractors is well worth the extra muzzle velocity for peace of mind.

I don't see it as a waste, given the way copper kills. Eld-M? Sure.

I also killed a bull @ 431 2 years ago with a copper 124 hammer so there is that.

 

[youttriggered]

I don't see it as a waste, given the way copper kills. Eld-M? Sure.

I also killed a bull @ 431 2 years ago with a copper 124 hammer so there is that.

Honestly after evaluating everyone's experience, I definitely see the value of 6.5 PRC over creedmoor for a hunting rifle. The ammo prices for special ammo is not that much more expensive and it won't be a range gun so why not.

Thanks you for your feedback!

 

[TaperPin]

Honestly after evaluating everyone's experience, I definitely see the value of 6.5 PRC over creedmoor for a hunting rifle. The ammo prices for special ammo is not that much more expensive and it won't be a range gun so why not.

Thanks you for your feedback!

6.5 PRC is a fine hunting cartridge, but it’s not a great training/plinking/fun to shoot cartridge for many people. Since this is your first rifle I wouldn’t recommend it, especially since you commented about not shooting much. If you already had a 6mm of some kind or 6.5 creed, shot it well, and wanted more, then it would be a good choice. On paper the larger cartridge always looks better, but you have to be able to shoot it. Many more people can keep a creed in the closet, pull it out and shoot well, than the PRC. Personally I’d pick the PRC as well, but I’ve given the normal disclaimers and warnings.

You’re probably set on getting the PRC, and there’s nothing wrong with that, just keep it in the back of your mind that if it’s not easy to shoot well right off the bat, with more practice and maybe a different shooting technique you’ll get the hang of it. A piece of carpet pad, thin flip flop, or a commercially available recoil shield makes prone shooting more comfortable if you have boney shoulders.

Have fun with the new rifle - anytime someone gets their first big game rifle I feel excited for them.

 

[youttriggered]

6.5 PRC is a fine hunting cartridge, but it’s not a great training/plinking/fun to shoot cartridge for many people. Since this is your first rifle I wouldn’t recommend it, especially since you commented about not shooting much. If you already had a 6mm of some kind or 6.5 creed, shot it well, and wanted more, then it would be a good choice. On paper the larger cartridge always looks better, but you have to be able to shoot it. Many more people can keep a creed in the closet, pull it out and shoot well, than the PRC. Personally I’d pick the PRC as well, but I’ve given the normal disclaimers and warnings.

You’re probably set on getting the PRC, and there’s nothing wrong with that, just keep it in the back of your mind that if it’s not easy to shoot well right off the bat, with more practice and maybe a different shooting technique you’ll get the hang of it. A piece of carpet pad, thin flip flop, or a commercially available recoil shield makes prone shooting more comfortable if you have boney shoulders.

Have fun with the new rifle - anytime someone gets their first big game rifle I feel excited for them.

Yea totally fair definitely my first big game rifle. I shoot fairly often with my AR and Tikka t1x at the range so definitely just looking for the lightest rifle to backpack into the mountains with.

Will definitely take the time and patience to make cartridge/ rifle work for me. Thanks!

 

[KenLee]

Yea totally fair definitely my first big game rifle. I shoot fairly often with my AR and Tikka t1x at the range so definitely just looking for the lightest rifle to backpack into the mountains with.

Will definitely take the time and patience to make cartridge/ rifle work for me. Thanks!

If $ is an issue, buy a $600 plain Jane x-bolt 270 with 22 inch barrel and spectacular factory recoil pad. Ready to go, cheaper ammo, and same ballistics to 500-600 yards as a 6.5 prc. New caliber often isn't better.

 

[youttriggered]

If $ is an issue, buy a $600 plain Jane x-bolt 270 with 22 inch barrel and spectacular factory recoil pad. Ready to go, cheaper ammo, and same ballistics to 500-600 yards as a 6.5 prc. New caliber often isn't better.

While it is cheaper for normal bullets in .270 than 6.5 PRC. There is no real difference in price of the ammo that I'm allowed to hunt with. Specifically the copper monoliths. Also I'm not too worried about price, I just like min/maxing value.

 

[Norcal18]

Being in Ca I too have gone back and forth 6.5cm vs 6.5 PRC. The PRC kept catching my eyes, but once I really looked at the ballistics and was honest about how far I really wanted to shoot (500 and less), the CM seems to be the oblivious winner. Less recoil, cheaper ammo, and more choices of ammo. Cheaper ammo + less recoil= more chances I’d actually practice. I do already have a .243 and a .308 so it does fit in between for me. If you don’t wanna shoot Barnes there are more options for non-lead. Good luck with your choice!

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[huntsd]

Which bullets or ammo have you had success with? Someone else mentioned hammer bullets which I will look into.

Definitely considering this, as there is a tikka t3x lite roughtech ember with pre threaded barrel that is 24 inches which gives i can use with or without a brake. Downside is that I think its 7.1 pounds with the brake compared to the superlite roughtech 20inch from EuroOptic. Maybe its a little less without the brake? Apparently the normal lite roughtech has a D18 barrel which is slightly heavier than the 16mm found on the superlite roughtech. Anyone have a measurement?

Speaking of this, has anyone had experience with the sporter barrel profile of the lites/superlites vs the medium heavy profile (D18) of the normal lite roughtechs?

I am switching to hammer. But you have to reload for those.

Don’t over think it either a prc or cm will kill fine.

 

[youttriggered]

I am switching to hammer. But you have to reload for those.

Don’t over think it either a prc or cm will kill fine.

Do you find that the hammer or the lehigh controlled chaos ammo that petals out have better expansion at lower velocities than a copper monolith like Barnes LRX? If I can get away with shooting a 6.5 Creedmoor I definitely will take it over a 6.5 PRC haha.