500d vs 1000d

Joined
Nov 25, 2016
Location
Utah
Just need clarification before a purchase:
I believe the number in packs like 500d or 1000d, has to do with the "weight" of a set length of material used that determines if it is 500 or 1000?

With that said, I heard some 500 can actually be stronger and maybe more water tight than 1000, and still be lighter if it is woven tighter.

Can anyone help me if I am wrong on this
AND
Are the Kifaru or other Top Tier packs that are running 500, weaving tighter than the next from your guys opinion based on durability and water proof areas?
Have you, who have both, seen any difference?
Thx
 
500d is more then durable enough and weighs less. 1000d is just overkill unless you are using it for active duty.
 
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I have both 1000D and 500D packs and pouches.

1000D is heavier and stiffer than 500D but as dotman said 500D is durable enough for hunting and most recreational activities. I've read where 500D is more water resistant than 1000D but I've never tested it myself. Neither 500D or 1000D is water proof. If exposed long enough water will soak in.

One thing I've noticed is that pouches and small packs made with 1000D hold their shape better than 500D. In some cases I like that feature but for my hunting pack and pouches I prefer 500D because it compresses smaller and is lighter.
 
With my Kifaru packs, I've preferred the 500D fabric over the 1000D --- I like that it is not as stiff. I can't speak to the waterproofness, though.

I don't know if it holds for the Cordura fabrics, but Kevin at Seek Outside has mentioned that in the standardized Tabor abrasion tests (Taber Abraser - (Wear & Abrasion) - Taber Industries), smooth-faced fabric can do better than course-faced, even though the course/thicker threads are stronger.

In general hunting use that doesn't involve a lot of rock climbing/sliding, I can't see 500D being significantly different than 1000D in terms of durability. In other words, I wouldn't sweat the difference and would choose 500D for the weight savings and fabric feel.
 
What I am wondering is when did Kifaru switch and why is it such a big deal? Over the last several years I have seen people wondering, and rightly so I guess.

I have an early DT1 with the small pockets and the old frame with a single row of pals on the belt. Not even sure if its 500 or 1000, and could care less. All I know is it works as advertised and thats good enough for me.
 
gelton,

I believe when they switched to the 500 it also dropped the weight almost a half pound.
I called Kifaru today and the 22mag weighs 2.5 lbs as another poster here confirmed with his.
Yet on their website the tech spec's still list the pack as 3 lbs, which blew my mind.
So if I buy a used one I was curious about the weight difference from the 500 to the 1000. I don't believe its integrity difference is my biggest concern, but the weight to me is. 8 oz in a day pack is significant enough to me, to notice.

I'm considering eliminating the water bladder and going to a water bottle on the belt.
Anybody else find this a good choice?
 
gelton,

I believe when they switched to the 500 it also dropped the weight almost a half pound.
I called Kifaru today and the 22mag weighs 2.5 lbs as another poster here confirmed with his.
Yet on their website the tech spec's still list the pack as 3 lbs, which blew my mind.
So if I buy a used one I was curious about the weight difference from the 500 to the 1000. I don't believe its integrity difference is my biggest concern, but the weight to me is. 8 oz in a day pack is significant enough to me, to notice.

I'm considering eliminating the water bladder and going to a water bottle on the belt.
Anybody else find this a good choice?

It seems more folks are running a water bottle type setup and getting away from the bladder. Im still using the bladder I believe I can carry more water in the bladder as apposed to run a couple of water bottles. But then again Im not using a Kifaru yet....
 
Heck no would I eliminate the water bladder unless you are out in the winter in sub zero temps. I have a bladder and nalgene, nalgene is for my drink mix and water bladder is to stay hydrated all day without having to find water all the time.
 
Heck no would I eliminate the water bladder unless you are out in the winter in sub zero temps. I have a bladder and nalgene, nalgene is for my drink mix and water bladder is to stay hydrated all day without having to find water all the time.

This is how I do it.
 
All of my old Kifaru gear was 1000d, and my EDC antero is 1000d. The 1000d is stiffer, but it becomes much more pliable as it gets worn in. This is very obvious for EDC packs since they get used constantly.
 
Denier is how much, in grams, 9000 meters of a given yarn/thread weighs.

Factors other than denier do impact how a fabric performs, but it's still relevant. For massive abrasion resistance there's no substitute thick, high denier fabric. Very few users need more than 500D cordura offers in this department.
 
What Dave said.

Denier and fabric weight are not directly linked, but they are strongly connected. Denier and durability are linked but the link is not linear. When you look at 330d, 500d, 750d, and 1000d it is easier to see the big picture. Theoretically it is suggested that 750d has the best actual strength to weight ratio, but 330d is a larger percentage of both the weight and durability of 500d then what the denier would suggest.
 
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