4mm VS 5mm VS 6mm

[fatlander]

Has anyone had issues with the Easton match half outs, that have the integrated collars on either the 4 or 5? I’m testing them on my 5.0s, they seem pretty well built.

I’ve put them in some arrows for clients over the last few years and I’ve got them in a set of my own arrows. They’ve been awesome.

I still think 4 and 5mm arrows are solutions looking for a problem. Gold tip hunters or Easton 6.5 with brass inserts are more than adequate for hunting. It’s sort of like rifles. Do you really need anything more than a tikka t3x, Harris bipod, and SWFA optic, for the money? It’s a free country, and you can do whatever you please. But the overwhelming majority of people don’t need anything more than to be effective hunting.


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[wysongdog]

I’m a 4mm guy here in Wyoming we always have a breeze lol. Not sure how much difference it actually makes but the only downfalls I’ve encountered is not a good solid lighted nock, and kinda pia for fletching.

 

[trevore]

Favorite 6 mm I ever shot were the old acc pro hunters. It took me a long time to go through 2 dozen of them. Most of the 6’s I’ve messed with lately have been lighter and thinner side walled than I want to deal with

I wish they would bring those back. The AC construction is the most consistent arrow I've ever shot. Just purchased the parallel pro to try. Don't really like the 4mm but the AC is the best I've shot

 

[Kurts86]

I just got back into archery and my biggest take away is that 4mm arrows are absolute penetration monsters with field tips on foam targets. I found myself buying a new target within days of getting 4mm arrows. The smaller shaft almost requires an arrow puller.

 

[CMF]

I've seen lots of "issues" mentioned over 4mm, like components breaking, etc., but I haven't broken any more and probably less than the maxima red sd's I was shooting before. I mean if you shoot a rock or your arrow doesn't pass through, the animal is probably breaking it regardless of the type.
The only issue I've had is pulling them out of a bag target due to the outsert.

 

[BLACKTAIL 8541]

I have stuck with the 6mm diameter since my reintroduction to archery in 2012. I purchased Easton ACCs. Picked up a couple dozen of the Epic series of arrows and now the Sonics. I like the diameter, performance and standard inserts

 

[grandmasboy]

I try to use 4mm arrows every year and always find myself hunting with a 5mm by the time the season rolls around. I have a terrible time with half outs and just wish deep six was a bigger thing. I tried the Snyder core from iron will this past year and had really bad luck with tuning. I want my annihilators in deep six…

 

[jmez]

If the wind is blowing your arrows enough to significantly effect aiming point you can't hold your bow steady. I looked at the study length and didn't see a chart or any hard data for the diameter portion. Only the referenced paragraph.

 

[Pramo]

6mm are really hard to beat for ease of install, tuning and price. This year I broke my own rule an got some Axis 4mm match for $8 an arrow from a store getting out of the archery business. I'll kick myself sooner or later for buying them but gonna try some glue in Evolution heads with them

The best all around arrow is still Axis, I just hate paying so much since I see no need for collars but still want the .001 specs. So slowly moving over to Easton Sonics match. Took a spin with 5.0 last year and they are super weak arrows on impacts of any kind

 

[Beendare]

A 10% advantage to 4mm? I'm skeptical.

I shot 4mm for many years back in the 90's in tourneys....so I'm well acquainted. The glue in tips on those 4mm shafts are pretty sleek...and thats where shooting a 4mm shaft has some advantage. Slap a BH on there and it's a whole different animal due to the components which is the weak spot in that whole 4mm system.

Now, if you spend the big bucks for precision components, you can have a pretty good arrow....at a much higher cost over the 5mm and 6mm that take std components.

I think a quality 5mm shaft is the sweet spot ....assuming you take care in precision assembly.

That said, I shoot the 6mm shafts for 2 reasons; 1) They are so much cheaper and I like to shoot in the woods without having to worry about a lost arrow, the difference in wind and other factors is a non issue since I don't shoot long bowhunting shots over about 55y. I've seen durability issues with the sub 9 GPI shafts, but over that, the 6mm are very durable.

There is no doubt a 3D guy that shoots long 70y plus shots will see a slight benefit from 4mm with the glue in points.

As many stated above, anyone who has shot in a strong cross wind knows that holding your bow is the main factor...not how much the wind affects your arrow. Hunting the Kodiak mtns for Sitka blacktail and we have had windy days that were so severe we couldn't hunt because we couldn't hold our bows steady.

 

[Xperimental]

I shot both 4/5mm and the only difference is a bit lighter arrow in the 4mm. Helps a bit on those 100yd pronghorn shots.

 

[DC93]

Starting out in archery the worst decision I ever did was use Vap tkos as my first arrow. Hard to use anything else after that

 

[insanelupus]

After nearly 15 years bow hunting, I'm switching from .264" (GT Hunter Pro) to .204" arrows. I considered going .166" but did not want to mess with halfouts. I'm short draw and always trying to improve penetration. My current set up is a 495 grain total arrow weight at 250 fps. That arrow weight comes at a cost of trajectory that makes yardage judgement paramount, especially when shooting in the timber.

This year I'm saving up and building out Victory RIP TKOs, with a TAW of about 445 gains and speed should be around the 260+ fps mark, 16% FOC. Podium archer HIT inserts & collars, Flex Fletch 360 vanes, AAE IP5 nock and a Grim Reaper Micro Hades Pro. It won't be awesome at all things, but it should come close to Goldilocks enough in most things to be a good, reliable set up for my elk hunting. And bonus, a trajectory I have liked better in the past.

My bow is old (2011 model Bowtech Invasion, 26.5" draw & 70lbs), but getting new strings and cables. I'll be resetting the rest for the new arrow.

My expectation of this set up, a relatively quiet and very stable and well corrected arrow with great odds at a pass through with great shot placement of course, is the hope.

I think often like all other areas in life, my expectations of my equipment are built on my limited knowledge, rather than the equipment itself. Trial and error is a great instructor and we've never lived in an age where so much info can be learned before investment as we do now.

What's the old adage? There is no perfect answer, only the compromise you are willing to live with, I believe.

Perhaps 4mm vs. 5mm vs. 6/6.5 mm arrows fall along those same lines?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

After nearly 15 years bow hunting, I'm switching from .264" (GT Hunter Pro) to .204" arrows. I considered going .166" but did not want to mess with halfouts. I'm short draw and always trying to improve penetration. My current set up is a 495 grain total arrow weight at 250 fps. That arrow weight comes at a cost of trajectory that makes yardage judgement paramount, especially when shooting in the timber.

This year I'm saving up and building out Victory RIP TKOs, with a TAW of about 445 gains and speed should be around the 260+ fps mark, 16% FOC. Podium archer HIT inserts & collars, Flex Fletch 360 vanes, AAE IP5 nock and a Grim Reaper Micro Hades Pro. It won't be awesome at all things, but it should come close to Goldilocks enough in most things to be a good, reliable set up for my elk hunting. And bonus, a trajectory I have liked better in the past.

If that's what you want to do, go for it. But if your primary goal is just a lighter arrow, there are much cheaper ways to shave off 50 gr than buying new $200/dozen shafts with $100/dozen inserts.

 

[insanelupus]

If that's what you want to do, go for it. But if your primary goal is just a lighter arrow, there are much cheaper ways to shave off 50 gr than buying new $200/dozen shafts with $100/dozen inserts.

You are correct, there are. But there was far more at play, for me, than simply 50 grains.

 

[fatlander]

After nearly 15 years bow hunting, I'm switching from .264" (GT Hunter Pro) to .204" arrows. I considered going .166" but did not want to mess with halfouts. I'm short draw and always trying to improve penetration. My current set up is a 495 grain total arrow weight at 250 fps. That arrow weight comes at a cost of trajectory that makes yardage judgement paramount, especially when shooting in the timber.

This year I'm saving up and building out Victory RIP TKOs, with a TAW of about 445 gains and speed should be around the 260+ fps mark, 16% FOC. Podium archer HIT inserts & collars, Flex Fletch 360 vanes, AAE IP5 nock and a Grim Reaper Micro Hades Pro. It won't be awesome at all things, but it should come close to Goldilocks enough in most things to be a good, reliable set up for my elk hunting. And bonus, a trajectory I have liked better in the past.

My bow is old (2011 model Bowtech Invasion, 26.5" draw & 70lbs), but getting new strings and cables. I'll be resetting the rest for the new arrow.

My expectation of this set up, a relatively quiet and very stable and well corrected arrow with great odds at a pass through with great shot placement of course, is the hope.

I think often like all other areas in life, my expectations of my equipment are built on my limited knowledge, rather than the equipment itself. Trial and error is a great instructor and we've never lived in an age where so much info can be learned before investment as we do now.

What's the old adage? There is no perfect answer, only the compromise you are willing to live with, I believe.

Perhaps 4mm vs. 5mm vs. 6/6.5 mm arrows fall along those same lines?

I agree with [mention]Mighty Mouse [/mention]you’re chasing what boils down to a non detect in real world scenarios.

If the wind is blowing hard enough for you to see the ~10% decrease in wind efficiency, you can’t hold your bow well enough to shoot at the distances required for that difference to show up.

I’m perplexed as to how (and maybe why) you were shooting such a heavy gold tip hunter arrow anyway. I shoot 2” more draw length than you, run 175 grains up front, and my standard diameter arrows finish out at 485 grains at 29”carbon to carbon. You should be a spine size lower and 2-4” shorter on total arrow length. How did you build a heavier arrow?

You could easily build a 420-440 grain standard diameter arrow and buy tags or gas with the money saved.


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