3d printed Tikka 223 mags

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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FYI, someone on makerworld posted up a model for a 3d printed tikka 223 mag. I've been messing around remixing it for personal use, I need to reach out to the person to see if they will allow a remix to be posted up on makerworld. If so I'm curious what features folks would want retained/deleted.

Its designed based off a printed spring which is gonna have limited lifespan/durability rather than a factory spring or other metal spring. But it seemed like a good starting point to play with. I printed the original version and it snaps into my guns just fine, trying it with a factory spring is too spacious and allows the follower to nosedive cause the spring moves around. I did some basic edits on a mesh import of their file to capture the factory spring and it seemed to work fine in my limited playing.

I didn't see the point in having a removable bottom when using the factory spring (which can insert through the top) so I reworked the body to have a solid bottom and simplify the print. depending on what type of after market springs someone wanted to mess around with retaining the removable bottom would be useful though.

I printed out a solid bottom version with all the sidewall stippling and window removed. I could go either way on the stippling but don't see the point in having a window notched into a 4rd mag that you can clearing see down into.

If the original designer allows for remixes this could be a solid starting point for the community to figure out a reliable spring source to pair with DIY longer COAL mags.

Below are some dummy round 75eldm loaded at ~2.45". The seem to cycle just fine in the couple dozen cycles I've ran though so far. That is far from torture tested but so far so good on a fun free thing to play with.

Original file:
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Solid bottom and follower remix, no stipling and no window:
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Intent in bottom to help hold the spring in place, in addition to capturing it on the underside of the follower:
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Those look good. If there was a good source for factory magazine springs I’d be all over it
 
I've been having fun messing around with this further. I removed the tabs on the bottom and chamfered/radiused it (as much as feasible with printing in mind). I mirrored the stippling to both sides. I noticed on my long actions the bolt was clipping the back of the mag (when I tested for fit) which I don't think the original designer noticed on a 223 action/stop so I removed a channel of material at the rear of the mag to remove that contact as I presume the bolt body was rubbing there unnoticed previously.

I'm playing around with extending the feed lips inwards some to better address regular PLA flexing a bit and allowing the rounds to get out of position when that happens. I don't personally like PLA a ton but its stiffer than regular PETG, ASA, etc. I ordered a roll of glass fiber PETG to play around with which should be a bit stiffer yet hopefully still fairly easy to print (don't need to heat the enclosure, etc.).

Anyways, having fun messing around with this. :)

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Here is the follower from a 19911 mag. Maybe adding some ‘legs’ to both ends, or possibly just the rear, of the follower will help prevent the nosedive?
 

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Here is the follower from a 19911 mag. Maybe adding some ‘legs’ to both ends, or possibly just the rear, of the follower will help prevent the nosedive?
The nose dive was correct as soon as I captured the tikka spring like a factory follower does. The original model the person posted used a 3D printed spring that likely filled up the area better, the smooth bottom follower would slip on the spring.
 
If you could make these for creeds and prcs that fit perfectly flush to the stock, I’d be all over them. I don’t care if I lose a round of capacity. Especially if you can somehow use the factory spring from an existing mag. All I want is a perfectly flush tikka mag that doesn’t extent at all.
 
The original STL had a bunch of filleting applied to it which was making it difficult to modify when working backwards from a mesh conversion and I wanted to alter the feed lips gripping the front of the case more. That file probably works best with some stiffer filaments. I ended up grabbing a tikka mag stl off thingiverse and used that less complex wireframe conversion to get back to blocky corners to then design off instead (hope that makes sense). Features are still inspired by the original designer but this mag file is built off a different open source foundation now.

The petg glass fiber seems to be printing well and is as stiff / slightly stiffer than pla was and definately stiffer than regular petg. The tapered/rounded body fits pretty nicely in the bottom metal imho, I did a version with some knurling similar to the original file but I didn't apply it as high up on the magazine thinking it'd help stiffen the feed lip area. Takes a tad longer to print but not very much. I'm trying little tweaks here and there still on feed lips and some dims. The last version the last round rear would sometimes slip under the bolt face, so I pushed the feed lips back a little and want to see how that functions. Definately a little bit of a balancing act to grip the case body enough with the flexibility of these materials in mind yet not sinking the front of the case down too far so that it slips under the bolt face. Stiffer materials would help but I'm hoping for a design that is more user friendly for folks to mess around with and not require some of the higher end filaments.

If/when that is dialed in then it opens the door to mess with alternative springs if folks wanted to mess with that.

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If you could make these for creeds and prcs that fit perfectly flush to the stock, I’d be all over them. I don’t care if I lose a round of capacity. Especially if you can somehow use the factory spring from an existing mag. All I want is a perfectly flush tikka mag that doesn’t extent at all.
Do you got a printer to mess around with it? Seems feasible, just maybe some iterations on feed lips perhaps.

What I did above with reworking the mag body feels pretty good to my hand in terms of protrusion, what is your motivation/design consideration around completely flat?
 
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