308 vs. 30-06 under 400 yards

165g copper bullets seem heavy for a 308. The only copper bullets I shoot from my 308 are the 130g ttsx and for awhile, the 137g hammer hunter. Both of those get good speed out of my 18” 308.

I shoot a lot of 30-06, I never shoot copper from it, just 180g ABs and partitions but if I was shooting copper from it, the heaviest I’d choose would be 150g, probably the ttsx.

I personally don’t think Barnes is a good choice for factory ammo, if your gun shoots them well then good but I’m my experience I’ve had better accuracy with them when I can vary the searing depth. You can’t do that with factory ammo.
 
With lead bullets, the difference is irrelevant, but I would probably give the very slight nod to the 308.

With monos, you want all the speed you can get, so there is a slight edge to the 3006.
 
Thank you. I live in CA so I need non-lead unfortunately or I’d be shooting ELDX. Already have a Maven RS1.2 and a Trijicon Tenmile 3-18. Will move one to the new rifle.

Factory Barnes 130 ttsx out of my 16” Ruger American was doing 2925ish and the barrel was brand new. Out of a 20” I would expect to be hitting that 3000 fps mark. That’s potent medicine for any deer or black bear even at 400 yards. Should still be around 2050-2150 fps at that range which is plenty for expansion (depending on your elevation).

I’ve also shot 123gr Lapua ammo from a 30-06 and it was way more mild than 165s from a 308. So 130 ttsx from a 30-06 would be super nice and you will have a little more on the top side if you ever go down that road.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I did not read every subsequent post but a handful of them. If you shoot 400 rounds a month you should buy reloading equipment. Copper really neuters you. What I would do if I were you is get a 6.5 creedmoor and some reloading equipment and buy some Cayuga or apex outdoor bullets. These bullets are designed to fracture and expand at lower velocity and they have way higher bcs. Id also argue you do not need to shoot 400 rounds a month off a bench or prone. Alternatively 100 rounds positional shooting will do you great. Id recommend shooting off a backpack, bipod and tripod to simulate actual field shots. This is more advice for shooting better not hunting. Some of the best hunters I know are not amazing marksmen they are amazing hunters and you don't need to be a great Marksman to be a good hunter. Most of the people I know who are very successful shoot stuff at 50-200 yards for the most part. A lot of them 25-50 yards because they only do bow hunting now. Id also plan to invest in a good scope with exposed elevation turrets. At 600 yards as long as wind is not crazy 600 yards with a 6.5 creedmoor is a chip shot. Tall grass is your biggest enemy. For powder hands down h4350. You should be able to find starline brass very easily and it will do the trick. There is no real major difference between 30-06 and 308 especially with factory ammo. I would lean 308 but 6.5 will smoke both of them.
 
If most of my shots are inside of 400 yards, will the animal be more likely to drop faster if both bullets hit the same spot with a 180 grain 30-06 vs 165 grain 308?
For a deer/bear rifle I run the 168TTSX or the 175LRX over the 180ttsx. The min expansion velocity for the 168 is 1800fps and the 175LRX is 1600fps. You need speed to expand especially with coppers.
 
.308 will be the staple for many decades to come so it will stay cheap and abundant. It's shorter action so you can get lighter rifle as well. 30-06 is more powerful but that difference is what that bullet loses in 30 meters of flight (meaning 308 at 100 meters is the same as 30-06 at 130 meters).

Just get .308 unless you want something more powerful then think about .300win mag.
Not true in a Tikka- all actions are the same Long action
 
I currently have a 308 Tikka CTR (20 inch barrel) that I'm shooting 165 grain trophy coppers out of. It's a little heavy and I'm going to pick up a new T3x lite (with the factory threads) to build a new rifle but can't decide between 308 and 30-06.
Sounds like you are using the T3x lite as a donor action? What would your "build" consist of?

If you are using the Tikka I would go 30-06 for the simple reason all Tikka's are built on the the same "long" action. If you go 308 its just a shorter bolt stop and a 0.5" plug in the magazine to get short action cartridges to feed.

Might as well take full advantage of the magazine length and bolt in a 30-06. if you handload you can down load it to 308 velocity pretty easy anyway. Also gives you the options to go faster as well if you want it (maybe save you another "magnum" rifle in the future. plus you already have the 308 ctr
 
IMG_0493.jpegThis is just an FYI for Barnes consumers. This is an article, from their website, from their “ballistic lab and R&D supervisor”.

Whatever they recommend as a minimum velocity, add 200 fps. I know some experienced users recommend 2000fps as an impact velocity.
 
For your use, I'd grab a 22 inch x-bolt 300wsm and bust em with 150 gr monos.
Recoil is a pussycat. Anyone that says a 308 Tikka has less felt recoil either hasn't shot both, or is a liar. Tikkas kick hard for caliber.
 
Sounds like you are using the T3x lite as a donor action? What would your "build" consist of?

If you are using the Tikka I would go 30-06 for the simple reason all Tikka's are built on the the same "long" action. If you go 308 its just a shorter bolt stop and a 0.5" plug in the magazine to get short action cartridges to feed.

Might as well take full advantage of the magazine length and bolt in a 30-06. if you handload you can down load it to 308 velocity pretty easy anyway. Also gives you the options to go faster as well if you want it (maybe save you another "magnum" rifle in the future. plus you already have the 308 ctr

I put in an order for an XLR chassis. I think the issue is the magwell on that one. They seem to have diff sizes for SA/LA on tikka even though the action length is the same.
 
For your use, I'd grab a 22 inch x-bolt 300wsm and bust em with 150 gr monos.
Recoil is a pussycat. Anyone that says a 308 Tikka has less felt recoil either hasn't shot both, or is a liar. Tikkas kick hard for caliber.
Trying to stick to calibers where I won't burn out the barrel practicing at the range in <1 year.
 
You need speed for the copper bullets. Get the fastest and lightest. Gonna punch all the way thru.

Retained energy doesnt work here. Id worry about it w elk but not deer pigs bear.
 
Back
Top