2015 Yukon XL - Repair or Replace (strut and AC issues)?

[fwafwow]

TL;DR - above-referenced GMC with 113k miles. Current problems are A/C (again) and struts (again). Have an appointment at the dealer on Monday, so I don't know how much repairs will cost, but expect they are repeats of some of the below repairs. Time to get a new vehicle, or repair? More detail below. TIA for any help!

All maintenance has been done on time and by the dealer. There have been other maintenance and repair items (including on the below 3 dates), but I'm focusing on the AC and struts only on this post.

Struts/Axle -

• Right rear axle seal replaced 3/23 at 90k miles - ~$650 ($600 of labor) and both front and rear "differential service" for $160 x 2
• Front strut Replaced 11/23 at 99k miles for ~$2100 - $350 of which was labor
• 9/24 at 106k miles - wife complained to dealer (again) about knocking noise when making sharp turn - dealer couldn't replicate and told her the vehicle isn't designed for "off road". (The most "off road" the vehicle has ever seen is a gravel road.) But they replaced a broken front swaybar for $250

AC -

• 3/23 - ~$1k spent on AC (compressor hose replacement for $650 and A/C "system recover/recharge" for $300)
• 11/23 - $1200 spent on compressor hose replaced and AC system evac and recharge

 

[zr600]

Well since it’s out of warranty? If so I would consider taking to a non dealer shop proably save some money maybe there possibility, I would seriously consider the struts doing myself, for $2100 you could be some really good struts like fox or bilstein that are adjustable coilover and that would proably include rears at that price. And if you’re not interested in them you could get some factory replacements from parts store and install yourself to save a big chunk of money. Or look at buying a different vechicle depending on what you want or what you want to spend.

 

[fwafwow]

Well since it’s out of warranty? If so I would consider taking to a non dealer shop proably save some money maybe there possibility, I would seriously consider the struts doing myself, for $2100 you could be some really good struts like fox or bilstein that are adjustable coilover and that would proably include rears at that price. And if you’re not interested in them you could get some factory replacements from parts store and install yourself to save a big chunk of money. Or look at buying a different vechicle depending on what you want or what you want to spend.

Thanks. It's definitely out of warranty - but maybe at least some of the prior repairs might still be recent enough that I can convince the dealer to do any similar work for free. Maybe. And I'm not competent to do the work myself.

I am not going to otherwise have the dealer do any AC or strut work without checking with an independent, and I found some info on Reddit about how the struts are a known problem, and some 3rd party options.

The larger problem is "repair vs. replace" - sort of like a home AC unit. Repair one part and you are replacing the entire unit in a year anyway. Here the concern is nickel and diming (except $1k here, $3k there) and wondering what the next shoe to fall is. Historically we have bailed for new around 100k-120k miles, but I believe there is a 200k mile possibility here. BUT, it's a GMC. If this was a Toyota, it would be different calculus.

And this is Mrs. fwafwow's vehicle, so if there is a "replace" we are looking at a good bit of change. I do admit I like the Lexus GX550...

 

[Ucsdryder]

depending on what you buy, I’m assuming a similar but newer vehicle, you’ll never justify the cost because “repairs are too expensive”. Increased registration, 7-9% interest, significant depreciation and $500-1000 a month in principal pays for a lot of repairs. A new engine or tranny is one thing, but a 1000 here and there is another… oh and I’m on the DIY train too.

 

[chizelhead]

I think GM quality has been on a downward trend for a while. My family has had suburbans for 50+ years. I sold our last one a few weeks ago before the recall. Even though your vintage is not part of the recall, it still likely has other quality issues lurking such as lifter failures. I would seriously consider replacing it.

 

[StuckInTheEast]

Just for perspective...you could have a quality reman engine and transmission installed, replace the whole AC system and entire front steering/suspension and still only spend roughly 1/4 the cost of a new similar replacement...options are fix it as it breaks and hope you come out ahead with no major engine/trans failures as long as you want to keep it...or eat the cost of a new one every 5 years or so when warranty is up and write off the depreciation as peace of mind.
Yours is likely no less reliable than anything similar made by any manufacturer the last 3-4 years or currently.
If your concern is reliability on long trips/out of town just rent something for travel and keep the current rig forvmore local driving or like stated above, get in the habit of trading up every 5 years or 60k miles once the powertrain warranty expires. Even that doesn't guarantee you won't get stuck out of town with a broken down vehicle that the dealer cant get parts for even though it's under warranty.
There is no silver bullet for vehicles anymore. Id have less faith in a gm product than a few others, but really nothing that impresses me available new presently from anyone for half ton truck/suv.

Mechanical quality is down, add on features, convenience items and cost to repair are up across the board. Do whatever makes you feel more secure or fits your budget better presently.

 

[rookieforever33]

Why the same re pairs twice in the same year for the ac? And now you need it again? Time for a new mechanic

 

[Steve300xcw]

Obviously you aren't going to be doing the repairs yourself. GTFO of that dealer. Go find a decent lil mom n pop shop

 

[RDF1]

$2100 for a single strut is insane. Its 5 Bolts and 30 minutes tops to R/R.

Is it the same AC hose that was replaced 8 months later?

 

[eddielasvegas]

Find an ASE certified mechanic that's not the dealership. Get a 2nd opinion on all repairs.

Is the vehicle rust and body damage free and overall good condition? If so, then in almost all circumstances, it is more cost effective to repair vs. replace.

Here's another way to look at it: Let's say you spend $3,000 on these repairs and it gets you 3 more years out of your car. That's under $100/month as a payment (since you'd probably finance its replacement, right?). No way you'll come close to buying a replacement for that.

I drive a 24 year old 4Runner and a 33 year old Miata and both are ready to drive across country tomorrow. Granted they are older Japan build vehicles that I've maintained, but me thinks your Yukon should be good for 200k miles without breaking the bank.

Good luck,

Eddie

 

[JDPAPA]

I have a 2104 Silverado and 2017 Yukon and I NEVER go to the “stealership” for regular service. To them the only good customer is the one that does everything they recommend. I worked with a dealership mechanic for many years and know about the inside shortcuts and how those learnings are passed on to new techs. You don’ t necessarily get the best techs and service at your dealership.
There is a known issue with the AC condenser coils in those trucks that was covered under a recall or TSB and I had ours replaced in the Yukon for free and of course there were rags left under the hood and the service caps were left off of the ports etc.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

You're coming right into the window where the transmission is going to crap out. Happened to me on a 17 suburban at 109k, and to my buddy on a 15 suburban at 117k.

But also, it's not like the new options are actually any better. If you need a full size suv the gm options are basically the only ones. Maybe if 47 cancels the epa we can get diesel excursions again, but I'm not holding my breath for that.

 

[ceejay]

For issues with A/C and suspension I would find a good independent shop. You don't need a dealership trained mechanic to correctly fix those things and you will save a substantial amount of money. If you can DIY the front struts with a preassembled strut assembly, then go that route.

Unfortunately, I would also be worried about the GM transmission in that mileage range.

 

[cuerro viejo]

If you have the stupid POS magnaride shocks….. delete them

Which the cost you are quoting from experience you do…. I should have done it after first pair went out.

2015-2020 Yukon Bilstein 5100 Magneride Delete Kit

Our most popular seller! This is our magneride delete kit using Bilstein 5100 series front struts, Bilstein 5100 series rear shocks, and our magneride delete module. Struts come fully loaded with springs and upper mounts already assembled. No need to mess with a spring compressor! This...

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Fox is a little firmer then Bilstein and taller, but both out last the magna 3x mileage

in 2015 Bought wife new suburban LTZ, now has 210k. AC and shocks are the biggest issues, had exact same.

 

[cuerro viejo]

$2100 for a single strut is insane. Its 5 Bolts and 30 minutes tops to R/R.

Is it the same AC hose that was replaced 8 months later?

It’s the shock it’s self from GM. The knock off magnaride are $1000. Toss in wheel alignment, etc and you can see why.

The delete option with fox or Bilstein are less for all 4 and will last 3x the mileage. Biggest thing is having the modules to over ride shock sensors.

 

[fwafwow]

Why the same re pairs twice in the same year for the ac? And now you need it again? Time for a new mechanic

I think it was two different hoses, but that's a question that (this time) I will have for the dealership.

 

[Billy Goat]

Delete the weather channel, Mrs Fwafwow will no longer think she's a storm chaser.


Problem solved.

 

[fwafwow]

Thanks to all who have chimed in. The current plan is for me to go with Mrs. fwafwow to the dealership on Monday morning. If they diagnose anything and agree to repair without cost, I will have them do it. Otherwise I will take it to an independent shop.

Is it the same AC hose that was replaced 8 months later?

I don't think so.

Find an ASE certified mechanic that's not the dealership. Get a 2nd opinion on all repairs.

Will do.

Is the vehicle rust and body damage free and overall good condition? If so, then in almost all circumstances, it is more cost effective to repair vs. replace.

There is no rust or body damage, apart from the normal wear and tear, grocery cart dings, etc.

Here's another way to look at it: Let's say you spend $3,000 on these repairs and it gets you 3 more years out of your car. That's under $100/month as a payment (since you'd probably finance its replacement, right?). No way you'll come close to buying a replacement for that.

I drive a 24 year old 4Runner and a 33 year old Miata and both are ready to drive across country tomorrow. Granted they are older Japan build vehicles that I've maintained, but me thinks your Yukon should be good for 200k miles without breaking the bank.

I'm leaning towards repair, but will report back after Monday.

You're coming right into the window where the transmission is going to crap out. Happened to me on a 17 suburban at 109k, and to my buddy on a 15 suburban at 117k.

But also, it's not like the new options are actually any better. If you need a full size suv the gm options are basically the only ones. Maybe if 47 cancels the epa we can get diesel excursions again, but I'm not holding my breath for that.

No need for a full size anymore - the kids are grown and gone. Maybe a regular size Yukon, Lexus GX 550, Toyota - not yet ready to go down that rabbit hole. But I see it looming!

 

[aMurderOfCrows]

It’s the shock it’s self from GM. The knock off magnaride are $1000. Toss in wheel alignment, etc and you can see why.

The delete option with fox or Bilstein are less for all 4 and will last 3x the mileage. Biggest thing is having the modules to over ride shock sensors.

I haven’t really had issues with dealerships, it’s the independents that I’ve always felt were trying to screw me over. With that said, people should do a little research.

I had a broken shock on my F250. Ford wanted 700 for just the 2 front shocks!! I knew that was BS. I bought a nice set of four Fox 2.0 for a hundred more and did it in the driveway. A set of Bilstein 5100 was about half that.


A couple questions and a few minutes on the internet really helps.

 

[cuerro viejo]

I haven’t really had issues with dealerships, it’s the independents that I’ve always felt were trying to screw me over. With that said, people should do a little research.

I had a broken shock on my F250. Ford wanted 700 for just the 2 front shocks!! I knew that was BS. I bought a nice set of four Fox 2.0 for a hundred more and did it in the driveway. A set of Bilstein 5100 was about half that.


A couple questions and a few minutes on the internet really helps.

Problem with the magna ride shocks are not just that the are absurdly expensive but labor intensive to change over springs etc. they factory magnaride ones aren’t plug and play for most part, but regardless the shocks are extremely expensive. Anything electric are.