200 yard zero Questions ..

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Jan 26, 2017
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308 should have much less recoil, and thus be easier to shoot. Plug your loads and rifles into a recoil calculator and see for yourself,

Good scopes are basically nightforce, swfa and trijicon. Much more info here: https://rokslide.com/forums/forums/rifle-scope-field-evaluations.133/
 
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Jun 15, 2017
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Any scope you would suggest in the case it starts giving me issues ? I’d like to be able to shoot the gun well at 1-400 yards. Would it be much better stepping down to a .308? I love the gun and enjoy shooting it.
There are tens of thousands of VX-5's holding zero and dialing fine. Like I said you said the L word in the LR forum so get ready lol. Having said that, I don't think that's your issue here for lots of reasons anyway.
 
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CanuckOutdoors
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There are tens of thousands of VX-5's holding zero and dialing fine. Like I said you said the L word in the LR forum so get ready lol. Having said that, I don't think that's your issue here for lots of reasons anyway.
Plan is to get out to the range a bunch before I go on my moose hunt and possibly put my stock dial back on the scope and dead zero the gun at 100. And practice at 100-250 yards with adjusting the scope.
 
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By all means if it won't hold zero then warranty replace it and sell it and put something else on there but you have a lot of other things to try before getting to that point.
 

Macintosh

WKR
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Feb 17, 2018
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That scope has both a zero stop and a locking turret, correct? Can you just set the zero stop a few clicks to the right of the "200"? If you measure that your 200 yard group is, just for example, 1.2moa (5 clicks) below point of aim with a 100-yard zero, just set the zero stop 5 clicks right of the 200 on the dial. Then you have a 100 yard zero based on your more precise group size that is less affected by wind, etc, and if you want to walk around with a MPBR zero just turn the dial to 200 and let it lock there, and after you verify the turret numbers at varous ranges you can still dial where it's more appropriate.
 
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Overdrive

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If it was me I'd lower your 100 yard to 1" high, looking at your 200 yard group looks to be around 2" to center of group when you average the shots. By going down 1" at 100 that's 2"" at 200 should pull you where you want to be, then make any adjustments to your center of bullet grouping.

A couple things that helped my longer range zeros and shooting are a lighter trigger and muzzlebreaks (lots opt for a can now)

More range time will get you there!
 

eric1115

WKR
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What muzzle velocity is that turret calibrated for? Do you know your MV? How close are altitude and temp to where you'll be using it?

Has nothing to do with zeroing, but a lot to do with how well it's going to work once it is zeroed.

Only thing I'll comment on the VX5 is that you could easily spend a large portion of the cost of a very reliable scope on ammo trying to track down a mechanical issue that very often does affect these scopes. It would be super easy to shoot $200-300 worth of .300WM Barnes ammo trying to figure out whether it's you, the rifle, or the scope causing issues.

10 shot groups to zero (absolute minimum of 5) to find a real center of the group, get off the lead sled, and most importantly lots of practice with a less expensive and lower recoiling round (think .223, or maybe 6.5CM/.308) would be my recommendation for proficiency with a hunting weight .300WM.
 

dancyr3

FNG
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Apr 17, 2023
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ADA COUNTY IDAHO
Need some insight from some more experienced shooters.. I got a Tikka T3X 300 WM with a VX5 that came with a custom turret for Barnes TTSX 180gr. Dial starts at 200 yards so I’m trying to achieve a zero at that range. I want to be able to use the dial and would like to be able to hold dead on for upto 3-350 yards. I am having a hard time getting my groups tight at 200 yards. Any insight or tips for shooting or setup would be greatly appreciated! All shots have been out of a lead sled with a cold barrel.
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I’ve always had better luck using sandbags for both the front and rear of the rifle. I shoot a bigger round and I use a pad between rifle and shoulder because it does take a lot of rounds to figure out a rifle. I shoot three at the same target and while you’re messing with scope, let the gun cool. If the rifle gets too hot it may affect accuracy and typically you’re not gonna be hunting with a hot rifle
 

JjamesIII

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Your scattering bullets at 200 on the range under ideal conditions compared to what you’ll experience in a hunt. I wouldn’t be worried about a 200 yard zero at this point, it looks like that is your maximum effective range. No offense, but expect a lot worse performance in the field. I’d expect to get at least double the shot size from the field compared to the range in real world.
If you can get to the point where that rifle( in YOUR hands) can shoot around an moa, then consider an extended range zero.

For what it’s worth, I shoot long range steel comps and still set all my rifles up for a 100 yard zero because it simplifies having all of my guns at a known zero. Muzzy, ar’s, bolt guns…. I don’t worry about which is zeroed in at various specific ranges. I fooled with extended range zeros for the advantage of aiming on center of mass further out, if you know your dope, it really isn’t an advantage and you’ll still be referencing drop charts if you have the abilities to send it at an animal at the longer ranges.
 

Karlburns

FNG
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Aug 14, 2020
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I’ll assume you shot the 100 yard and then the 200 yard shots but was anyone watching to see if you are flinching? I’ve got a tikka t3 in 300 win mag. It is the only gun that I’d flinch shooting. After two shoulder surgeries it just pounds the shoulder. I had a hell of a time zeroing it until I figured out it was me. Muzzle braked it and now it’s not bad at all. Pisses off everyone around me when I shoot it but my shoulder feels fine.
 

Rich M

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When im gonna shoot a lot, will take a full sized towel and fold it for cushioning.

My 3006 is a beast, killed a VX-3i and a Lieca ER. Cant kill a VX-2 tho. Not off a sled, just sandbags.
 

Pdog06

Lil-Rokslider
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First shoot it without the sled and see if it repeats the issue. Obviously A 300wm likes to recoil back and the lead sled is stopping that, so that energy has to go elsewhere. And the scope is it. So it could be the scope failing and not holding zero, but could also be the scope moving in the rings?
Although it’s only 3 shots, your 100yd group looks decent. With a sporter barrel I am fine with 3 shot groups due to barrel heat, but not just 1 group. You need to see if that group is repeatable. Let the barrel cool between groups and do another 3 shot group. Or shoot more at the same spot. If it is repeatable at 100 over and over then your scope should be fine. If not then try another scope or put this scope on something else and try it. Gotta prove good or bad, and if bad then send it back to Leupold for repairs. But I wouldn’t tell them you’re using the lead sled.
 
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CanuckOutdoors
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Been awhile but everything turned out ! Got the gun shooting lights out upto 300 yards and even managed to shoot my first bull. 250 yard shot and he was done. 🤙
 

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