2 tikkas, 1 caliber.

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I am relatively new to reloading and have just settled on a load that performs well in my new Tikka 7RM.
160gr Accubond over 70gr H1000 w/ Peterson Brass and Remington 9.5M primers produced the group pictured below. Under 1.2" for 10 rounds.
I worked up to 70 grains and shot this group in 90 degree weather with no signs of pressure and a velocity that I am happy with.
loadgroup.jpg
I am trying to follow a lot of the great reloading knowledge I've come across on the forum and like to keep things as simple as possible.

My dilemma is my father purchased an identical Tikka at the same time as me last fall.
I'd like to produce similar results through his rifle with at least the same bullet/powder combo.
Before wasting components doing testing I'm wondering if anyone has any insight on the best way to proceed.
I would obviously work up from a lower charge in his rifle to confirm 70gr does not show pressure. I have 250 rounds (215 unfired/35 once fired) pieces of the Peterson brass. I was planning to shoot through all 250 before moving on to reloading the once fired brass to keep the whole lot on the same number of firings. This would also keep my resizing process extremely simple and any necessary tweaks to the load would ideally be few and far between.

Would it be unreasonable to try and shoot one load out of both rifles?
After all 250 pieces have been fired once, will I run into too much trouble trying to bump shoulders back for both rifles to the same spec? I assume it is going to be difficult once resizing the brass becomes a factor. So, I'm thinking it may be easier to start with a fresh 50-100 for his rifle (he shoots less than me), work up a similar load, and start on him on the same track but with the exact specs his rifle likes (maybe a different powder charge, and different resizing measurements). I just want to do this in the simplest way possible from the start.
Any input would be greatly appreciated!
 

TaperPin

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I hunted with dual 7 mags for a decade and have gone through the exact same mental gymnastics. Until a custom barrel was installed on one, I simply worked up a load for the more accurate of the two, and it shot decent in the secondary rifle, and brass and ammo could be interchanged - done.

Some chambers are quite different and they might as well be different calibers because nothing works between the two other than the names on the powder, bullets and cases. With the #3 rifle of my wife’s brass couldn’t be shared.

If there are any differences at all in die settings between your two rifles it will quickly get old readjusting dies all the time. If I end up with a second 7 mag that gets shot regularly I’d definitely buy it dies without thinking.
 

Justin Crossley

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I would just try your load in his rifle and see if it's acceptable. If it is, I would load them all the same.

I don't remember the specifics off the top of my head but I have used the same load in four or five Tikka 7 RM's. I know powder was Retumbo, bullet was Berger 168 Classic Hunter, CCI primer.

All shot well with that same load.
 

nobody

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I’ll third the “try it and see” answer. Not like it’s gonna be safe in one tikka and blow up in the other (most likely). I wouldn’t work up or anything, I’d just shoot one. If pressure is good, lay down a 10 round group and check.
 
OP
CSHunter802
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I would just try your load in his rifle and see if it's acceptable. If it is, I would load them all the same.

I don't remember the specifics off the top of my head but I have used the same load in four or five Tikka 7 RM's. I know powder was Retumbo, bullet was Berger 168 Classic Hunter, CCI primer.

All shot well with that same load.

@Justin Crossley beat me to it. If the load shoots acceptable in both rifles just shoot it. Sure one rifle will shoot slightly better than the other but likely not enough to matter.

I’ll third the “try it and see” answer. Not like it’s gonna be safe in one tikka and blow up in the other (most likely). I wouldn’t work up or anything, I’d just shoot one. If pressure is good, lay down a 10 round group and check.
try it and see is the consensus. I like it. Maybe someone has some insight as to what to do after I run through the remaining virgin brass and need to resize. Is it worth separating out a group of brass to go with one rifle. Same headstamp and sounds like the same load will likely be good enough, but this might make resizing simpler. Or should I just burn through it all in both rifles... bump shoulders back for my chamber, confirm it chambers in my fathers as well and go from there.
 

Justin Crossley

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try it and see is the consensus. I like it. Maybe someone has some insight as to what to do after I run through the remaining virgin brass and need to resize. Is it worth separating out a group of brass to go with one rifle. Same headstamp and sounds like the same load will likely be good enough, but this might make resizing simpler. Or should I just burn through it all in both rifles... bump shoulders back for my chamber, confirm it chambers in my fathers as well and go from there.
Just resize it so both bolts close without interference, and don't overthink it.
 

JGRaider

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Used my Tikka 695 7mag effectively on multitudes of game animals for 25 years, mostly with 160's. As others have mentioned I'd just see if that exact load would shoot in the other Tikka, and bet it will.

Just out of curiosity, what other powders do you have handy?
 
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CSHunter802
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Used my Tikka 695 7mag effectively on multitudes of game animals for 25 years, mostly with 160's. As others have mentioned I'd just see if that exact load would shoot in the other Tikka, and bet it will.

Just out of curiosity, what other powders do you have handy?
VV N165, tried it based on the Nosler book recommended load, seemed very promising when I was checking for pressure. But could not get velocity out of it and ended up too far over Nosler book max to feel comfortable. VV book recommendations were way different which is why I kept going but that powder was so darn slow out of my rifle.

H4831SC, didn't even get to trying that one out, H1000 has checked my boxes.
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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I was planning to shoot through all 250 before moving on to reloading the once fired brass to keep the whole lot on the same number of firings.
You may want to consider doing a batch of a 100 or whatever number makes sense vs the whole lot. Reason I'm saying that is if you have a load that roasts your primer pockets too fast you can back it down in the remainder of the brass. Versus going to reload 250pieces of brass after X firings and find out they've all lost their primer pockets and you now have to track down new brass.

Or if you move on from the caliber and/or shoot the barrel out on a smaller sample of brass then you're unopened boxes of brass could be sold.
 
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Unless you are using the "long" brass and its notably different, I'd imagine 1x fired doesn't need shoulder pushed back at all to chamber due to how much belted mag brass stretches from virgin.

If I ever get another belted magnum, I'd probably spend the $22 for a lee collet die for for the first firing or two until the shoulder is actually tight to the chamber.
 
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I have 2 Tikka 7mm-08s. They shoot the same load equally well. Brass, when neck sized, is interchangeable.

I load a bunch of whatever and go forth. You probably can, too.




P
 

sdupontjr

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If it was mentioned, I missed it. I wouldn't just take the load and stick it in the other 7mag. Load a grain under and check for pressure, then try the 70g load in the other. I have 2 tikka 308's. One is a T3 lite and the other is a CTR. I have loads that both shoot 155 scenars very well. However, the CTR can have .5 or more grains more that the lite with no pressure signs. So If I did the load on my CTR first, and took that load to my T3 lite, I would have gotten heavy bolt lift and headstamp marks. Just a thought.
 
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It wouldn’t surprise me if they head space near identical. I haven’t compared any belted tikkas but with all of my short action standard bolt face or 223, the fired brass between identical cartridges has been within 1-2 thousandths among multiple rifles or barrels. Bumping one back .002” and the other .004” isn’t going to mean much. I would find a load that shoots well in both and load a bunch of them.

I am also in the try what you have loaded camp, shoot one for pressure and then shoot a group to check accuracy if the first is good. I used to load a certain load for each individual rifle even if they were the same cartridge, I hated having to sort all the brass and keep track of it and look up each load every time. In the end the accuracy gains were so minimal or non existent that is was way more trouble than it was worth.
 

Sadie

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A set of Redding competition shell holders might save you a world of work having several rifles of the same cartridge. Just make a note of which shell holder gives proper shoulder set back for that particular rifle.
 
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