1911’s in general, 9mm versions specifically

Damn man, that turned out nice...
Can’t wait to wear and break it in. Matching belt to boot. The RDS is a bit close to where the belt goes through the loops, but it doesn’t affect the draw. It might limit how deep I can seat the holster. Need to wear it and see.

Total time was 7.5 weeks. Not sure if ordering the belt made it take longer.

But I may just get another TT for the CS in AIWB. I am getting annoyed at the kydex search. I thought I had decided on a Mach 1 but I think it’s designed for the prior CS. And for the cost of some of the kydex options, I can get another TT anyway.
 
Can’t wait to wear and break it in. Matching belt to boot. The RDS is a bit close to where the belt goes through the loops, but it doesn’t affect the draw. It might limit how deep I can seat the holster. Need to wear it and see.

Total time was 7.5 weeks. Not sure if ordering the belt made it take longer.

But I may just get another TT for the CS in AIWB. I am getting annoyed at the kydex search. I thought I had decided on a Mach 1 but I think it’s designed for the prior CS. And for the cost of some of the kydex options, I can get another TT anyway.

Did you ask if it’s for the ‘23 CS? When I just see CS I assume it’s for the newer ones.

I hadn’t looked at the Mach 1 but that single clip design seems slick. Almost makes me want to ditch my light (but also my CS is ‘23).
 
Did you ask if it’s for the ‘23 CS? When I just see CS I assume it’s for the newer ones.

I hadn’t looked at the Mach 1 but that single clip design seems slick. Almost makes me want to ditch my light (but also my CS is ‘23).
I think it would work for you. It says just “CS” but I wanted to know for sure. The response made it clear they think the CS hasn’t changed. (Not faulting them, it may be that Staccato is a small market for them.) It was in my cart and now back to the drawing board.
 
I think it would work for you. It says just “CS” but I wanted to know for sure. The response made it clear they think the CS hasn’t changed. (Not faulting them, it may be that Staccato is a small market for them.) It was in my cart and now back to the drawing board.
If you can hold off for a minute I finally found a custom kydex maker that may have the option you are asking for. Sent a PM
 
Any training concerns going from a Glock to never shooting a 1911 variant? Besides just getting used to a safety?

Scheels has Staccato HD's in stock plus a 200 dollar gift card deal going right now.

I'd probably trade my G34 towards it.

But being a Glock guy I can't see the big difference besides the ease of using Glock bags between a newer made Springfield Prodigy and the HD P4. Can someone break it down for me?

Plan would be to appendix carry it and for the money it'd almost replace my XMacro as my edc.
 
Any training concerns going from a Glock to never shooting a 1911 variant? Besides just getting used to a safety?

Scheels has Staccato HD's in stock plus a 200 dollar gift card deal going right now.

I'd probably trade my G34 towards it.

But being a Glock guy I can't see the big difference besides the ease of using Glock bags between a newer made Springfield Prodigy and the HD P4. Can someone break it down for me?

Plan would be to appendix carry it and for the money it'd almost replace my XMacro as my edc.
The grip angle difference will be a bit of an adjustment too, I imagine. The 1911/2011 will have the classic 18 degree and Glocks use 22 degrees if I remember right. May just have to tweak some grip pressures.
 
Can’t wait to wear and break it in. Matching belt to boot. The RDS is a bit close to where the belt goes through the loops, but it doesn’t affect the draw. It might limit how deep I can seat the holster. Need to wear it and see.

Total time was 7.5 weeks. Not sure if ordering the belt made it take longer.

But I may just get another TT for the CS in AIWB. I am getting annoyed at the kydex search. I thought I had decided on a Mach 1 but I think it’s designed for the prior CS. And for the cost of some of the kydex options, I can get another TT anyway.

Hammer Armament Loki. You can remove the outer clip if you want to run single.
 
The grip angle difference will be a bit of an adjustment too, I imagine. The 1911/2011 will have the classic 18 degree and Glocks use 22 degrees if I remember right. May just have to tweak some grip pressures.

Just swapped G19 grip to the LW Dusk that's 19 degree. Then the maco and FN I have are about the same.

Apparently the Springfields had some issues starting out but I've read reviews that since guys have thousands of rounds on the newer ones and no issues.

But I don't want to buy one and be like well frick, wished I would have spent the other $1400 on the Staccato.
 
Just swapped G19 grip to the LW Dusk that's 19 degree. Then the maco and FN I have are about the same.

Apparently the Springfields had some issues starting out but I've read reviews that since guys have thousands of rounds on the newer ones and no issues.

But I don't want to buy one and be like well frick, wished I would have spent the other $1400 on the Staccato.

These drop every Wednesday morning. Might be the best way to get into a staccato for less than new prices. https://staccato2011.com/shop/handguns/certified-pre-owned-handguns
 
I got the Kimber warrior DS 9mm last week. Found an ACRO p2 for it, and the TI mounting plate from Kimber.
Put 460 rounds through it the last 2 days. No malfunctions.

Trigger is a bit better (about 3.5#) most stock triggers i have on 1911's.
Shoots pretty good, but with the ACRO adjustment all the way up, it still shoots 4 inches low. I tried 2 brands of each: 115gr/124gr/147gr ammo. Mounted the plate and sight per directions provided. Plate only mounts one way- no way to put it on backwards or upside down. Targets have orange dot as my POA. I messaged both Kimber and Aimpoint to see if there is something I can do to fix it
 

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Might consider a thin shim under the front of the mount. IIRC, Midway & Brownells both have gunsmithing shim kits of varying thicknesses.
Yea I have shim stock. Everything fits nice and tight so I dont want to fix something that is supposed to wotk. I'm going to have the people that built it fix it.
 
Diagnostic request for the 1911 crew-
I have a Smith and Wesson SW1911 45 ACP, 2004-ish production. Unsure of round count, <3000?

I'm getting this FTE every 50-100 rounds on the last round with mag inserted. Sometimes it hangs on the slide, and sometimes rebounds a little and jams the mag and needs to be pried out.

All shooting with Wilson Combat 8rd mags, appears to happen independent of the individual magazine used. mags are clean.

My theories:
Bad ammo - I'm mostly shooting old gun show Georgia Arms reman'd 230 gr stuff - I was given a bunch of this stuff, and if this is the consequence for free, I'll suffer that for range use.
Extractor - I'm not exactly sure how this should interact with the case, I've done some googling and reading, but IDK how applicable the tuning info in this thread and other sources applies to an external extractor.
Ejection without mag inserted is soft with the case going directly up 1-2 feet and falling back on the gun or nearby. Ejection with mag inserted is strong with cases falling back and right 5-ish feet.
I can get a picture of an empty case on the slide later if that helps.
Lube - seems to do this less often when freshly lubed, however, he picture above is ~150 rounds after a fresh application of Hoppes grease on all surfaces.
Limp wrist - I keep a strong and firm grip, but the occasion limp wrist may exacerbate the other issues. again, only happens last round with mag inserted.
Springs - an unknown. round count is unknown, but presumed to be 3000 or less

As an aside, I plan to get some additional mags, was going to get MecGars 8 rounders unless persuaded not to. Also, any advice or preference on 10 rounders?

1774368697407.png
 
Lube - seems to do this less often when freshly lubed, however, he picture above is ~150 rounds after a fresh application of Hoppes grease on all surfaces.

Failures to eject as you describe, including with that casing getting smashed up, are most typically the result of the slide velocity going backwards being too slow. In a factory gun, that's most often an indicator of excessive friction between the moving parts, but can also be from the thumb riding the slide a bit, and limp-wristing, as you mentioned. In custom or tuned guns, it's most commonly from excessive spring power.

In a way, diagnosing weapon malfunctions is similar to diagnosing a car that won't start - always begin with the simplest things first. As in, starting with battery issues before concluding the starter needs to be replaced.

In otherwise good guns, as long as ammo and mags are good, about 90% of mechanical malfunctions are due to excessive friction - which means, insufficient lubrication. You've pretty much ruled out the magazine issue. On ammo, that could definitely be part of the problem, and hotter ammo might cause the problem to go away for higher round-counts - because hotter ammo leads to increased slide velocities. But you can also get increased slide velocities by reducing friction.

If you look at other comments I've made above, lightweight greases offer maximum reliability for the longest courses of fire, without cleaning or relubing. You can homebrew some up, you can use TW25b, or you can go with a cherry balms grease. All of those will work. But if you want maximum friction reduction, go with the cherry balms black rifle balm for this. It reduces friction to a greater degree than the others - I've seen it cause limp-wristing problems to disappear entirely, with women shooting heavily-sprung sub-compact .45s. I typically go anywhere from 2500 to 3000 rounds on one application in my Staccato C, DWX Compact, and ARs with it, as long as its applied heavy, and they're still generally chugging along when I add a bit more or decide to break them down, clean, etc. If you homebrew, try to find a moly grease (they're usually blackish in color), as that moly additive reduces friction further than greases without it.
 
So I've spent several hours on YouTube and doing research on various double stack 1911 9's.

I'm pretty well set on a Kimber 2k11 pro comp 4.25". Price ain't bad either. I mean sure it's like 5 or 6 Glocks bbbuttt dang it looks sexy!
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Apparently Kimber is under new ownership and they no longer have QC issues.

I was really looking at the Staccado HD P4 but apparently the guide rod rattles around. Is this true?
Is there another Staccato model that's in that 2500 range? Going to check their site in the am for their bargain bin. But pretty sure I'm going to the Kimber.

Also looked into the Prodigy. The newer gen's seem to be very very good for their cheaper price tag. But they're kind of like a Glock, you buy them then spend a few hundred to make them the way you want.

Stealth Arms Platypus has holster availability issues. So that's a non starter. If I can't get a Tier 1 for it I don't want it.

Don't really want to go turkey made even though they're really good.

I will say after all the research I appreciate how simple Glocks are Especially taking them apart.
 
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