100 vs 200 yd zero?

[SDHNTR]

Well, after coming to the conclusion that my formerly beloved Swarovski Z6 3-18x50's weren't up to task (a sheared off elevation turret revealing the cheesy plastic internals sealed their fate) I've "upgraded" to a hopefully more rugged Nightforce NXS 3-15X50. In the process of re-zeroing, I'm finding that I am not able to hold the same tight groups at 200 (my usual zero for greater PBR w/o dialing) to confirm a precise zero simply because I can't see the target as well and am not able to hold as precisely on the dot as I could before. The glass simply isn't Swaro glass and I obviously gave up 3X mag. I don't want to go back to a more fragile scope to get the 18X I had before, and any more than that is unnecessary for hunting so I don't want to go up to the 5-22 NXS (and lose low end too) either. Soooooo, it got me thinking...

Do I want to move back to a 100 yd zero where I can see the bullseye better and where I'm able to hold more precisely? I hunt a lot of pigs and have to take a lot of quick shots cause them suckers are always squirming around in thick brush and across canyons. Split seconds matter. Is it worth the time penalty if I have to dial or hold for a 250yd type shot?

 

[SneakyThunderCat]

Less environmental factors to mess with the bullet at 100 yards. Plus if you bump your scope while out hunting and need to check your zero, it's easier to find a place to setup a target at 100 yds. I have two long range rifles, one setup with 100 yd zero, and one at 200. It was much easier getting the 100 yd rifle dialed in with less messing around wondering if the wind was pushing my bullet just a hair. They both shoot equally well at much longer distances. I suppose it's all personal preference, but after trying them both, I'm 100 yd kinda guy now.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

 

[Lawnboi]

Imo with a scope like that you would be foolish not to zero at 100. If you want to walk around with a 200 yard zero you can simply dial up to whatever 200 yards is and your good for the day.

Make sure your scope is in focus.

 

[WKR]

You could zero your rifle 100, then while hunting walk around with your turret set at or around 2 moa for max point blank range.

 

[Jbehredt]

Why not zero at 100 and hunt with your scope dialed for 250 and be in the same boat as a 200 yard zero if the short range shot presents itself. Roughly 2” high at 100. Just a thought. Hope it makes sense.

 

[WKR]

Imo with a scope like that you would be foolish not to zero at 100. If you want to walk around with a 200 yard zero you can simply dial up to whatever 200 yards is and your good for the day.

Make sure your scope is in focus.

Lol beat me to the punch

 

[Tullis94]

I like to keep my zero stop at 100 yards. When walking around hunting I dial for a 200 yard zero. It is usually 1.5 moa or less. I tried the 200 yard zero but it is just easier for me to keep it at 100. That way if i want to check zero I can be pretty confident if the rifle has lost zero or not. Same as you I can shoot a much better 100 yard group with my 14x scope.

 

[EdP]

I don't dial but rather use BDC reticles. It is no problem to figure out where your rifle hits at 100 yds when zeroed for 200. You can do it at the range or by using a ballistic program with bullet BC and muzzle velocity from a chronograph. A 200 yd zero makes a lot more sense to me for hunting with most cartridges. I don't really see the problem. If you need to check zero at 100 you should know where you want it to hit to be dead on at 200. That is effectively what the dialing folks are telling you when they say to zero at 100 and carry it dialed to 200.

 

[Kenn]

I zero at 200 and if I need a quick check I can do it at 100, it just needs to hit 1.5” high. Seems like either way is fine.

 

[SDHNTR]

Wow, I feel silly! I didn't even think of the 100 yd zero and then just cranking it up a few clicks to 200 for hunting around. Great idea. Thanks all.

FYI, Yes the scope was in focus as best I could. I was fighting some heat mirage too, which wasn't helping the image.

 

[KoolBreeze]

It's very disheartening that a scope as $$$ as a Z6 has issues. I mean you drop that much coin on a scope, it should be a given that it just works.

It seems that you can either get reliability or great glass but not both unless you want spend $3k.

 

[Outdoors42]

My old man and uncles all sighted in at 100. I’m thinking about setting a 200 zero on my 28 nosler.

 

[MTNHUNTER76]

Always zero at 100yds if you have turrets or a reticle you can use for hold overs. You will be able to achieve a more accurate zero at 100.

 

[Outdoors42]

Thanks, I do have turrets. 100 it is.

 

[SDHNTR]

It's very disheartening that a scope as $$$ as a Z6 has issues. I mean you drop that much coin on a scope, it should be a given that it just works.

It seems that you can either get reliability or great glass but not both unless you want spend $3k.

Yes. It’s a shame. That Z6 is amazing glass and comes in an amazing package. Super lightweight, great zoom range. Huge FOV. Great reticle in the 4W. Huge eye box. Has so much to like. If only it were reliable… Sad.

FWIW, I'm not even aware of a scope that provides great glass AND great reliability. Maybe March? The jury is still out, The NF ATACR line? Maybe but that 34mil tube is a turn off for me. Put ATACR glass in an NXS scope tube and I'd be a buyer! Swaro X5? Not sure about its durability. Would be nice to have more choices that had both!

 

[Rich M]

Dialing for long range shots across canyons is one thing - but pls don't worry about short range stuff. In this instance, zeroing at 100 and dialing it for 200 or 250 will allow you to shoot to 300 yards without much thought. It is not worth the time to play with the dial for a 3 or 4 inch bullet rise or drop.

 

[Justin Crossley]

Yes. It’s a shame. That Z6 is amazing glass and comes in an amazing package. Super lightweight, great zoom range. Huge FOV. Great reticle in the 4W. Huge eye box. Has so much to like. If only it were reliable… Sad.

FWIW, I'm not even aware of a scope that provides great glass AND great reliability. Maybe March? The jury is still out, The NF ATACR line? Maybe but that 34mil tube is a turn off for me. Put ATACR glass in an NXS scope tube and I'd be a buyer! Swaro X5? Not sure about its durability. Would be nice to have more choices that had both!

The Swaro X5s have proven to be pretty reliable for us. I have switched almost all my scopes to Nightforce or the Swaro X5.

 

[Pickettpuncher]

The more I shoot at distance I’m finding myself dialing. I don’t mind dialing. But if you’re gonna dial keep them zeroed at 100. If you don’t dial, or the scope isn’t up to par, zero at 200. I’m also a hunter first, shooter second

 

[NE Herd Bull]

I think this discussion is very determinate on what is the likely/common use for this rifle/scope setup.
A lot of good opinions here, but I feel compelled to add my humble thoughts on what works for ME

My current personal hunting go-to rifle is a quality bolt gun in 300WM.
It wears a mid-range name brand scope that is dialable with a BDC style reticle
I have developed a consistent handload for it with hunting grade bullets.
(name brands withheld to not look like a fan-boy. Shoot the stuff YOU like)

Gun is zeroed at 250yds. Zero stop is set there as well.
For reference if needed, I have a dope card attached to the gun, with a BDC hold-over/impact chart on the flip side.

Most importantly, of all the guns in my rack, I have worked the hardest to learn this one and I feel like I know this arm intimately.
My needs from this combination are minute-of-whitetail/muledeer/coyote/elk/antelope/etc.
I am blessed that this tool is capable of bug size groups on paper, but I really don't need it to be.

The majority of my rifle hunting is spent still hunting big rough country.
Rifle slung or strapped to my pack, putting my boots and optics to work.
Looking back through the years, I honestly don't take many shots on game past 400yds.
However, in certain circumstances I have, and will, extend my ethical range out to 600ish (if the stars are aligned properly).

With this configuration of firearm and knowledge, I can quickly administer shots on game out to 300yds, without any consideration of bullet drop. If I do my part and the sear breaks when the crosshairs are on the vitals of my quarry, the bullet will impact lethally. Shorter range shooting on game normally requires quick reactions. In those cases I am normally more worried about quickly putting myself into a shooting position, than I am about touching my scope.

For shots past 300yds, I feel like I commonly have additional time to think and assess the situation. If I decide to take those shots, I either have confidence in my knowledge of the guns ballistics, or I have time to consult my dope card to dial or confirm hold-over.

My setup is need driven, and your needs may be drastically different than mine. It is what works for me. Your mileage may vary.

 

[Justin Crossley]

I think this discussion is very determinate on what is the likely/common use for this rifle/scope setup.
A lot of good opinions here, but I feel compelled to add my humble thoughts on what works for ME

My current personal hunting go-to rifle is a quality bolt gun in 300WM.
It wears a mid-range name brand scope that is dialable with a BDC style reticle
I have developed a consistent handload for it with hunting grade bullets.
(name brands withheld to not look like a fan-boy. Shoot the stuff YOU like)

Gun is zeroed at 250yds. Zero stop is set there as well.
For reference if needed, I have a dope card attached to the gun, with a BDC hold-over/impact chart on the flip side.

Most importantly, of all the guns in my rack, I have worked the hardest to learn this one and I feel like I know this arm intimately.
My needs from this combination are minute-of-whitetail/muledeer/coyote/elk/antelope/etc.
I am blessed that this tool is capable of bug size groups on paper, but I really don't need it to be.

The majority of my rifle hunting is spent still hunting big rough country.
Rifle slung or strapped to my pack, putting my boots and optics to work.
Looking back through the years, I honestly don't take many shots on game past 400yds.
However, in certain circumstances I have, and will, extend my ethical range out to 600ish (if the stars are aligned properly).

With this configuration of firearm and knowledge, I can quickly administer shots on game out to 300yds, without any consideration of bullet drop. If I do my part and the sear breaks when the crosshairs are on the vitals of my quarry, the bullet will impact lethally. Shorter range shooting on game normally requires quick reactions. In those cases I am normally more worried about quickly putting myself into a shooting position, than I am about touching my scope.

For shots past 300yds, I feel like I commonly have additional time to think and assess the situation. If I decide to take those shots, I either have confidence in my knowledge of the guns ballistics, or I have time to consult my dope card to dial or confirm hold-over.

My setup is need driven, and your needs may be drastically different than mine. It is what works for me. Your mileage may vary.

Zeroing your rifle at 100 yards still allows what you are talking about, well, all accept setting the zero stop at 250 yards.

Zero the rifle at 100 and set the zero stop. If you want to hunt with a 250 yards zero, you simply dial your scope to the needed correction and leave it there. It will work exactly the same as your method above.

The real advantages to a 100 yard zero are that it's much easier to verify, especially in the field, and you don't have to worry about the wind as much when you zero.