100 Grain and 125 grain Broadheads - Is there a difference?

[NevadaZielmeister]

Gentlemen, Thank you for taking the time to answer a likely newby question. As I just got back into archery and plan to hunt next season, I am wanting to get myself on the right path.

My plan is to hunt either Mule Deer or Elk with my 60 pound compound bow. I could raise that to 70 pounds but I worry about loss of shot placement and would like to stay at 60 pounds for now. (I read where Nate Simmons just went to 80 pounds, yikes!) I am using 340 arrows and currently have 100 grain field points just to start out. However, if it makes sense, should I move to 125 grains to get ready for the same weight broad head in case the 100 grainers are not enough? Or am I missing something?

Thank you again for your time.

 

[TurkeyBowMaster]

25 grains buys you some size and strength in a head and that is a plus. Most cannot shoot well enough to notice a difference. There are some really good 150 to 200 grain heads that would be even stronger and bigger

 

[ezmorningrebel]

The only downside to shooting 125 grain heads is that you can't walk into a store and expect to find what you want on the shelf.

 

[Hunter6]

I'll throw more confusion to you. I shoot a 100grn magnus black hornet with a thirty grain insert.


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[NevadaZielmeister]

I'll throw more confusion to you. I shoot a 100grn magnus black hornet with a thirty grain insert.


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Yeh, but aren't you just doing that for the correct FOC? What percentage are you at then?

 

[Hunter6]

I'm at 13.25% foc and I tinkered with different inserts to get the best arrow performance for my set up and a higher foc.

So one difference between the two heads is a high foc. Or if that's is all you are after you might be able to install an insert and have the same results with out the price of all new Broadheads.


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[Backpack Hunter]

I have used a 60lb bow with a 400-450gr arrow topped with a 100gr head for every elk I have killed. I have never felt or been proven to be under bowed or arrowed. Assuming correct spine you will be fine with either head.

 

[Dameon]

My bow is maxed out at 63 lbs and my arrows weigh 420 gr with 15% FOC flying at 287 fps. I have no doubts about my setup on any North American game. Use a good COC broadhead with correctly spined arrows, and you are all set.


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[JP100]

60lb is plenty to kill any critter.
better to shoot a heavier arrow/broad head combo than try and shoot more poundage.
I shoot a 130 with an insert just cos thats what I shoot, 100 grainer will work fine
Dont over think it,

you hit em right theyl die

 

[Jeff Martin]

It comes down to arrow flight and tuning, not 25 grains. Hold 3 nocks in your hand, you really think that makes a hill of beans difference? Trust me, it doesn't. I would go with arrow flight and performance and avoid overthinking it with a calculator!


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[Cant hit em]

You might get better flight shooting 125's if you have 60lb draw weight shooting 340's , depending upon the length of your arrow. Buy a pack of each and see if you can tell a difference.


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[Jason Snyder]

The only downside to shooting 125 grain heads is that you can't walk into a store and expect to find what you want on the shelf.

I've never had any trouble finding 125 grain broadheads.

 

[ezmorningrebel]

I've never had any trouble finding 125 grain broadheads.

i don't either if i'm buying online. you've probably got better archery shops around you than I have available. you can walk into any big box outdoors store around here and in a wall full of broadheads there might be one or two 125 grain options if you're lucky.

 

[Jason Snyder]

i don't either if i'm buying online. you've probably got better archery shops around you than I have available. you can walk into any big box outdoors store around here and in a wall full of broadheads there might be one or two 125 grain options if you're lucky.

Any Sportsman's Warehouse usually has 125 grain BH in stock.

 

[kodiakfly]

...in case the 100 grainers are not enough?...

Enough for what? 100 gr is plenty for anything. Don't think of just your broadhead doing the work; bigger isn't automatically better or more powerful. The head affects arrow spine, FOC, flight, ect, but think of the arrow as a complete assembly, and don't sweat the head singularly. I'll mess with and swap heads based on what I'm hunting, shaft, what I want it to do, etc.

 

[NevadaZielmeister]

Enough for what? 100 gr is plenty for anything. Don't think of just your broadhead doing the work; bigger isn't automatically better or more powerful. The head affects arrow spine, FOC, flight, ect, but think of the arrow as a complete assembly, and don't sweat the head singularly. I'll mess with and swap heads based on what I'm hunting, shaft, what I want it to do, etc.

You know, from the sounds of what you are saying, this is very similar to reloading for rifle. In that it all depends on primer, powder and bullet choice and hey they interact with the rifle. Sounds to me like that same thing with the bow, arrow, and broad head interaction. Correct? If this is the case, then what sources of information can I look to or is it going to be trial and error? From my guess, I would want to shoot certain broad heads at different distances from my bow and then fine tune, correct?

Again, thank you guys for the help. Always good to get the experts' opinions on this since archery is very new to me. Reloading... well, I have 30 plus years in that regard. Hit me up if anyone has questions there.

 

[kodiakfly]

Yeah, that's a good comparison.

And I'll say this- don't overthink it. There's plenty of threads about arrow or arrow wt for so-and-so species. Figure out what you're hunting (turkey, deer, moose, elephant...) and then it's time to find the balance of speed, weight, penetration, kinetic energy, and so on. It can get super detailed and off in the weeds and that can be fun. But it can also be as simple as consulting an Easton or Beman, etc, arrow chart and seeing what arrow they suggest you shoot and then shooting it. Unless you're on a specialized hunt, modern bows, modern arrows and broadheads will kill most anything with a well-placed shot.

 

[Cant hit em]

Yeah, that's a good comparison.

And I'll say this- don't overthink it. There's plenty of threads about arrow or arrow wt for so-and-so species. Figure out what you're hunting (turkey, deer, moose, elephant...) and then it's time to find the balance of speed, weight, penetration, kinetic energy, and so on. It can get super detailed and off in the weeds and that can be fun. But it can also be as simple as consulting an Easton or Beman, etc, arrow chart and seeing what arrow they suggest you shoot and then shooting it. Unless you're on a specialized hunt, modern bows, modern arrows and broadheads will kill most anything with a well-placed shot.

spot on


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[Piscatory_4]

125's probably slightly wider cutting width, like 1/8th inch total.

 

[mmccolloch]

Yeh, but aren't you just doing that for the correct FOC? What percentage are you at then?

Weight is weight. Having a 125 grain broadhead or a 100 grain broadhead with a 25 grain insert or screw in weight yields the same FOC & finished arrow weight.

One reason I like to shoot a 100 grain broadhead with a 50 grain screw in weight, is because the 125 grain broadheads typically have a longer ferrule and a slightly larger profile due to requiring more material to add the additional 25 grains of weight. In my testing, the larger broadheads have a bigger tendency to plane, etc (pending vane configuration, but that is a whole different topic,) and for me, they seem less forgiving and I'm less accurate with them. I'll be the first to admit that I'm not tournament level archer, especially with fixed blade broadheads, so I'll take all of the help I can get.