Is Bareshaft tuning a requirement?

[TheViking]

This is my process as well.

I have found that if you bare shafts or broadheads flying fine the other will too.

Same as well.

Bare shafts can kick your ass sometimes, in a good way. It’s a good way to dial in your tune AND make sure your form/grip is consistent.

Erratics tears will tell you your form needs work. To me, this is just as important as getting the arrow flight perfect.

 

[Beendare]

I'm a little confused by this. I thought that big reason you need to broadhead tune was because you now have added the steering of the broadhead to the steering of the vanes. Wouldn't a bareshaft just remove all steering from the equation and be more indicative of the input from the bow rather than the input from the arrow?

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Try thinking of it this way.

If your arrow is coming out of the bow perfectly straight, the BH cannot affect the flight on the launch.
Edit- if its vectoring out of the bow at even a slight angle, the BH will cause it to plane off Opening up groups and hurting arrow performance.

A FP tipped arrow can come out of the bow slightly wrong and the arrows won't group that bad. Slap a BH on there and the BH will cause the arrow to plane off in an exaggerated way.

This is why just putting a Mech head on there is only a partial fix for an untuned bow/arrow- its still out of tune. The arrow is still coming out of the bow slightly cockeyed...you just don't notice it as much as its hitting close to your FP's.

But if my BH's hit with my FP's- why isn't that fine?

Its all about minimizing that planing off...eliminating the arrow wobble out of the bow and in flight. A tuned bow is quieter, more efficient and more forgiving of form errors.

If your arrow is planing off on the launch, a slight form error at the moment of truth exaggerates that bad arrow flight. Any wobble will lessen the arrows effectiveness and penetration.

I not only tune with bare shafts in my recurve but shoot them in practice as a form check...its a great tool. I find out real quick when I'm doing something wrong.YMMV

 

[Dave_S]

Try thinking of it this way.

If your arrow is coming out of the bow perfectly straight, the BH cannot affect the flight on the launch.

A FP tipped arrow can come out of the bow slightly wrong and the arrows won't group that bad. Slap a BH on there and the BH will cause the arrow to plane off in an exaggerated way.

This is why just putting a Mech head on there that doesn't plane off as bad is only a partial fix for an untuned bow/arrow. The arrow is still out of tune coming out of the bow slightly cockeyed...you just don't notice it as much as its hitting close to your FP's.

But if my BH's hit with my FP's- why isn't that fine?

Its all about minimizing that planing off...the arrow wobble out of the bow. A tuned bow is quieter, more efficient and more forgiving of form errors. If your arrow is planing off on the launch, a slight form error at the moment of truth exaggerates that bad arrow flight. Any wobble will lessen the arrows effectiveness and penetration.

I shoot bare shafts in my recurve as a form check...its a great tool. I find out real quick when I'm doing something wrong.

So basically, the bare shaft is more about getting the bow as perfect as possible before you add in any other variables, right?

 

[TheViking]

So basically, the bare shaft is more about getting the bow as perfect as possible before you add in any other variables, right?

Correct

 

[sndmn11]

So basically, the bare shaft is more about getting the bow as perfect as possible before you add in any other variables, right?

Don't forget that the shooter is the biggest variable in both frequency and factor. Give it several shots before making a change and if your results are a circus, don't change anything. Just move on to a different fletched method and keep a couple bare shafts handy to keep coming back to check your consistency.

 

[Dave_S]

Don't forget that the shooter is the biggest variable in both frequency and factor. Give it several shots before making a change and if your results are a circus, don't change anything. Just move on to a different fletched method and keep a couple bare shafts handy to keep coming back to check your consistency.

Yeah...still working on that whole "shooter" part.

 

[sndmn11]

Yeah...still working on that whole "shooter" part.

The point I was trying to convey was that if you do give bare shaft stuff a shot and it isn't flowing smoothly, all will be fine. Just BH or paper tune and come back to it later if you feel the need.

 

[Beendare]

Yeah...still working on that whole "shooter" part.

All of us know by now, Developing and keeping a good shot process is really the key to shooting a bow.

Everyone I know that has been shooting for a long time has developed form flaws like punching, peeking, torquing, TP, etc….its a constant battle. Spending time working on the different components of your shot is a good idea. Bare shafts can help with that.

Bareshafts are not only good to get your bow tuned…but they also tell you when you have a form flaw. I shoot a recurve and shoot bare shafts at every session as those bows are all about the indian…you can’t punch one off and still be in the spot.

Its worth knowing…a guy can shoot an untuned arrow pretty darn good in a compound- doesn’t mean its tuned. Many years ago a pro buddy used to do a demonstration where he took atuned compound and moved the rest in and up an eighth inch plus in two directions severely de tuning the bow.

He proceeded to shoot that bow and stack arrows in a tight group at 20y. Now the arrows had a noticeable wobble….but his form was so perfect they wobbled their way to the same spot. We can’t assume good groups equals a tuned bow.

Now that just won’t work with BHs as they plane off more erratically in an out of tune bow. Bh groups that don’t match FP groups tell us the bow isn’t tuned.

One of the craziest thing I‘ve heard on the subject was Dwayne Martin telling me about the year he won Vegas. He shot better scores than a bunch of the compound guys using his recurve by shooting something like 6 or 8-300 rounds. He said he picked up an extra couple points shooting a slightly detuned arrow. Thats crazy to me..but its the exact same distance with FPs- it worked. He did say that it just doesn’t work with BHs, he bareshaft tunes and shoots BHs for groups at long distance To confirm.

.

 

[Dave_S]

The point I was trying to convey was that if you do give bare shaft stuff a shot and it isn't flowing smoothly, all will be fine. Just BH or paper tune and come back to it later if you feel the need.

I gotcha, I was just saying that I know I have plenty of work to do on my side of the bow. I still have days where I just can't seem to shoot straight.

 

[Dave_S]

All of us know by now, Developing and keeping a good shot process is really the key to shooting a bow.

Everyone I know that has been shooting for a long time has developed form flaws like punching, peeking, torquing, TP, etc….its a constant battle. Spending time working on the different components of your shot is a good idea. Bare shafts can help with that.

Bareshafts are not only good to get your bow tuned…but they also tell you when you have a form flaw. I shoot a recurve and shoot bare shafts at every session as those bows are all about the indian…you can’t punch one off and still be in the spot.

Its worth knowing…a guy can shoot an untuned arrow pretty darn good in a compound- doesn’t mean its tuned. Many years ago a pro buddy used to do a demonstration where he took atuned compound and moved the rest in and up an eighth inch plus in two directions severely de tuning the bow.

He proceeded to shoot that bow and stack arrows in a tight group at 20y. Now the arrows had a noticeable wobble….but his form was so perfect they wobbled their way to the same spot. We can’t assume good groups equals a tuned bow.

Now that just won’t work with BHs as they plane off more erratically in an out of tune bow. Bh groups that don’t match FP groups tell us the bow isn’t tuned.

One of the craziest thing I‘ve heard on the subject was Dwayne Martin telling me the about the year he won Vegas. He shot better scores than a bunch of the compound guys using his recurve by shooting something like 6 or 8-300 rounds. He said he picked up an extra couple points shooting a slightly detuned arrow. Thats crazy to me..but its the exact same distance with FPs. He did say that just doesn’t work with BHs And he bareshaft tunes and shoots BHs for groups at long distance.

.

Interesting, I'll have to give this a shot. I never even thought of shooting them just to check form.

 

[sndmn11]

I gotcha, I was just saying that I know I have plenty of work to do on my side of the bow. I still have days where I just can't seem to shoot straight.

Me too, that's why I keep two or three bare in my case. They are a good way to be efficient with shooting for a purpose.

 

[gelton]

I can shoot straight almost every day, but consistently inconsistent as well. I always keep a bare shaft with me and shoot it with at least one group every time I shoot, which is pretty much daily.

I personally like to bare shaft and broadhead tune at 40 yards since that is where the pin is centered in my sight and where it shows the most issues with my form and/or tune.

I will check my broadhead flight out to 80 but 40 is where I do most of my BH tuning and ALL of my bare shaft tuning.

 

[waldo9190]

I would quit tuning fletched field tips before I gave up bare shafts. Realistically, I could go straight from bareshaft in paper straight to tuning broadheads with field points. I keep a few extra steps in there if for no other reason than the warm and fuzzies.

 

[Jesse Jaymes]

I can shoot straight almost every day, but consistently inconsistent as well. I always keep a bare shaft with me and shoot it with at least one group every time I shoot, which is pretty much daily.

I personally like to bare shaft and broadhead tune at 40 yards since that is where the pin is centered in my sight and where it shows the most issues with my form and/or tune.

I will check my broadhead flight out to 80 but 40 is where I do most of my BH tuning and ALL of my bare shaft tuning.

You can shoot a bare shaft at 40 yards and hit a bag?

 

[Luked]

I am no pro at Tuning but have done pretty well with it over the years with as many bows as I have had.
I set all my own stuff up. have a press etc.
I dont even paqpertune, I put the rest on, put an arrow on with the rest in the up position, line it up with the strings as close as possible by eye then go right to Broadhead tuning.
Has worked for what I do for years.
The bow I have now is a V3X 33 shooting Slick Trick Vipertrick heads and its spot on out to as far as I can shoot accuractly which isnt far for some but is for me. about 60 yards and its dead nuts on.
For what I hunt the most and where I live it works perfect. Even when I went out west last year I was not planning on dropping bombs at 70+ just because I do not feel comfortable at that distance.
What I have and do works and ill do it this way each time.

 

[gelton]

You can shoot a bare shaft at 40 yards and hit a bag?

I use a Sevr foam target but yeah do it daily, even when it is vertical on one of the sides which is slimmer than the actual target.

 

[sndmn11]

You can shoot a bare shaft at 40 yards and hit a bag?

I sling them out to 80...

 

[5MilesBack]

You can shoot a bare shaft at 40 yards and hit a bag?

Here's a pic of a FP (left), BS, and BH at 50 when I was tuning a few years ago. As you can see.....as go your BS's, there goes your BH's.

 

[Tick]

Here's a pic of a FP (left), BS, and BH at 50 when I was tuning a few years ago. As you can see.....as go your BS's, there goes your BH's.
View attachment 552563

What steps did you take to get the broadhead and bareshaft hitting bullseye in that pic?

 

[5MilesBack]

What steps did you take to get the broadhead and bareshaft hitting bullseye in that pic?

That was 6 years ago so I don't remember "exact" adjustments, but most likely a 1/2 twist on the left yoke and 1/2 untwist on the right yoke. But maybe a full twist/untwist.......can't remember for sure.