10 shot group advice

[Mikido]

I’m new to LR. This is a 300wsm factory rifle with factory ammo, on a 200yd zero. My goal is to hunt elk out to 600 effectively.

This is at 200yd.
I’d like your input on keeping zero as is, or adjusting (and why).

The blue group was on a cold barrel.
The green group on a “medium” temp barrel.
The flyers were on a hot barrel.

Appreciate your time.

 

[svivian]

What is your reasoning to for the 200yd zero? you may be better suited with a 100yd zero.

 

[jjjones7]

First 4 from a cold barrel under an inch on point of aim at 200 yards I wouldn’t mess with anything. You should be able to kill any North American big game animal easily if you do your part. Personally I’d go with a 100 yard zero but that’s another topic.

 

[Wrench]

For hunting, you have a winner. If you were gaming, you would still be in the hunt.

 

[Lawnboi]

Part of shooting a 10 shot group is knowing what you and your rifle will likely do. Count those flyers, make it all one big group and it looks like your around 2moa, which should do you fine as long as you understand that your dispersion, while on a shooting range, shooting at a stationary target is 2moa.

 

[Mag_7s]

Another vote for 100yd zero. For me, it just makes the math easier. I would also suggest a smaller aiming point.

 

[Rich M]

When you hunt, you'll be shooting a cold barrel. I typically shoot 3-5 shots and then let my barrel cool (sometimes with a fan blowing on it).

Not sure why the warm barrel is changing poi like that. What kind of gun, thin barrel? etc.

 

[Buckslyr]

I do all my paper grouping at 100yds. Bad habits are minimized. Less conditional effects on the bullet. I have a “200 yard zero”, but shoot it at 100yds. Once you know your ballistics you can set your zero for x inches high at 100yds. I tell guys after 100yds to just shoot steel. It’s either an impact or a miss. That way you don’t get inside your own head as much. Just my .02

 

[svivian]

Also, are the other dots from trying to sight in?

 

[MarlinsDad]

Unless you were using as a competition gun where you’ll fire 10 or so shots at a time I wouldn’t bother with it. As a hunting rifle that’s fine you shouldn’t ever have to quickly shoot more than a couple shots.
If you just have to monkey with it, start with the trigger. I’m spoiled on my triggers and don’t have any breaking over 3lb.
Check your action stock fit, if it’s not in a chassis or doesn’t have a v-block bedding setup float the barrel and bed the action properly, I use JB pro weld have for nearly 20yrs with no issues.

 

[FLS]

Get a good zero and muzzle velocity. Set up a 10- 12" piece of steel at 600 and shoot at it. Pick a calm day and get in a solid position. Take out as many variables as possible. Only way to know.

 

[jri]

i would just smile and zero at 100 cold

 

[Mikido]

What is your reasoning to for the 200yd zero? you may be better suited with a 100yd zero.

Just from I read online. Much less adjustment at the longer ranges (I plan to dial). The math isn’t an issue for me

 

[Mikido]

When you hunt, you'll be shooting a cold barrel. I typically shoot 3-5 shots and then let my barrel cool (sometimes with a fan blowing on it).

Not sure why the warm barrel is changing poi like that. What kind of gun, thin barrel? etc.

15ish year old savage 10 I picked off this forum cheap

 

[svivian]

Just from I read online. Much less adjustment at the longer ranges (I plan to dial). The math isn’t an issue for me

How much less?

 

[Mikido]

We don’t have a scale, but it looks like the overall group is pretty well centered and in the 1.5-2 MOA range (ES). Personally, I’d focus on shooting a bunch at 100 yards, focus on fundamentals to be more consistent. Messing around with zero offsets doesn’t do a ton of good if the shooter has inconsistencies. Once you become more consistent, layer on positional, then wind, then time.

I don’t know what you’re calling a flier. For me, I need to know that I made a bad trigger press and call the location of the impact before I see it on paper. Otherwise, I count all shots. You just need to be really honest with yourself.

I do count those “fliers” (i was in a good groove shooting these 10, but can’t count it out), which is why gut says the zero is good considering all shots

 

[Mikido]

Unless you were using as a competition gun where you’ll fire 10 or so shots at a time I wouldn’t bother with it. As a hunting rifle that’s fine you shouldn’t ever have to quickly shoot more than a couple shots.
If you just have to monkey with it, start with the trigger. I’m spoiled on my triggers and don’t have any breaking over 3lb.
Check your action stock fit, if it’s not in a chassis or doesn’t have a v-block bedding setup float the barrel and bed the action properly, I use JB pro weld have for nearly 20yrs with no issues.

I adjusted the trigger down to 2.5 lbs, the limit of the adjustment and what im comfortable with. I have bedded another rifle before with good results, but it’s also one of those if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.

 

[Mikido]

Also, are the other dots from trying to sight in?

View attachment 523010

Yes

 

[Mikido]

How much less?

Insignificant now that I checked. I guess I don’t have a good reason for a 200, or a 100 yd zero for that matter. I think my mind went down the 200 path bc I started my journey with a 308, and the difference was much greater there?

 

[svivian]

Insignificant now that I checked. I guess I don’t have a good reason for a 200, or a 100 yd zero for that matter. I think my mind went down the 200 path bc I started my journey with a 308, and the difference was much greater there?

I was going to say that it should be a marginal difference and a 100 yard group might give you a better idea of how the gun is shooting. IMO your actual group size is all of the dots (including the ones you covered) and I think you were chasing a zero that was inside your cone of accuracy. Just my .02 you'll hear a ton of opinions on the matter.