0 or 20 MOA Rail

[BlackTail]

I’m picking up a Christensen Arms Ridgeline in 6.5 PRC and am going to top it with a Leupold VX-6HD 3-18x50 with the TMOA reticle. Leupold lists 75 MOA of total elevation but with the 2 turn zero lock turret you only get 30 MOA (15 each turn) once your zero is set. With that being the case, would you guys still opt for a 20 MOA rail or just go for a 0 rail? This will be my first scope that I’ve twisted turrets on, so thought I’d ask the experts.

Thanks!

 

[tntrker]

-20 MOA rail if you are confidant at longer range, 500yrds+, shots. if yo're not going to be putting time in past that range then there's no need and just opt for the 0 rail.

 

[doverpack12]

30 MOA will get you a long ways with a 6.5 PRC. Punch in some quick ballistics and look at the max yardage for 30 MOA and then decide. I have a 260 and just used Talley lightweights and I can dial 28 MOA which will get me to 1000 in the right conditions and just under with heavy air. Plenty far for that rifle. I don't necessarily like rails from a weight perspective though so I try to avoid them unless I need the added rigidity or built in MOA.

 

[MTElkChaser]

I don’t see any downside to getting the 20 MOA rail version - other than they typically cost a little more.

I currently have the 1-Piece Talley Base/Rings on my 6.5 CM and I’m ordering a 20 MOA rail with new rings for the same reason you’re contemplating it. I have a Leupold VX5 HD and only have a few clicks past 2 complete revolutions before it bottoms out.

 

[BRTreedogs]

So unless you dont think the scope has enough up travel to zero your rifle there is no advantage to going to a zero rail.
The only difference is w a 20 rail the crosshair will be higher "in revolutions" in the scope at zero which will leave you with more down travel. Your zero stop will be set at a lower revolution on the turret.
My 243 is a little slower then your talking up at 800 I dial 20moa on a 20 moa rail.
40moa total. So with the travel your talking in that scope I could never even get there with a zero rail.
Depending on how the rifle zeroes.
I also believe that it can put a strain on the scope if your trying to dial into its maximum travel frequently "bottoming" and you would be better off being more in the center of travel.

 

[BlackTail]

MTElkChaser that was exactly my concern. Being close to maxed out at the end of the 2 turns. The 20 MOA rail won’t get me any more elevation (per se), just move it closer to the middle of the adjustment range which I’ve read is a better place to be.

The VX6 (and 5) have a pretty short tube in front of the turret so I was thinking the rail would give me a little more flexibility when setting up eye relief.

 

[jmden]

Go with the 20 with that scope. You also may end up getting a scope later on with significantly more elevation travel and then be stuck.

 

[hwy1strat]

20MOA

 

[General RE LEE]

Old thread but I’m considering one of the Sako S20 6.5 PRCs on discount at Euro Optic. Excellent rifle IMO except the remarkably silly 0 MOA integrated rail mount system that requires purchase of proprietary rail and rings to get 20 MOA.

Based off load data, 1000 yards would be an adjustment of 24 MOA. My Zeiss Conquest V6s has 103 MOA internal adjustment.

Seems I wouldn’t have a problem getting to 1K with just the 0 MOA rail no?

 

[jjjones7]

Old thread but I’m considering one of the Sako S20 6.5 PRCs on discount at Euro Optic. Excellent rifle IMO except the remarkably silly 0 MOA integrated rail mount system that requires purchase of proprietary rail and rings to get 20 MOA.

Based off load data, 1000 yards would be an adjustment of 24 MOA. My Zeiss Conquest V6s has 103 MOA internal adjustment.

Seems I wouldn’t have a problem getting to 1K with just the 0 MOA rail no?

I don’t see why it’s remarakably silly. Most modern scopes such as yours have a ton of adjustment. Most everyone these days are running higher BC bullets which drop a lot less at distance than projectiles of the past. Most cartridges running bullets with somewhere between a mid 5 and high 7 bc and a decent velocity will be just fine. There are a few scopes that I’ve experienced do need it and of course it will depend upon where you zero in your adjustment range and how far you want to shoot but 0 moa is suitable a large majority of the time in my experience.

 

[Mag_7s]

I agree with jjjones7. With the 100+ minutes of elevation travel optics have now, 0 moa rails and bases are a practical choice if your not shooting past ~ 1200 yds. I prefer the optic to be mounted as low as functionality possible, for me this helps with a more solid and consistent cheek weld.

 

[Mag_7s]

Seems I wouldn’t have a problem getting to 1K with just the 0 MOA rail no?

I dont have any experience with that optic, so going off of your numbers you will be more than good. I'm not sure what your zero will be, but you should have a little over 20 moa to spare.
I currently have an action on order that I specifically asked to have the integral mount at 0 moa.

 

[EsotericJunkie]

It depends on how far you plan on shooting. Determine your average long shot distance and then select the tapered base that works best for your application. A 10moa rail might be a better option than a 20moa rail based on your average long shot distance. The closer you are to optical center at your intended shooting distance the better and sharper the image will look.

EJ