Changing the bolt face is no big deal, I’ve done a ton of them no issues. To OP the action lengths are all the same, you can use the 7 mag or a Creed donor. Lots of ways to get there.
Well it’s upside down but you get the idea. Pre-64 M70, Green-T and Black-T. Customers’ guns have all been Black-T, I can look for pics if they don’t post any.
Thanks for the kind words guys. Things are pretty busy and I don’t get a lot of time to post on the forums but if anyone has questions about something shoot me an email. Lotta Tikka builds going out this year.
Sometimes the ejector has a burr. You can pull the trigger and ejector and stone the edge a tiny bit To allow it to ride over the edges. Don’t get too crazy though. Be prepared with an impact driver, the trigger screw is easy to strip.
Not the best pic, but first one I found. You can see the turrets machined smooth. On the 700 I chopped about 1” off the objective and chopped the windage off as well. Small changes, but makes a difference if you use a Gunbearer.
This is why I like to bed bases. These are talleys on a Defiance action. Bad pic but only contact points are the outer edges, and no, they don’t flex out to make full contact. The scope and mounts are arguably the most important part of the system, if we value hitting what we’re trying to hit...
double like..
I install and recommend Hawkins products, be it brakes, rings, or bottom metal. But the top of a 700 or other receiver cannot be as flat as the rings are machined. So either you Bed the bases, lap the rings, or you crank down the ring caps until stuff is bent into submission. Period.
Exactly. It doesn’t matter how much the rings or bases cost, if the goal is even contact they need to be lapped to some degree. The best way to tell if something needed to be lapped, is to lap it and see. Receivers are far from perfect and can be out in all planes.