I bought a 100 pack of these a few years back and stashed them in the truck, garage, tool boxes, gun cases, etc. When hunting I wear a pair around my neck tucked under my shirt and can quickly shove them in before taking a shot. They're made of silicone, so they don't need time to expand like...
When paper tuning, I always shoot multiple arrows at two different distances (usually 6 feet and 20-ish feet) to confirm the tear before I make any changes. At super close range, I think the arrow can still be flexing to a significant degree and can give deceiving paper tears. I also think...
It can be difficult to get a square cut with a Dremel. I would recommend building a jig to hold the Dremel in place with a guide to keep the arrow perpendicular to the blade as you cut. I would also recommend buying or building a squaring tool to sand the shaft square after cutting.
I'm talking length of the bare shaft from face of the carbon on the rear to face of the carbon on the front. The nock will add around 3/8" to the effective length of the arrow.
Pinwheel says you would be near perfect with a 340 spine cut 27.5" carbon-to-carbon with 116 gr on the front and 30 gr (approximate weight of 3 vanes + unlighted nock) on the rear. I remember your other thread now...don't you already have 340's with some extra length on them that you were...
Not hard. If you do mess up a few, just cut off the vanes, scrape off the glue, and try again.
That sounds like a good setup. What exactly are you looking for suggestions on?
Left vs. right fletching only matters if you're shooting a single bevel broadhead (fletching direction should match...
I pressed my VXR (similar limb design to a Phase 4) with a Synunm a few times before I got an EZ Green press. It's a bit sketchy any way you do it, but I think putting the fingers completely over the press brackets (not just finger tips in the "valley") is more secure.
Used SC once, won't use them again. I'm happy with the suppressor itself (Banish 30) but was unimpressed with the speed of SC's process. I received an approval notice from the ATF via email on 12/24/22 but didn't receive my suppressor until 2/7/23. Even accounting for the holidays in that...
Getting rid of the wrap and one vane is going to shave about 10 gr off the rear end (of a 515 gr arrow). The effect on FOC will be minor; I would guess you'll gain around 1%. If you're just itching to make a change and don't mind peeling wraps and gluing on vanes, go for it...but don’t expect...
My mistake...I thought Sevr had a 125 gr Deep Six option, but I see now that their D6 models are all 100 gr. Swhacker does offer at least one 125 gr Deep Six head.
You're splitting hairs...it won't make any appreciable difference either way.
Sevr and Schwacker offer mechancial heads with Deep Six threads BTW. There may be other D6 mechanicals that I'm not aware of.
Pinwheel estimates arrow speed based on the IBO speed, draw weight, draw length, arrow weight, etc entered by the user. Knowing actual arrow speed would enable a more precise spine recommendation, but dynamic spine calculation is not an exact science anyway so estimated speed will suffice. You...
How many inches left and at what yardage? What is the centershot measurement of your rest (i.e., horizontal distance from inside of riser to centerline of arrow)? Mathews recommends a centershot measurement of 13/16" ± 1/16". If your rest is already close to that, you might be able to bring...
The Outback is a perfectly capable hunting bow despite its age. It's much slower than more recent models but also much smoother. However, I understand your reluctance to invest several hundred dollars in a bow that old.
If you do decide to upgrade, a used Vertix would be a good candidate IMO...
New string/cable set will cost around $100-$150. Call your local Mathews dealer to get a price on a replacement cam (I'm guessing at least $100).
If you decide to get something new (or new to you), I would stick with a brand your local shop carries and is familiar working with. Diamond...