Archery Question? Change arrows in July?

[ddavis_1313]

Pinwheel asks for bow specs, weight of string components, arrow length, and weight of arrow components. What more does it need to know?
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Arrow speed is kind of important I would think. Not every bow shoots the same speed even if it’s the exact same setup. In my mind the more info you plug in the more accurate the info is being spit out. I’ll agree with pinwheel saying it’s slightly under spec though and I know it’s a good program. Just never understood how it could be precise.

Keep in mind this is coming from someone that will go full ocd over minute details.


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[ddavis_1313]

Ok. Fair enough. Say one week to decide on a new arrow comfiguration, assuming analysis paralysis doesn’t take over. An hour or two at the archery shop to get arrow cut to length, fletched, and inserts applied, pickup the next day. Seven weeks left then, still should be plenty of time…..

I agree. I had to restring a bow less than a month before an elk hunt, TWICE! Once was bc I accidentally nicked the string with a broad head. The other time was due to yoke loop failing during drawing back. Talk about serious stress! lol

He needs to go shoot his bow at a shop and get his speed then report back ASAP. I’ll have him a set built out in 20 mins that will be more than sufficient and fly like darts as long as who ever tunes his bow is remotely knowledgeable. It is a Mathews. Those are some of the easiest bows to tune.


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[Mighty Mouse]

Arrow speed is kind of important I would think. Not every bow shoots the same speed even if it’s the exact same setup. In my mind the more info you plug in the more accurate the info is being spit out. I’ll agree with pinwheel saying it’s slightly under spec though and I know it’s a good program. Just never understood how it could be precise.

Keep in mind this is coming from someone that will go full ocd over minute details.


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Pinwheel estimates arrow speed based on the IBO speed, draw weight, draw length, arrow weight, etc entered by the user. Knowing actual arrow speed would enable a more precise spine recommendation, but dynamic spine calculation is not an exact science anyway so estimated speed will suffice. You can still use AA for spine calcs without chronographing your arrow BTW...just enter an estimated arrow speed. The Ashby Bowhunting Foundation's website has the best free speed estimator that I've found.

 

[arcticpig]

Without current arrow speed I have no way of running your info through archers advantage software accurately. I would never buy/build arrows without double checking the data first. I’ve had a shop send me out the door with a nock left tear saying good enough bc bullets holes aren’t that important. Took me a week and learning how to use archers advance to find out I was way under spined at 340 and needed 300. Kinda not what you’d expect when you drop 1500 on a carbon bow and the guy that sold it to you is supposed to be the Hoyt expert. Honestly, I usually just take my bow in and tell them what I want done and how I want it. Most of the guys that work at a bow shop are f’king clueless about tuning bows and only care about selling you one and getting you out the door so they can sell another. It’s pathetic customer survice. it’s only positive in a business model of seeing as many customers in a day as possible.


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Thanks for trying to help. I'm going to go back and see if I can shoot paper there. I also am going to shoot 66 pounds draw weight for now to be safe. Next year I will have a draw board, bow press, and fletching jig. I'll be able to do most myself and I'm learning so I appreciate all your help. Thanks.

 

[butcherboy]

You can shoot the 340 but I would cut some off the end. Why are you shooting a 29 1/8” arrow with a 28 1/2” dl? You could cut that arrow down to 27 1/2” or 27” and it will stiffen the spine. I’ve shot axis 5mm and fmj 5mm 340’s for years. Everywhere from 65 lbs to 73 lbs. I have a 28” draw length and shoot a 27” arrow.

 

[ddavis_1313]

You can shoot the 340 but I would cut some off the end. Why are you shooting a 29 1/8” arrow with a 28 1/2” dl? You could cut that arrow down to 27 1/2” or 27” and it will stiffen the spine. I’ve shot axis 5mm and fmj 5mm 340’s for years. Everywhere from 65 lbs to 73 lbs. I have a 28” draw length and shoot a 27” arrow.

Some more solid advice here. Only time I’ve ever shot longer than DL is when that was the only way to achieve maximum spine with the setup I was shooting.

Just watch those fingers when you draw back if you go shorter with shaft length!


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[arcticpig]

If I had your data I could run it in the program and see where you are. If it needs to be tweaked I can make adjustments for your current arrows so when you buy new ones you know ow where to make changes.

If you wanted heavier arrows with inserts I could build those out then you know ow exactly what you need and can just tell them how to build them.

Also, if your BH’s are hitting left with your current setup then it’s one of two things. Either your underpinned or your bow is out of tune. I’m not too familiar with that Mathews but I don’t think it has yoke cables like mine. I have to yoke tune to get mine exact. Depending on your rest you could make micro adjustments to the right and see if that closes the gap between the BH and field point. With that said, don’t do this if you aren’t sure what I’m talking about or if your rest isn’t capable of micro adjustments. Furthermore, 4” is a long ways at 20 yards for difference in POI. It would make a lot more sense that your arrows are currently under spined vs your bow being way the hell out of tune. But then again, a majority of guys that work at bow shops….. f’king clueless.


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My rest doesn't have micro adjustments.

True but he doesn’t even know what arrow setup is optimum at this point even if he goes heavier.


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That's a very good point.

 

[arcticpig]

Some more solid advice here. Only time I’ve ever shot longer than DL is when that was the only way to achieve maximum spine with the setup I was shooting.

Just watch those fingers when you draw back if you go shorter with shaft length!


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I am nervous being new at fixed blade. Only shot mechanical and man those ramcats are close to my finger.

 

[ddavis_1313]

My rest doesn't have micro adjustments.

That's a very good point.

If you go shoot through a chrono report back and I’ll check everything for you. I’m sure the pinwheel program works too but I’m not familiar with it. I am confident in this software I use.


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[arcticpig]

If you go shoot through a chrono report back and I’ll check everything for you. I’m sure the pinwheel program works too but I’m not familiar with it. I am confident in this software I use.


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Next year I'm buying everything I need to and going to learn how to make my bow bullet hole my self. I am going to the shop tomorrow. Maybe he has one. I am honestly thinking I can make the 340 work for September.

I actually like the guy at my shop. Seems knowledgeable but who knows because I'm not...yet I just need to know how to make everything perfect myself.

 

[ddd-shooter]

My rest doesn't have micro adjustments.

That's a very good point.

Every rest can be adjusted in tiny increments. It just might be more difficult.
I’d move my rest ever so slightly before I rebuilt perfectly good arrows…

 

[Marshfly]

Yeah. It’s not that hard to tune a rest without micro adjust. Harder. But not hard.

 

[butcherboy]

I’m shooting a quad exodus swept broadhead. Pretty wide cutting diameter compared to other fixed blades of the same size. I’m from the old school days of overdraws and really short aluminum arrows.

 

[rclouse79]

Making changes this time of year makes me nervous. Whenever i plan to get new strings or arrows I do it in January.

 

[arcticpig]

Every rest can be adjusted in tiny increments. It just might be more difficult.
I’d move my rest ever so slightly before I rebuilt perfectly good arrows…

It does actually have micro adjustments. I don't know how that got there. It's ultra rest integrate mx2

 

[ddd-shooter]

It does actually have micro adjustments. I don't know how that got there. It's ultra rest integrate mx2

I’d bump my rest ever so slightly to the right.
That will change the point of impact for both broadheads and field points. Keep adjusting until they hit together. Then move your sight to get both to bullseye.

If you can’t ever get them together and broadheads are always left, it may be a weak spine, though I doubt it.

 

[Bump79]

How's it going. Have a question. I currently have a Matthews v3x 33 draw weight 70 draw length 28 and 1/2. Currently I have axis 5mm 340 29 1/8" arrows with 16 HIT inserts 100g tip 3 fletched. Running a spot hog 5 pin also. I'm running low on arrows unfortunately and don't know if I should stick with what I have or get a 300 spine with a 50 insert up front. I'm planning on doing archery in Colorado begining of September for elk. I would also like to do a black bear hunt if I have time and white tail in the north east. I'm going to try to hunt all different big game and small game.

My main question is number one what do you think about a heavier arrow shooting in places out west for big game? Is the added weight going to slow down the arrow too much for 50 and 60 yard shots?

Also is it too late in the year to be switching arrows? Should I just stick with 340s and next year change it up? I would like to not drop money on something I know is going to change.

I hope I'm not forgetting any info but if I am let me know.

I shot this exact arrow setup when I got back into archery. Passed through 3-4 animals no problem. I don't see any benefit in adding mass for this setup for western hunting.

If anything, I'd go to a lighter GPI 300 shaft with more durable components to get the same arrow weight. Focus on the broadhead for the application. Elk size game I'd go fixed 3b or 2b with bleeders as sharp as possible. Deer size you can get away with a larger cut size. Antelope, I'd launch a mechanical all day every day.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

your arrow weight is fine, your tune is not, your spine might not be. if you're going to switch shafts do it as soon as possible.

 

[sndmn11]

That's the thing. My broadheads seem to be going left unless I lower my bow 4 pounds. I'm shooting ramcats. So I'm thinking I might be a little under spined.

Turn the bow down 5 pounds, try again.

I'd bet a pinky toe and a pinky finger you lose less than 5fps, your sight pins won't change, and you will have a better penetrating arrow because it will be tuned. You'll also be more accurate.

Your solution is right in front of you and it sounds like it's already been confirmed.