First arrow build

[arcticpig]

Pinwheel says you would be near perfect with a 340 spine cut 27.5" carbon-to-carbon with 116 gr on the front and 30 gr (approximate weight of 3 vanes + unlighted nock) on the rear. I remember your other thread now...don't you already have 340's with some extra length on them that you were struggling to tune? If so, you could trim them down, put in new inserts, and possibly save yourself a couple hundred bucks vs. buying/building a whole new set of arrows.
View attachment 737597View attachment 737598

A HIT is the best insert option for a 5mm arrow IMO.

Honestly the pro shop guy had the bow tune messed up. Retune the whole bowl with the help of everyone. This community is amazing. Unfortunately I lost a few arrows due to tuning the bow and then going out to 60 yards and shooting before moving my sight ECT. So I need new arrows anyway. Man I'm scared to cut them down another half inch. I'm going to take the Dremel to an old arrow and test it out. Thanks for running that. I'm guessing that is what I'm doing.

 

[arcticpig]

I fletch way too many arrows to use a Blitz. I think custom angles and such are totally unnecessary anyway. Fast and easy.

Do you use the mini? Which one should I get?

 

[arcticpig]

Pinwheel says you would be near perfect with a 340 spine cut 27.5" carbon-to-carbon with 116 gr on the front and 30 gr (approximate weight of 3 vanes + unlighted nock) on the rear. I remember your other thread now...don't you already have 340's with some extra length on them that you were struggling to tune? If so, you could trim them down, put in new inserts, and possibly save yourself a couple hundred bucks vs. buying/building a whole new set of arrows.
View attachment 737597View attachment 737598

A HIT is the best insert option for a 5mm arrow IMO.

Also are you talking about arrow length with the nock on and going to the middle of the nock or bare shaft?

 

[Marshfly]

Honestly the pro shop guy had the bow tune messed up. Retune the whole bowl with the help of everyone. This community is amazing. Unfortunately I lost a few arrows due to tuning the bow and then going out to 60 yards and shooting before moving my sight ECT. So I need new arrows anyway. Man I'm scared to cut them down another half inch. I'm going to take the Dremel to an old arrow and test it out. Thanks for running that. I'm guessing that is what I'm doing.

Leave them as is. Do not cut them with a dremel. They need to be cut square and then squared with a squaring tool. If you don’t have that equipment leave them alone.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Also are you talking about arrow length with the nock on and going to the middle of the nock or bare shaft?

I'm talking length of the bare shaft from face of the carbon on the rear to face of the carbon on the front. The nock will add around 3/8" to the effective length of the arrow.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

if you're going with a stock component set up, i don't think you can beat the convenience of the black ovis arrow building service. 10% off for rokslide members too. I only build my own when i want to mix and match components, like using hits in rip tko.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I'm going to take the Dremel to an old arrow and test it out.

It can be difficult to get a square cut with a Dremel. I would recommend building a jig to hold the Dremel in place with a guide to keep the arrow perpendicular to the blade as you cut. I would also recommend buying or building a squaring tool to sand the shaft square after cutting.

 

[butcherboy]

The right hot melt glue is not junk. I’ve never lost an insert in any target in over 30 years. I used the epoxy with HIT inserts once and I will never ever do that again. I like to change things sometimes with inserts and broadheads using the same arrows. I don’t have to buy new arrows using hot melt. Heat it up in some boiling water with a fieldpoint and they come right out. I reused the arrows with the epoxied inserts but I had to do the drill bit trick and swing those arrows like I was Babe Ruth! I pulled some muscles in my arm and back doing that. I’m too dang poor to buy new arrows every time I want to switch inserts out.

I like the Arizona mini as well. I’ve fletched so many arrows with that thing it’s unreal. I don’t do the offset thing either. I like a helical on my arrows.

 

[Marshfly]

If boiling water will remove your hot melt it will pull out in a carpet target with a fast bow. Zero question. I moved on quickly as losing inserts is for the birds. If all you shoot is foam it’s probably fine.

I do only shoot 5mm arrow though so the point is larger than the shaft.

Maybe there’s some super strong stuff though. I’m all ears.

For normal inserts the AAE glue is awesome. Removable without arrow damage and never comes out.

 

[butcherboy]

You think a fast bow is going to heat that glue up that hot? The target does create friction and it will heat up a tiny fraction and then cool really fast. I think the reason you have had inserts pull out is by your own admission of shooting fieldpoints that are larger in diameter than your arrow. I also shoot 5mm arrows and all my field points are the same diameter where they meet with the arrow.

I added up the years I’ve been building my own arrows. It’s actually 37 years. Longer if I count all the arrows I made as a kid with a stick and some bird feathers I found somewhere.

 

[big44a4]

Depends how deep you want to go down the rabbit hole. Arrow builders and shops charge a premium as they have employees and overhead costs to account for.

I started building a lot for friends a couple years ago and have never looked back. Saves a lot in the long run $50-100+ per dozen. Plus no one will care as much as you about your own equipment.

 

[rkcdvm]

Definitely build them yourself. You care more about how well they’re built than the guy at the shop. It’s not hard to build arrows. The biggest tip I learned when I started was after the shaft is cut and squared, assemble everything before you glue it , and spin it again to make sure it’s spinning well. Components, broadheads, etc can also be crooked and if they have a defect it doesn’t matter how straight the shaft is. For fletching I just use the Arizona EZ fletch these days. The bitz is great but it’s tedious for me to use (personal preference.)
Plus you save a crazy amount of money cutting and assembling them yourself. Don’t use a crappy arrow spinner . I used a pine ridge spinner for a long time but when I purchased a sirius archery spinner I found that my arrows were much straighter than I thought.