Zeiss v4 vs. VX5-HD vs. NF SHV or go higher end?

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Aug 9, 2019
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I had a Monarch 3 and the lens got quite badly scratched due to some unfortunate circumstances on a hunt in Alaska. Nikon wont fix/replace them but after some back and forth they are sending me a check since the riflescopes are discontinued.

I recently upgraded my binos to the Monarch HGs and have been extremely happy with them compared to my Maven C1's. It's been my first venture into better quality glass. I don't know much about higher end riflescopes and most of what I have read has been around better clarity/low light performance and tracking. I was quite happy with my Nikon scope but never really pushed it out past 300-400 yards at the range. Im building a better rifle setup in general right now.

These 3 scopes have constantly come up as good recommendations. I'm willing to spend a bit more also if the price can be justified. I dial in most of the time and never really used the BDC reticle.
 
Of the three, the NF is the most sturdiest built. The NF 3-10x42 is short and reasonably light and will be within the realm of the others. The NF is likely the shortest of the three scopes so ring mounting position can be harder if you really need to set it back further to get good eye relief.

I have several NF SHV 3-10x42s mounted on my rifles and they are reliable and tough. I think the V4 is not as well built of the ones I've handled and seen being used. The NF just feels and looks tougher when you handle it and weight is almost identical.

A mate of mine is a guide and has seen a number of problems with VX5 scopes losing zero or having other issues on client rifles. He also had a problem with one personally that wouldn't dial correctly after quite a bit of use. For that matter, he has said the same of Swarovski Z3/Z5 line being easily damaged if dropped and losing zero (scope tube easily damaged/bent causing failure).

For a rifle scope I would prioritize reliabiliity over all other considerations. The scopes today all have glass that is good enough that it won't make you miss a shot one way or another. What will make you miss though is if the scope shifts zero or does not dial correctly.

FWIW, I could afford to go much higher end for scopes on my rifles, but the SHV 3-10x42 is so good that I just don't feel the need to spend the money. It compares well against my much more expensive competition scopes in any area that is important to hunting (weight, clarity, reliability).
 
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I know alot of folks have mentioned the holding zero issues with the VX5, I have never experienced it myself...I love mine and would have bough another if the prices on them had not gone up so much...2 yrs ago you could find deals, now not so much. I recently got a Zeiss V4 and love the clarity, its right there with the Vx5 in my opinion. I can't speak to the zero holding quality yet as I just picked it up over the summer. For me those two so far in my mind are even, and I'd get the one you can get the best deal on. Never owned a NF or even looked thru on to be honest.
 
I've had all of the scopes you mentioned for multiple years (as well as the LHT and others in the class). If you can swing the funds, step up to the NXS Compact 2.5-10, otherwise stick with NF and the SHV.
 
I have both and they are excellent. The VX5 HD is a bit lighter with a zero lock on the turret.
 
I have Zeiss, Leupold and Swarovski scopes, but not the specific models you’re interested in knowing about.

I really like my Swaro Z6i. If you’re going to spend a lot of time behind it in a varmint hunting application, I’d get the Swarovski.
 
Of the three, the NF is the most sturdiest built. The NF 3-10x42 is short and reasonably light and will be within the realm of the others. The NF is likely the shortest of the three scopes so ring mounting position can be harder if you really need to set it back further to get good eye relief.

I have several NF SHV 3-10x42s mounted on my rifles and they are reliable and tough. I think the V4 is not as well built of the ones I've handled and seen being used. The NF just feels and looks tougher when you handle it and weight is almost identical.

A mate of mine is a guide and has seen a number of problems with VX5 scopes losing zero or having other issues on client rifles. He also had a problem with one personally that wouldn't dial correctly after quite a bit of use. For that matter, he has said the same of Swarovski Z3/Z5 line being easily damaged if dropped and losing zero (scope tube easily damaged/bent causing failure).

For a rifle scope I would prioritize reliabiliity over all other considerations. The scopes today all have glass that is good enough that it won't make you miss a shot one way or another. What will make you miss though is if the scope shifts zero or does not dial correctly.

FWIW, I could afford to go much higher end for scopes on my rifles, but the SHV 3-10x42 is so good that I just don't feel the need to spend the money. It compares well against my much more expensive competition scopes in any area that is important to hunting (weight, clarity, reliability).
I have one as well, and really like it.

If they would only make an F1 model with a good reticle......
 
i've had nothing but issues with my v4. Ive had 2 of them and the turret comes loose after about 30 shots. Same thing just happened to a friend
 
i've had nothing but issues with my v4. Ive had 2 of them and the turret comes loose after about 30 shots. Same thing just happened to a friend
Do you mean that you have to retighten the Allen bolts to retighten the turret?
 
I have never had the VX5 and SHV lines side by side, I have had a chance to handle and shoot both of them. The Leupold glass seems to be a little nicer to my eyes, but that could be have just been my imagination. The Leupold locking turret is also nicer than the Zero Set on the SHV to me as well.

Having said that, the SHV F1 is what was on my rifle for a couple of years simply because I trusted it more. It may not have been the best in any single category, but it performed well enough for me and I didn't worry about it like I did the VX5.
 
I have the vx5 and viper hd LHT. Both are awesome but my eyes seem to like the Leopold glass better.
A good friend of mine had to send a V4 in for warranty work. Never owned one personally
 
Do you mean that you have to retighten the Allen bolts to retighten the turret?
The moa turret will come loose and will not click. It’s a pain the the butt you have to RE zero. 2nd scope it’s happened on and zeiss keeps telling me it’s my fault that I’m not tightening it down enough
 
The moa turret will come loose and will not click. It’s a pain the the butt you have to RE zero. 2nd scope it’s happened on and zeiss keeps telling me it’s my fault that I’m not tightening it down enough
I can see those turret screws/bolts coming loose; it doesn't take much to loosen them when taking off the turret. But you shouldn't have to re zero if your zero stop is still in place, and the zero stop seems quite rock solid on the V4. Maybe I'm not understanding the issue though. Just trying to avoid any problems with my V4.
 
There are quite a few threads on here about scope suggestions, but more importantly (IMHO) there are a series of threads in which scopes are tested by @Formidilosus. After reading those threads I picked the 3-10x42 SHV and am awaiting delivery. And like @Southern Lights, I could afford to pay more. I may even replace my Swaro Z5 on another rifle with the same SHV, or maybe another NF.
 
Only one of those scopes is worthy of consideration. The Nightforce. The other 2 have nice glass but don't work reliably. No need to waste any more of your time. Buy the NF and go hunting.
 
I can see those turret screws/bolts coming loose; it doesn't take much to loosen them when taking off the turret. But you shouldn't have to re zero if your zero stop is still in place, and the zero stop seems quite rock solid on the V4. Maybe I'm not understanding the issue though. Just trying to avoid any problems with my V4.
So I’ll click up to say 8 moa to shoot that distance. It’ll come loose and I can’t turn it back to zero using the turret. You have to tack it off to get back to zero
 
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