Yellowstone/Glacier vacation

[JGTWI]

Since a lot of you on this forum live in this part of the country, I figured I’d ask…

Some family and I are leaving on Sunday for 11 days out west, driving from WI to Custer state park, and then have some multi-night stays in Cody, WY, west Yellowstone, and near Glacier National Park. Besides a day seeing a few sights in Cody, most of the trip will be focused around hiking and sightseeing in the parks (none of us have been to either).

Any tips, must see/stop places, restaurants, etc that anyone wants to pass along would be appreciated. I’m preparing myself for the likelihood of crowds, traffic, etc based upon what I’ve been told by friends.

It’s probably worth mentioning we’ll have 3 kids with us, ages 8,6, and 4.

I’m normally a planner, but have been busy this summer so have taken the approach that I’m just going to have a more relaxed take on this endeavor. But alas, now I want to make sure I don’t mess up and miss out on things I should have known better about.

Thanks in advance!

 

[nodakian]

I just went through Glacier today. Great scenery, but what a zoo!! I wanted to hike, but my Boy Scouts were tired and mopy, and it was difficult to find a parking spot. This was my 4th or 5th trip, and I will probably never go back in the peak season.

Can't help much with age appropriate activities in that area, but some of the trails should be OK. I'd recommend the Summit trail if you can find a parking spot. It was full by 9 this morning. Get in the entry line EARLY.

 

[bobr1]

I would recommend carefully reading the park websites for travel related information. I believe 2 of the entrances are still closed in Yellowstone from the flooding. And for glacier you need to try to get a ticket for the going to the sun road, unless you have a reservation at one of the lodges or campground. The tickets are very difficult to get and are sold out within seconds/minutes. Again read the website for glacier because it is pretty difficult to get into this summer. Also fire season has started and it will be hit or miss on visibility and air quality but that’s nothing you can control.

Good luck

 

[Goodtimekiller]

I would pick one or the other and see most of that one. Wee tried this one year and with all the driving we felt like we missed a lot trying to see both.

Cody has a rodeo every night, worth seeing as well. Definitely make sure how you can get in to yellowstone if going there.


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[Carpet Capital Shyster]

Since a lot of you on this forum live in this part of the country, I figured I’d ask…

Some family and I are leaving on Sunday for 11 days out west, driving from WI to Custer state park, and then have some multi-night stays in Cody, WY, west Yellowstone, and near Glacier National Park. Besides a day seeing a few sights in Cody, most of the trip will be focused around hiking and sightseeing in the parks (none of us have been to either).

Any tips, must see/stop places, restaurants, etc that anyone wants to pass along would be appreciated. I’m preparing myself for the likelihood of crowds, traffic, etc based upon what I’ve been told by friends.

It’s probably worth mentioning we’ll have 3 kids with us, ages 8,6, and 4.

I’m normally a planner, but have been busy this summer so have taken the approach that I’m just going to have a more relaxed take on this endeavor. But alas, now I want to make sure I don’t mess up and miss out on things I should have known better about.

Thanks in advance!

We did Yellowstone/Grand Teton in 2020 when my kids were 8 and 4 and Glacier last year when they were 9 and 5. My kids absolutely loved Yellowstone but they just hated Glacier. They were too young to appreciate Glacier, plus it was a zoo. Even with the ticketed entry, all the trailheads and parking lots were full. The kids really enjoyed seeing all the animals in Yellowstone and Grand Teton whereas we just didn’t see a tons of animals in Glacier. My kids loved Cody, Wyoming where we stayed for half the trip at great and reasonably priced guest ranch on the hwy between Cody and the Park. It was called Bill Cody Ranch. My kids still talk about that place with fondness and mention it a whole lot more than the 4-5 Disney trips that they’ve been on. They rode horses about 3/4 of the days at the ranch and the prices for the rides were reasonable as well.

There’s some incredible fishing around the Cody area. If you’re looking for a guide, I can highly recommend North Fork Anglers. I had one of the best days I’ve ever had fishing anywhere with them on a day last July. If you want to try to do some fishing yourself, I’d be happy to help you out with some resources.

If it were me, I’d focus on Yellowstone/ Grand Teton, find somewhere around cody to base out of and do some riding and tourism in the park. Don’t miss the Bill Cody museum, it’s great. I’d recommend heading up to Red Lodge, MT and then doing the Beartooth Highway, assuming it is open after all the flooding issues. My whole family actually liked that more than the Going to the Sun Road, which was surprising. It is a true gem of a scenic highway. If they’re allowing vehicle traffic in the NE section of YNP, then make sure you go through the Lamar valley in the evening or early morning to animal spot.

Don’t sleep on Glacier. Obviously, I think it’s a great area as I’m heading back to the region for a fishing trip in 3 weeks which will be my third trip there in 13 months. The park is just crowded but the whole area is amazing. We stayed in Whitefish and it is probably our favorite town in the Rockies. Good food and a walkable downtown. Don’t miss going up to the Polebridge area to see the North Fork side of glacier. I cannot emphasize enough how special that area is. Hanging out on Flathead lake was my kids favorite part of the trip. It’s a really incredible body of water, very clear and there’s a great park in Lakeside, MT for swimming. I’d also recommend heading over to the Many Glacier area as the scenery out there is nothing short of incredible. Finally, we also enjoyed a place in Essex Mt called the Izaak Walton Inn. It’s worth a stop for a night or two with good food, good lodging and just a real cool scene.

It might be pretty exhausting to try to do both Glacier and YNP/Grand Teton but on an 11 day trip, it could probably be done. If you have to choose, I’d probably recommend focusing on YNP and Grand Teton just because of the age of your kids. Crowds were worse for us in Glacier. Seemed like everyone and their brother was there. I’m from a medium sized town in North Georgia and personally knew 4 different families/ groups that were out there when we were.

 

[FarleyMcJohnson]

I just did that trip from MN over the 4th. I was able to see most of Yellowstone, except for Lamar Valley and those roads that go north. You can go to West Yellowstone and head up along the Galliston River to get north out of Yellowstone.

Then I stayed in Bozeman 2 nights that was fun, I did not have kids with but seemed like there was plenty to do for kids in that city like waterparks and museums or whatever kids do.

Going to the Sun road in Glacier was closed, but the morning I left for Glacier I got online and got a pass for the Polebridge enterance and took my kayak up to Bowman Lake. That was awesome up there. Polebridge is a cool place with a Mercantile and a bar in the middle of nowhere.

I went a different way out there though, I stayed in the northern Black Hills, then the Bighorns via Buffalo WY, then south through Thermopolis, which I hear is a great place to bring kids, lots of dinasaur museum type stuff, hot springs, etc... but went up the Wind River Range and camped up at Brooks Lake. If you went that way I would absolutley suggest a couple hours at the National Museum of Military Vehicles that blew me away how good of a job they did with that.

 

[Ondavirg]

We are in glacier now with 4 kids age 5-15. It’s our first trip, and it did not disappoint. Many Glacier was phenomenal. My favorite pics are from there. We saw moose and bear near fishercap lake, which is a short hike from the Swiftcurrent trailhead I believe. Even the 5 year old did the Grinnell Glacier hike to the closure at the waterfall (I think they opened it the whole way now though) and that was a beautiful hike. Hiking from Logan Pass was the best, and the sheep and goats wander in and out all day there. Highline trail was my favorite hike with the unparalleled views from the top of the continental divide. I’d do some whitewater rafting on the Flathead river if you have time.

The crowds are as bad as Disney though, and the only way to ensure a party spot at Logan Pass is to be in line at 545 if entering from the west side. It’s a race to the top. Don’t stop to look at the sunrise. It takes you til 710 to get up there and the lot will be full by 720. There’s basically no chance of getting ANY parking spot anywhere on the Going to the Sun Road after 8 until 4 or 5. The kids got tired of getting up early, so we started doing some late evening hikes. We got spots after 6 reliably. Animals were active then as well. Be careful trying to get into Many Glacier as well. They will close the whole thing when it’s full. Long ride over there too.

 

[JGTWI]

Thanks for all the replies, that’s very helpful. Those pictures are incredible!

 

[wesfromky]

For me, the best part of Yellowstone is mostly closed right night - the Lamar valley out to the NE entrance, But, the rest of the park is still a very big place. Stops depend on what you like - thermal features don't do much for me, but a lot of people are really into them.

For general advice, plan on being up super early, esp if you are coming in from Cody - that is probably a 30-60 minute drive depending on traffic, with maybe a wait to get through the entrance. One other stat is that something like 90 percent of the visitors never make it farther then 100 yards from a road, so if your little ones are up for it, doing some day hikes will leave the crowds behind. I spent many weeks in the park in the past, but before it got as crazy as it is now. I would generally drive out to Lamar predawn, hang out there until traffic started to pick up, go do a day hike, then lunch, then maybe another short hike, before heading back out an hour or so before dark.

If you have a spotting scope, bring it

Tetons are amazing as well. Take the ferry across Jenny like and hike up cascade canyon.

As others have mentioned, I wouldn't try to work Glacier in for this trip - just a lot of driving and unless you can get into the backcoutry, Glacier seemed way more crowded.

The other thing that most people miss, is that there is a ton of FS/BLM/Etc land with hiking outside of the park that might not be as crowded.

 

[Razz]

Here is a link to Yellowstone NP’s entrances and restrictions. YNP Entrances

Yellowstone to Glacier is in the realm of an 8 hour drive.

From the interior of Yellowstone to Grand Teton NP is in the realm of 1 1/2 hours.

If you venture into Grand Teton NP and want to hike, think about early morning starts for two reasons. Trailhead parking is less of a hassle and this time of year afternoon thunderstorms can build up, so check the weather.

The rodeo in Cody is a hoot, same for Jacksons. Jackson’s is Wed, Fri, Sat.

 

[JGTWI]

For me, the best part of Yellowstone is mostly closed right night - the Lamar valley out to the NE entrance, But, the rest of the park is still a very big place. Stops depend on what you like - thermal features don't do much for me, but a lot of people are really into them.

For general advice, plan on being up super early, esp if you are coming in from Cody - that is probably a 30-60 minute drive depending on traffic, with maybe a wait to get through the entrance. One other stat is that something like 90 percent of the visitors never make it farther then 100 yards from a road, so if your little ones are up for it, doing some day hikes will leave the crowds behind. I spent many weeks in the park in the past, but before it got as crazy as it is now. I would generally drive out to Lamar predawn, hang out there until traffic started to pick up, go do a day hike, then lunch, then maybe another short hike, before heading back out an hour or so before dark.

If you have a spotting scope, bring it

Tetons are amazing as well. Take the ferry across Jenny like and hike up cascade canyon.

As others have mentioned, I wouldn't try to work Glacier in for this trip - just a lot of driving and unless you can get into the backcoutry, Glacier seemed way more crowded.

The other thing that most people miss, is that there is a ton of FS/BLM/Etc land with hiking outside of the park that might not be as crowded.

Thanks. We already have our lodging booked, so we’re doing Yellowstone and glacier for better or worse. My initial plan was to just do glacier, but it turned into a more involved trip. I know I’m going to be tired of crowds and time in the mini van by the end of it…

I’ve been debating back and forth about bringing the spotting scope. We’re going to have so much sh!t packed in that van that I’ve been leaning towards leaving it home

 

[hunterjmj]

Not sure how much time you have but Virginia City is a fun place for kids. Candy store, ice cream, gold panning and a small train ride. Butte has a great city park with a carrousel, zip line, water park and great food at Front Street Market. Those are a couple things I can think of that'll give you a break from the NP's and fun for the kids. One day at Yellowstone will wear you out so make sure to get some relaxing in.

 

[wesfromky]

I’ve been debating back and forth about bringing the spotting scope. We’re going to have so much sh!t packed in that van that I’ve been leaning towards leaving it home

You will see a bunch of roadside wildlife, but having a spotter really opens wildlife viewing up, esp wolves and bears. Most of yellowstone is big, open country and this time of the year, a lot of the wildlife will be at higher elevations, so glassing from the road is usually pretty helpful. I would for sure bring whatever binos you have.

 

[wyosteve]

Hope you have reservations in Custer. Sturgis rally starts today!

 

[wind gypsy]

I went to yellowstone one time without a spotter. It was a mistake. There were multiple cool goat, sheep, griz, and muley sightings i was wanting my spotter for.

 

[Wihunter12]

Black Hills Burger and Bun in Custer, highly recommended! I would find a way to bring the spotter, definitely wished I had more power than binoculars when we were in Yellowstone.

 

[Dos Perros]

Everyone can wash a couple pair of undies in a creek, pack the spotter and keep it handy.

 

[JGTWI]

Everyone can wash a couple pair of undies in a creek, pack the spotter and keep it handy.

Ok, I’m convinced. The spotter is coming with.

 

[JGTWI]

Hope you have reservations in Custer. Sturgis rally starts today!

Yeah, we’ve had our lodging reserved for quite some time now. But finding where to stay in SD was tricky even 4-5 months ago. Took us a bit to figure out why.

 

[timberland]

A beautiful drive for a couple hours out of Cody is 296 (Chief Joseph hwy??) then up to beartooth pass. it will take a few hours but saw grizzlies and snowboarders in June