Who mounts their quiver upside down on their bow (poll)

Do you run your quiver upside down (broadheads point down)

  • Yes

  • No


Results are only viewable after voting.
I hang my bow at the range upside down to make it easier to put my arrows in, and ALWAYS flip the bow upside down when putting broadheads arrows in.
 
If your arrows are falling out, you need a new quiver designed for the diameter you are shooting. Can't think of any other reason to do this.
 
I mount my quiver upside down on my Halon 32. Because of the Mathews mounting points for their Arrow Web quivers, the weight of quiver is actually lower than my grip and stabilizer. I have found it to help steady my aim, but I'm sure it is subjective to every shooter. I can see the concern for moisture and debris buildup (I can't argue against it), but, so far, it hasn't been an issue for me.
 

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You guys running them upside down must sit in tree stands. I’d constantly be raking them out of my quiver on brush if I carried them fletchings first when busting brush chasing critters around the woods. If your arrows are loose buy a new quiver better, some like tight spot have adjustable rubber grippers so you can tighten them.
 
You guys running them upside down must sit in tree stands. I’d constantly be raking them out of my quiver on brush if I carried them fletchings first when busting brush chasing critters around the woods. If your arrows are loose buy a new quiver better, some like tight spot have adjustable rubber grippers so you can tighten them.
I've only hunted out of a ground blind, so far, but intend to do some spot and stalk. In that scenario, I may only put 3 arrows in the quiver or carry it in my pack.
 
I also run a Mathews HD quiver upside down on my Halon 32 and Halon X Comp.

The bow balances better here, and I'm not worried about "rust" even though I live in Oregon and it rains a ton. Though I wish it wound rain a ton NOW since some of our hunting areas are closed due to fire risk.

A little bit of museum wax on the broadheads can protect from rust.
 
For the guys that mount with the fletching up....don't you catch it on a ton of stuff if stalking? I know crawling would be a pain in the ass.
I've only hunted out of a ground blind, so far, but intend to do some spot and stalk. In that scenario, I may only put 3 arrows in the quiver or carry it in my pack.
I carried my quiver on my pack for a few years and 90% of the time it was no big deal. However, a couple time it was more than annoying when going in for a stalk because I would drop my pack and have to have the quiver in one hand and the bow in the other.

Also, one time I made a not perfect shot (still fatal) but I ran over a little ridge to keep eyes on the deer. Well my quiver was on my pack and when I crested the ridge the deer was 30 yards standing. My arrows....they were 40 yards away. My recommendation keep them on the bow.
 
This thread taught me to turn my bow upside down when putting arrows into my quiver. For that I am thankful.
 
I also run a Mathews HD quiver upside down on my Halon 32 and Halon X Comp.

The bow balances better here, and I'm not worried about "rust" even though I live in Oregon and it rains a ton. Though I wish it wound rain a ton NOW since some of our hunting areas are closed due to fire risk.

A little bit of museum wax on the broadheads can protect from rust.

The mathews would balance even better if you could point the quiver down and towards the string. Why not just use a back bar ? Or buy a bow that balances better. ( and believe it or not I was a mathews fan boy for a very very long time) They are just top heavy now, and I finally switched brands.
 
The mathews would balance even better if you could point the quiver down and towards the string. Why not just use a back bar ? Or buy a bow that balances better. ( and believe it or not I was a mathews fan boy for a very very long time) They are just top heavy now, and I finally switched brands.
Definitely an option. I'm not a Mathews fanboy (I don't think so at least!) but do know their ecosystem at this point and so feel comfortable there. I've eyed the Bowtech Reckoning 35, because their Deadlock tuning system seems effective and consumer-friendly. My one request for Mathews is to offer smoother and more affordable tuning solutions for the average archer. Switchweight mods and top hats are elegant and bulletproof, but expensive if you want to play around with setups. Plus, most of the work has to be done with a press. Not a problem for me, but most folks still don't run their own press.

Back bar can help. I shoot a 10" back bar with 13 oz weight and a 15" front bar with 3.5 oz. That's what balanced over a week of shooting, closed-eye draws, and final group tuning while shooting vertical and horizontal lines at 60 yards while adding/removing an ounce or two to the back and tracking group size and fliers. This is a Broadwater technique that I like a lot.

That said, the best fix for a bow that feels "top heavy" to me is to play around with D-loop height until you get the bow feeling just perfect. Raising the d-loop just 1'8" has a dramatic effect on pulling the top of the bow back toward you. I spend days and sometimes over a week dialing in my d-loop position WITHOUT any stabs or peep installed to make sure that the bow holds well. For the Halon 32 (which has a nasty reputation for being top heavy), I ended up with the d-loop over 1/4" high and arrow running through top of Berger hole. At this point, the bow is no longer top heavy because I'm pulling more against the upper half.

Sometimes I forget the stabilizers at home when I go to my local range and can shoot fine without them too because the bow is so balanced through d-loop position. The stabs are mostly to counter the weight of my sight and quiver and reduce my after shot rotation if my release doesn't go off just perfect because of wind, sloppy shot, etc.

Long-winded explanation, but hopefully someone who's shooting a Mathews (or any bow that isn't balancing just right) might be inspired to play with d-loop height to get the bow pulling exactly how it feels strong and balanced to you. Lots of tuning tips out there say to run the arrow through center of berger hole, and this is a great starting point, but you've got about 1/8" to 3/8" to play with if you want a certain hold or feel to shoot your best.
 
Definitely an option. I'm not a Mathews fanboy (I don't think so at least!) but do know their ecosystem at this point and so feel comfortable there. I've eyed the Bowtech Reckoning 35, because their Deadlock tuning system seems effective and consumer-friendly. My one request for Mathews is to offer smoother and more affordable tuning solutions for the average archer. Switchweight mods and top hats are elegant and bulletproof, but expensive if you want to play around with setups. Plus, most of the work has to be done with a press. Not a problem for me, but most folks still don't run their own press.

Back bar can help. I shoot a 10" back bar with 13 oz weight and a 15" front bar with 3.5 oz. That's what balanced over a week of shooting, closed-eye draws, and final group tuning while shooting vertical and horizontal lines at 60 yards while adding/removing an ounce or two to the back and tracking group size and fliers. This is a Broadwater technique that I like a lot.

That said, the best fix for a bow that feels "top heavy" to me is to play around with D-loop height until you get the bow feeling just perfect. Raising the d-loop just 1'8" has a dramatic effect on pulling the top of the bow back toward you. I spend days and sometimes over a week dialing in my d-loop position WITHOUT any stabs or peep installed to make sure that the bow holds well. For the Halon 32 (which has a nasty reputation for being top heavy), I ended up with the d-loop over 1/4" high and arrow running through top of Berger hole. At this point, the bow is no longer top heavy because I'm pulling more against the upper half.

Sometimes I forget the stabilizers at home when I go to my local range and can shoot fine without them too because the bow is so balanced through d-loop position. The stabs are mostly to counter the weight of my sight and quiver and reduce my after shot rotation if my release doesn't go off just perfect because of wind, sloppy shot, etc.

Long-winded explanation, but hopefully someone who's shooting a Mathews (or any bow that isn't balancing just right) might be inspired to play with d-loop height to get the bow pulling exactly how it feels strong and balanced to you. Lots of tuning tips out there say to run the arrow through center of berger hole, and this is a great starting point, but you've got about 1/8" to 3/8" to play with if you want a certain hold or feel to shoot your best.


How does your nock travel work out with that?


The new Mathew's are setup to have the nocking point centered between the axles. They have tuned pretty easy for me like that, however that is what makes them feel top heavy, you are holding well below center.
 
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