Which Arrows - Looking For 450 grains

[Sled]

Listen to mighty mouse as he has good, well explained advice.

My .02... keep it simple. A 5mm carbon shaft, no outserts or half outs. Something with a HIT. Arrow should be about an inch or so shorter than your DL.

You can add up components and mess with arrow length to get an approximate weight near what you want.

Just don't make it complicated. Each additional component adds run out, complexity and cost. And most of that stuff is not needed.

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I'll agree with the advice above but add that a simple footer added to thinner walled arrows with the HIT can add durability and are well worth the cost/weight added.

 

[Thinkingman]

Funny...I shoot a BTX28 at 27" and have my 340 spline Axis with HIT inserts and 100gr Slick Tricks right at 455gr.
I would absolutely shoot 340 spline arrows at that weight.

 

[bowhiker88]

I’d shoot a 300 in that situation. You really can’t over spine past a certain draw weight and arrow speed. I’m sub 70lbs and a 250 shoots as great as a 300 if not better.

A few good options should get you more
Or less in that are for total weight:

5mm - use a titanium or at least stainless steel half out, shok collar is up to you. I like these ones mfjj sells. HITs are fine.
RIP TKO
GoldTip black label quantum - best budget arrow
Gold Tip air strike

4mm-only use Easton titanium outsert.
Any of the ones listed in posts above I like VAP TKO, GT pierce platinum, axis long range. These 3 are all roughly same gpi.

 

[bowhiker88]

For durability and accessibility (meaning can buy anywhere like big box retailers and archery shops) to achieve your weight and speed the 5mm axis in 340 with a 50g HIT and 3 fletch AAE hybrid will do the job.

 

[HoytHntr4]

I switched to a RIP TKO in a 300 spine which allowed me to drop down to a stiffer arrow from my previous 340’s and also be lighter GPI. Using a 75gn HIT, my TAW comes out right at 450. They’ve been great for me so far

 

[Benjblt]

So if your 26.5" arrow length measurement includes the exposed portion of the half-out, your carbon-to-carbon length would be around 25.5" (which would indeed be flirting with the bare minimum at a 27.5" draw length).

So you are right. I misunderstood the guy working at the proshop and should have measured myself. Its more like 26.25" from carbon to the end of the half-out. I guess the question would be, where should the end of the arrow be at full draw in relation to my grip? I realize that it's a bit preference but I safety is always my number one concern.

 

[Bowhunter'07]

I'm currently shooting the last version of the Easton 4mm FMJ's, 400 spine w/55 grain titanium outsert for a total weight of 446 grains with a 100 grain head. My draw is 27.5" with 70 lb limbs shooting roughly 275-278 fps. I started to re-examine my arrow set up after I traded in my Bowtech BTX 28 on warranty for a CP28. I like the strength of the FMJ's but I've got two problems: 1) I was originally shooting at a 27"draw and discovered that 27.5" was what I should be shooting. I'd had my FMJ's cut as short as possible (roughly 26.5", I know, I'm an idiot) prior to lenghtening my draw. Well now I need to lenghten my arrow. Probably closer to 28" really. 2) I think I need to move to a 340 spine as I'm on the verge of the the 400's not being rigid enough.

I really want to stay aroudn 450 grains, give or take 10 grains, to maintain some semblance of speed. What arrow would you all recommend? If i just go to the 340 4mm FMJ's i think that would put me in the 480's. I'd love to stick with the aluminum hybrid but I'm not stuck to it. The guy at the bow shop mentioned the VAP TKO. I'm open to suggestions. I'm not looking for expensive but I'll do what i have to do. I just need repeatable accuracy without having to tune the crap out of my bow.

Also, I now have some good FMJ's for sale

How many FMJs are you looking to sell? Might be just what I need

 

[Mighty Mouse]

So you are right. I misunderstood the guy working at the proshop and should have measured myself. Its more like 26.25" from carbon to the end of the half-out. I guess the question would be, where should the end of the arrow be at full draw in relation to my grip? I realize that it's a bit preference but I safety is always my number one concern.

For maximum safety, leave the arrow long enough such that no part of the broadhead can ever get behind your fingers.

Most folks recommend shooting with a closed grip and fingers lightly resting on the riser, which will keep your fingers out of the arrow path regardless of arrow length. But if you get careless/excited and open your grip hand, your fingers could get into the arrow path. If that were to happen with your broadhead behind your fingers at full draw, the broadhead could clip your finger(s). I think the risk is generally pretty low, but I have heard of it happening.

 

[Benjblt]

How many FMJs are you looking to sell? Might be just what I need

I have roughly 18. Might be a couple less now. They have the titanium inserts. If you're truly interested let me know. Also, note my description of length above. I have a couple arrows that are close to weight and components with slight variations from when I originally tested them. I can do a count later if you are interested.

 

[Benjblt]

For maximium safety, leave the arrow long enough such that no part of the broadhead can ever get behind your fingers.

Most folks recommend shooting with a closed grip and fingers lightly resting on the riser, which will keep your fingers out of the arrow path regardless of arrow length. But if you get careless/excited and open your grip hand, your fingers could get into the arrow path. If that were to happen with your broadhead behind your fingers at full draw, the broadhead could clip your finger(s). I think the risk is generally pretty low, but I have heard of it happening.

Scary stuff. That's probably my greatest fear when shooting my bow. If I was shooting 100% carbon it would be the carbon splintering as soon as I release.

I feel like I would have to cut the shaft really long to achieve what you are saying though it makes sense. So I'm wondering If I would ever be willing to cut them short enough to achieve that criteria. I'm not sure 2 more inches would even get me there.

I appreciate the feedback. I'm no expert and I'm always willing to learn from those that have knowledge to offer.

 

[Bowhunter'07]

I have roughly 18. Might be a couple less now. They have the titanium inserts. If you're truly interested let me know. Also, note my description of length above. I have a couple arrows that are close to weight and components with slight variations from when I originally tested them. I can do a count later if you are interested.

Ok, I'll let you know

 

[Marble]

Scary stuff. That's probably my greatest fear when shooting my bow. If I was shooting 100% carbon it would be the carbon splintering as soon as I release.

I feel like I would have to cut the shaft really long to achieve what you are saying though it makes sense. So I'm wondering If I would ever be willing to cut them short enough to achieve that criteria. I'm not sure 2 more inches would even get me there.

I appreciate the feedback. I'm no expert and I'm always willing to learn from those that have knowledge to offer.

I agree with might mouse. I'm just not worried about it. My arrow sits well within my riser, but it's not for everyone. I curl my index finger around and into my riser, placing my finger nail against it.

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[Sled]

I shoot short arrows but also inspect my nocks and carbon shafts regularly and prior to screwing on a BH. Even without a BH, it's possible to put a shaft through your bow arm.

Mitigate your risks as you see fit.