When to tune your bow

[HaveBowWillTravel]

Hey guys,

My question is, when do you know when "it's time" to have your bow tuned at the pro shop? Is it like a car, where you take it in for service at certain mileage intervals? Basically, last year, before my New Mexico elk hunt, I upgraded from a Bowtech Cabron Icon to a Hoyt Carbon RX3, with a Spot Hogg sight. After my hunt, (which was in September), I had a whitetail hunt in November, so I went and paid a hundred some odd dollars to get it tuned again before my hunt. But all of that being said, it shot great and didn't feel like "it needed" a tune up. I was more doing it out of some kind of imaginary contract with the archery bow hunting gods so my arrows would fly straight when I shoot at an animal. Now, here I am...2020, in the midst of a pandemic and getting ready to leave for this year's September archery elk hunt. My bow is shooting fine and no issues I can see (other than string is a very little bit stringy and dry, but I keep waxing it). So my question is, it's been since last November since I've had my bow tuned and I've hunted boar and blacktail with it since....do I need to get it tuned before I leave for this years sept elk? If so, why, if the arrows are hitting the mark? When do you get YOUR bow tuned? How is one to know when this is necessary. I hate just throwing out Benjamins for something that may not be necessary. Also, for all you gnarly archery expert pros out there...no, I am not going to tune my bow myself. Maybe one day someone can teach me, but in the meantime, I rely on the pro shop. I appreciate all your input/insight on this subject matter. Thanks!

 

[Rodéo]

Tune your bow when you change something. Something like strings, new arrows, new rest... essentially when any main component of the bow gets replaced or taken off or changed in terms of weight components for arrows, it's probably a good idea to re-tune.

No need to do what you're talking about imo. Bows are not like cars in that way... if it's shooting good and it keeps shooting good and you haven't changed anything, no need to tune.

Let the others chime in

 

[weaver]

I keep a bareshaft that I shoot occasionally and any issues will show up.
With that said I haven't made an adjustment in 2+ years.
Good strings are critical for keeping everything in tune.
Point of aim being off is also a sign something is out of tune.

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[Boxerboxer]

Hey guys,

My question is, when do you know when "it's time" to have your bow tuned at the pro shop? Is it like a car, where you take it in for service at certain mileage intervals? Basically, last year, before my New Mexico elk hunt, I upgraded from a Bowtech Cabron Icon to a Hoyt Carbon RX3, with a Spot Hogg sight. After my hunt, (which was in September), I had a whitetail hunt in November, so I went and paid a hundred some odd dollars to get it tuned again before my hunt. But all of that being said, it shot great and didn't feel like "it needed" a tune up. I was more doing it out of some kind of imaginary contract with the archery bow hunting gods so my arrows would fly straight when I shoot at an animal. Now, here I am...2020, in the midst of a pandemic and getting ready to leave for this year's September archery elk hunt. My bow is shooting fine and no issues I can see (other than string is a very little bit stringy and dry, but I keep waxing it). So my question is, it's been since last November since I've had my bow tuned and I've hunted boar and blacktail with it since....do I need to get it tuned before I leave for this years sept elk? If so, why, if the arrows are hitting the mark? When do you get YOUR bow tuned? How is one to know when this is necessary. I hate just throwing out Benjamins for something that may not be necessary. Also, for all you gnarly archery expert pros out there...no, I am not going to tune my bow myself. Maybe one day someone can teach me, but in the meantime, I rely on the pro shop. I appreciate all your input/insight on this subject matter. Thanks!

Easiest check is shooting through paper. That will tell you if your arrow is flying straight. All you really need is a cardboard box or some sort of frame you can attach paper to shoot through, set up at least an arrows length away from your target. If you don't have a bad tear I'd say just leave it.

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[bsnedeker]

So of course I'm going to have to differ with all the other differing responses above...lol! To me the most important way to check your bow tune is broadhead tuning. If your broadheads are hitting with your field points out to your maximum effective range then you do not need to tune. Bareshaft tuning and paper tuning are starting points in my opinion, but broadhead tuning is where the rubber meets the road as far as hunting is concerned...just my 2 cents!

 

[Beendare]

When to tune?

When your BH's no longer hit with your FP's.

You want your BH's to go where they are aimed of course....when this doesn't happen....its tuning time.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Getting broadheads to hit the same spot as field points is the ultimate goal of tuning. If your setup can do that, I wouldn't change anything, especially not this close to your hunt.

Even if you don't want to actually make the tuning adjustments yourself, there are easy ways to check your tune and see if any adjustments are needed. Comparing field point and broadhead points-of-impact is one method. Comparing bareshaft and fletched shaft POI is another. Shooting through paper and studying the tear is yet another.

 

[Boxerboxer]

So of course I'm going to have to differ with all the other differing responses above...lol! To me the most important way to check your bow tune is broadhead tuning. If your broadheads are hitting with your field points out to your maximum effective range then you do not need to tune. Bareshaft tuning and paper tuning are starting points in my opinion, but broadhead tuning is where the rubber meets the road as far as hunting is concerned...just my 2 cents!

This works too. It's all just looking at the same thing from different angles, but for a hunter the broadhead test is most definitive, that's fair.

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[Brendan]

I never tune my bow at a pro shop, because it has to be tuned with you shooting it.

When does it need to be tuned? When I shoot a broadhead and field point and they don't hit to the same point of impact (minus elevation at long range).

Agree with the comment above - I never, ever paper tune any more. I start with bare shaft, finish with broadhead tuning.

 

[Pbast81]

So of course I'm going to have to differ with all the other differing responses above...lol! To me the most important way to check your bow tune is broadhead tuning. If your broadheads are hitting with your field points out to your maximum effective range then you do not need to tune. Bareshaft tuning and paper tuning are starting points in my opinion, but broadhead tuning is where the rubber meets the road as far as hunting is concerned...just my 2 cents!

Exactly if your broadheads are grouping with your field points your bow is happy!

 

[JeffRaines]

I never tune my bow at a pro shop, because it has to be tuned with you shooting it.

When does it need to be tuned? When I shoot a broadhead and field point and they don't hit to the same point of impact (minus elevation at long range).

Agree with the comment above - I never, ever paper tune any more. I start with bare shaft, finish with broadhead tuning.

Agree with this guy.

You can’t drop your bow off and get it tuned. If your guy isn’t having YOU shoot the bow during the paper tune then I’d advise you going with someone else.

Instead of comparing it to getting your oil changed, I’d more compare tuning to adjusting your car seat. The car still drives, but if it’s adjusted to your mechanic and he’s 6 foot tall and you’re only 5’6 it’s probably not going to work well for you.

Also, at a couple hundred bucks a pop - a couple tunes and you could buy the tools(including press) to do it yourself. I realize in the middle of season isn’t the time to learn, but I’d advise you to purchase and learn in the off season. It doesn’t take a college degree to work on a bow.

 

[4rcgoat]

If you shoot enough,....you'll know.

 

[S.Clancy]

If you shoot enough,....you'll know.

Exactly

 

[trophyhill]

when the string stretches enough to throw my peep site off, my bow is talking to me and telling me it may be time. of the string stops are off the mark, then i start paying attention and depending on time of year, i may or may not take it in for a tune up. within a couple months of a hunt, i take it in right away. my broadheads tell the real story.

 

[trophyhill]

I never tune my bow at a pro shop, because it has to be tuned with you shooting it.

When does it need to be tuned? When I shoot a broadhead and field point and they don't hit to the same point of impact (minus elevation at long range).

Agree with the comment above - I never, ever paper tune any more. I start with bare shaft, finish with broadhead tuning.

opposite for me. if they are too busy to get to it right away, i drop it off. the tech tunes my D350 with his eyes closed. these types are rare these days so i wouldn't blame someone for doing it themselves. when i go in to pick it up, we go thru everything and i dont walk out unless I'm shooting bullet holes. we look at timing, lean, peep, rest, the whole 9. i have them draw it back on the Hooter Shooter and inspect timing. once its in perfect sync, we mark the cam/limb so its an easy quick reference when string starts stretching.

 

[Brendan]

opposite for me. if they are too busy to get to it right away, i drop it off. the tech tunes my D350 with his eyes closed. these types are rare these days so i wouldn't blame someone for doing it themselves. when i go in to pick it up, we go thru everything and i dont walk out unless I'm shooting bullet holes. we look at timing, lean, peep, rest, the whole 9. i have them draw it back on the Hooter Shooter and inspect timing. once its in perfect sync, we mark the cam/limb so its an easy quick reference when string starts stretching.

My opinion is what you're talking about is initial setup, not final tuning.

The problem with having a shop tune a bow is that a bow shoots differently out of a hooter shooter, than it does in the bow tech's hand, than it does out of your hand. Bullet holes can be misleading too as I've watched paper tears go from left tear, to bullet hole, to right tear just by changing the distance from the paper. Hell, I can tune my bow shooting perfect bare shafts, broadheads, field points and then throw a merino glove on my bow hand and it changes the tune. Some releases change the tune. Too many variables.

Bottom line, a pro shop and a good setup is a good start, but tune needs to be verified with broadheads at distance by the actual shooter.

 

[trophyhill]

My opinion is what you're talking about is initial setup, not final tuning.

The problem with having a shop tune a bow is that a bow shoots differently out of a hooter shooter, than it does in the bow tech's hand, than it does out of your hand. Bullet holes can be misleading too as I've watched paper tears go from left tear, to bullet hole, to right tear just by changing the distance from the paper. Hell, I can tune my bow shooting perfect bare shafts, broadheads, field points and then throw a merino glove on my bow hand and it changes the tune. Some releases change the tune. Too many variables.

Bottom line, a pro shop and a good setup is a good start, but tune needs to be verified with broadheads at distance by the actual shooter.

i agree the shop is the starting point. there is more to it for me. we don't release an arrow from the hooter shooter. its just to check timing.

i am fortunate though. once i leave the shop, its only a matter of arrow tuning at that point for me. this D350 is so simple. this past weekend i went through and finished building my arrows. squared ends, spin tested and finally shot broadheads. my D350 shoots RazorTricks, Magnums and Standards like field points. my SR 6 likes the Magnums and Standards best.

if you have to move a rest or nock or peep or anything else on your bow, then chances are, it was not set up properly to begin with, or you have an arrow issue. imho of course

 

[Brendan]

I've never had to tune an arrow, ever. That includes even turning a nock to bring one into a group. Personally I think you pick one with an appropriate spine, use high quality components, build appropriately and meticulously, and you really never need to touch one.

if you have to move a rest or nock or peep or anything else on your bow, then chances are, it was not set up properly to begin with, or you have an arrow issue. imho of course

I will disagree with you on the rest. While I'd prefer to yoke tune, or shim cams, there are scenarios you need to tweak the rest away from a perfect centershot to get perfect broadhead flight (Prime Centergy and CT5 as examples). All of the setup in the world is great, but at the end of the day what matters is perfect arrow flight.

 

[trophyhill]

I've never had to tune an arrow, ever. That includes even turning a nock to bring one into a group. Personally I think you pick one with an appropriate spine, use high quality components, build appropriately and meticulously, and you really never need to touch one.

Agree



I will disagree with you on the rest. While I'd prefer to yoke tune, or shim cams, there are scenarios you need to tweak the rest away from a perfect centershot to get perfect broadhead flight (Prime Centergy and CT5 as examples). All of the setup in the world is great, but at the end of the day what matters is perfect arrow flight.

agree to disagree. my D350 really is that good the proper spine is or should be top priority. makes everything else easier to dial in

 

[fatlander]

As others have said, if your broadheads are hitting where they’re supposed to, it’s good.

I shot all of my broadheads at 60 last night. I hadn’t shot them out to 60 since I put my new strings on after spring gobbler season. The broadheads were impacting about 3” left of my field points. I put a twist in my right yoke, took one out of the left and now they’re stacked in with field points.

Hit the VPAs a few times on my sharpener and I’m ready to go for September elk.


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