What should every archery hunter know?

[fulldraw1972]

I myself don't paper tune. I do walk back tune and french tune some but the big one is broadhead tune. I will do this all the way to 70 yard
You will be amazed at even though at 20 yards every thing is a OK but you get out to 7 yards and all of a sudden you have a gap between your broadheads and field points.

I am also pretty particular on keeping the bow in specs. Until this year I have always shot Mathews so I was always checking for idler lean. Going to a binary set of cams I have to learn all over again.

One thing I have learned in myself is if my bow is tuned good my confidence is high.

 

[HellsCanyon]

Hey brother, you and I shoot the EXACT same bow, with the EXACT same strings. Lol. They are a diamond in the rough. You can find them so cheap yet they will outperform most companies flagship bows and they are a 3 years old!

You aren't kidding I love this bow. What kind of speed are you getting? I had mine at 29"/70 lbs and was getting 318 fps on a 385 grain arrow...

One thing I've noticed, and maybe you guys can inform me why this is, but my broadheads have ALWAYS been about 2" low on point of impact compared to my field points.. Doesn't matter the distance and I always was able to fix it by doing a gang adjustment and things are dialed in again. This was after paper tuning + bareshaft tuning and arrow flight is great as well.... thoughts?

Mike

 

[mtbshark]

Mike i would say dont look into the paper tune as much and do a walk back tune then broad head tune.
That should get your field points and your broad heads together!

I am OCD about my broad heads and my field point hitting the same spot, I have buddies that i hunt with that tune their sights to their broad heads every fall then after the season they sight back into the field points. Man it drives me crazy to watch them do it!!!!

 

[HellsCanyon]

I'll be starting again after I get my new strings next week. Never done the walk back or broadhead tuning as the bare shaft and paper tuning as always seemed to get me great arrow flight and the bow has been great out to 80 yards with it... I will start reading more into that Nuts n Bolts manual next week to start getting a better idea why I'm doing what I'm doing...

Best way to learn is to jump in with both feet right? Ha

Mike

 

[mtbshark]

heck ya both feet blind folded!!!!!

this helped me out a ton, http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1606741

 

[justin davis]

Paper tuning is worthless in my opinion. It all comes down to if your field points and broadheads are hitting together.
I've had arrows that shot bullets thru paper but when shot at a distance with broadheads no such luck and vice a versa.

I typically shoot a bare shaft with fletch arrow at a thin piece of tape or string to get a gauge. Walk back tuning is good as well!

 

[ontarget7]

To each their own but I test through paper, walkback/modified french tune, bareshafts and finally follow up with a broadhead to verify everything. I think they all have a purpose and are all part of being very thorough while accomplishing a very good end result. The first one is used for nock height, the second for fine tuning your centershot and the third to fine tune your lateral and vertical nock travel. Now, if your dynamic spine is right, these steps will fall into place with one another and if not, when it comes time for testing broadheads you will still have some issues.

The biggest thing you need is PATIENCE. For me I enjoy the technical side of this great sport and it leads me to the anticipation of my hunts.

 

[jmez]

I don't think any form of tuning is worthless. They all have a place. I think far too much emphasis gets put on tuning as apposed to correct and repeatable shooting form.

Tuning a bow is easy. Shoot a bow correctly and repeatably is very difficult.

 

[bowuntr]

Jmez last paragraph sums it all up... putting it all together is everything... not everyone can do it. Ed F