What do you consider Hot, Med and Mild loads?

[TimberHunter]

In my quest to find a load that is accurate, some what easy on my Lapua 308 win brass and effective on game at long range I find myself wondering what PSI should I be aiming for? Max sammi pressure is 62,000 psi for a 308 win.

My rifle (1 year old rem 700 clone) seems to like loads at or above sammi max pressure (according to quick load). But I am concerned from a long term safety standpoint as well as a brass longevity stand point


In your opinion, what psi range would be considered “hot”, “normal/medium” and “mild”? If you don’t know PSI, what percentage off of max psi would you consider “hot”, normal/medium” and “mild”? How far off max would be the ideal compromise?

Thanks all


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[TimberHunter]

Bump... a simpler way to sum all that up would be:

Is there a generally accepted psi range/percentage below max sammi that you go for?


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[wyosam]

I want something that is an expected velocity for the cartridge and within a wide accuracy node, with the exception of something like the absolute hammers. Sure, maybe I could reach a higher node, but nothing is free. I like to shoot quality brass and take care of it, so I dont want to beat the primer pockets out chasing a few FPS. If I can’t get what I want with that cartridge, I use a different cartridge. If I want to sling 6.5 140s at 2950, I’m not going to try to get there with a creedmoor, I’m going to use 6.5-284, PRC, or something else that will get there comfortably.


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[TimberHunter]

If sammi max pressure is 62,000 PSI and QL estimates a load at 58,000 psi, would you feel safe? Or do you like to see lower pressures for safety and brass life?


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[wyosam]

I haven’t messed with QL, but I’d bet that would give good brass life.


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[TimberHunter]

Thanks, that’s what I’m looking for. Just a general idea of where people feel safe when they work up load


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[Rich M]

How are you gonna measure the pressure?

I'd say to find a nice shooting middle of the road load and run with it. That's what the loading manuals are for - a starting point. Measure velocity and read the brass, primer, and recoil. See how tight it shoots. Work it up.

Shoot for accuracy and not speed. I've got mixed brass that has been loaded in excess of 10x and it keeps on giving. Talking 3006 at 2900 fps, 150 gr here.

Hot is at or over max load for powder bullet combo.
Medium is under max load
Low is a couple of grains below max load

It takes a lot of effort to blow up your gun, if that's what you are worried about, not likely to happen if you are using listed loads.

 

[TimberHunter]

How are you gonna measure the pressure?

I'd say to find a nice shooting middle of the road load and run with it. That's what the loading manuals are for - a starting point. Measure velocity and read the brass, primer, and recoil. See how tight it shoots. Work it up.

Shoot for accuracy and not speed. I've got mixed brass that has been loaded in excess of 10x and it keeps on giving. Talking 3006 at 2900 fps, 150 gr here.

Hot is at or over max load for powder bullet combo.
Medium is under max load
Low is a couple of grains below max load

It takes a lot of effort to blow up your gun, if that's what you are worried about, not likely to happen if you are using listed loads.

Thanks for your thoughts! I think this all came about because I was within book specs but due to a little longer bullet (less case capacity) and Lapua brass, I was at and above max pressure while still within book specs. Didn’t see any pressure signs on the Lapua brass due it it being stronger/stiffer brass but my velocity was above book value and I only have a 20” barrel while the book data was on 24” barrel

But boy were those hot loads accurate!


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[Piscatory_4]

Look at it as though book max loads are for worse case scenarios. For example Barnes load data for 168 7mm bullet in 7rm is 60gr 7828 max. Felt like shooting 257 roberts.

 

[TimberHunter]

Look at it as though book max loads are for worse case scenarios. For example Barnes load data for 168 7mm bullet in 7rm is 60gr 7828 max. Felt like shooting 257 roberts.

According to quickload, about half way through the book lot value I was above sammi pressure. In this case the book load wasn’t worst case


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[rayporter]

ok
just like a target dont lie, a rifle dont and cant lie.

if you have pressure signs. you have pressure.

every one is different. a perfect chamber that matches your dies and good brass helps.

 

[TimberHunter]

ok
just like a target dont lie, a rifle dont and cant lie.

if you have pressure signs. you have pressure.

every one is different. a perfect chamber that matches your dies and good brass helps.

I’ve had pressure signs with Hornady in mid powder range and pressure signs on Nosler brass on the upper end of powder range. Lapua is not showing any signs even with the reduced powder case capacity and max book loads. That’s what has be scratching my head? Lapua is just that much strong we of brass?


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[Piscatory_4]

That is why they say work your way up from low charge weights. Did you check you powder scale for zero and accuracy before starting?

 

[rayporter]

yes lapua is that much better-at least for me.

and the reason every manual says to start over when ever you change a component. any component.

 

[wind gypsy]

Your chamber, barrel bore/groove diameter, land configuration, barrel condition, powder lot, bullet lot, brass lot, atmospherics, and on and on, all impact pressure. I’ve found some loads in the same manual too hot at the starting charges for one cartridge/rifle and mild at the max charge for another.

Velocity and pressure signs paint a pretty good story. If you’re not recording unusually high velocities or seeing pressure signs you’re probably fine. Lapua (especially srp) brass can take a lot of pressure without showing it.

 

[ID_Matt]

I think quickload is just a baseline... too many factors to be able to precisely judge pressure just from that program. Brass lots, barrel tolerances, etc. can all change. Not to mention temperature can also change your pressures as well depending on the powder. I would let the gun dictate. To me, a hot load is when you start seeing primers flatten a bit, ejector marks, and maybe a tighter bolt lift. Medium would be a few grains below that where you are towards the upper end of the expected velocity but show no pressure signs. Mild would be a few grains below that - easy bolt lift, average velocity, mild recoil.