Western hunting stabilizer?

Boreal

WKR
Joined
Nov 11, 2013
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356
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Anchorage, AK
Howdy all,
I've read more than I've posted on this forum, and have appreciated all the things I've learned. I've only been shooting my bow (Elite Impulse 34, 29.5", QAD, CBE Tek Hybrid) since November, but it is a passion. I've had a Limbsaver LS Hunter stabilizer on it since the stabilizer was on sale, but didn't give it much more thought than that when I bought it. I recently shot my first 3D tournament and had a blast! The three guys I was shooting with were all competition shooters who hunt occasionally. They were all shooting 30-36" stabilizers, and recommended I get a different stabilizer to tighten up groups. I'm primarily planning on hunting with this bow in Alaska and western states, but see the potential value in a more stable setup for improving form and whenever tourments, league, etc. come up. So my question is:

What stabilizer setup (single, multiple?) would you all recommend for a western hunter who is also interested in outshooting the competition guys at the next 3D shoot?

Thanks!
 

DEW0341

WKR
Joined
Mar 19, 2016
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462
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camp pendleton, ca
I personally feel fine with a 10-12" bee stinger. I live by the KISS method (Keep It Simple Stupid)


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AZElk

FNG
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Jun 11, 2016
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91
Location
Pheonix, Arizona
I use a Beestinger 8 inch Pro Hunter Maxx stabilizer. It cost me about $80 but is well worth the money. It allows you to adjust your weights on the end with 3 removable plates (1)2oz (2) 4oz.
 

kodiakfly

WKR
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Jan 25, 2014
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Kodiak
Yeah, avoid the urge to get competition craziness on your hunting bow. I like the Fuse Carbon Blade in 8-11", depending on bow. Just something 8-10" that 'll put some weight forward for you is just fine. Some guys have V-brackets and 20"+ bars with rear offset bars and all that...not that they don't work; they do help settle a bow down. But it's the law of compromise. You gotta carry all of that weight up the hill and get it through alders and grass. Plus, you're not shooting X's at 50 yards...you're shooting a moose or a deer. That, and it cracks me up when a buddy slaps a bunch of stabilizers, offsets and weights on his bow, but will tell you he has no idea how he wants his bow to balance or what each piece does.

Keep it simple hunting.
 

colersu22

WKR
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Apr 10, 2016
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Wa
How are you shooting now, if it ain't broke don't fix it. I shoot just as well with my old alphamax with or without my stab. Like stated already I would not want have a 30" stab to get in the way or a sidebar with how thick it is in western WA.
 
Joined
Apr 29, 2015
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Littleton, CO
I am new to archery, so take this with a grain of salt and with the understanding that I have no real field experience yet. I recently picked up a 10" and 8" from Shadow Stabilizers, a sponsor over on Archery Talk. Very sleek and simple stabilizers at a good price ($115 for 8", 10" 2x1oz, 2x2oz, 2x4oz and 2x2" screws). I combined them with the Bowfinger Ultimate Side Bar Mount ($87) and I now have a fully customizable quick detach setup that I am really liking so far.
 
Joined
Jul 23, 2013
Messages
1,260
I run a 12" up front and 10" out back. I just love how my bow shoots with a back bar and it has never gotten in my way
 

jmez

WKR
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Jun 12, 2012
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7,560
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Piedmont, SD
I use a 10 inch B stinger on a quick connect which adds about and inch to the length.

If you are wanting to improve accuracy and slow down the pin float then you will need to experiment with several different set ups and weights to decide on the right combination. You can't just buy a stabilizer and slap it on. A couple of years ago I would have argued that point. I never saw a difference in them either until a target shoot brought over his entire set up for me and I spent a week or so trying different combinations. An inch and a couple of oz's can make a huge difference.

When you hit the right combo it will be an aha moment.
 

OR Archer

WKR
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Feb 29, 2012
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3,069
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Mesa,AZ
I currently shoot a 10" B Stinger. Like Jmez stated you will want to play around with the weight a bit to get a good hold. On my carbon bow last year I ran 10oz of weight out front. On my current Elite Im running only 5oz. So pick a stabilizer that allows you the option of adding/subtracting weight.
 

OR Archer

WKR
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Feb 29, 2012
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3,069
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Mesa,AZ
And just to add to my previous post do your accuracy testing at distance ie 50+ yards. Comparing stabilization at 20 yards is pretty pointless in my opinion.
 
OP
Boreal

Boreal

WKR
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Nov 11, 2013
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Anchorage, AK
I personally feel fine with a 10-12" bee stinger. I live by the KISS method (Keep It Simple Stupid)


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I tend to fall on the second S in that formula, but that makes sense to me.


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Joined
Apr 1, 2016
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733
Location
Eastern Washington
You might want to look at a Quivalizer. Depending on where you hunt you could get what you're looking for with the slower pin float and not add weight to your bow.
 

Bulldawg

WKR
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Aug 8, 2014
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Minnesota
I run the a 10" bee stinger out front and a 8" on a side bar, I won't shoot without the side bar it's pretty sweet.
 

Manosteel

WKR
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Jan 24, 2013
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Alberta, Canada
I have always ran a 8 to 11" stabilizer out front since the late 90's. Weights would depend on the particular bow, some had only 2oz while others 8oz. As OR Archer states do all your testing at 50+ yards, I could never see an appreciable difference in my accuracy with or without a stabilizer 40 yards or under, pin float was different (which I like, I am a pin float guy - I don't try and force a hold on the dot) but accuracy was same. After 50 yards you will see a difference in both pin float and accuracy.

This year I went with a lower mounted side bar on my Prime Rize. WOW! what a difference that made to my pin float. I am way more stable on target and throughout the shot. My groups were always under MOA out to 100 yards but they have noticeably tightened up. I cant believe I waited this long to try one.

I now run a 10" B-stinger with QD upfront and 8" B-stinger on the back side mounted low on the riser. the side bar is mounted about 15 degree down from level and 20 degrees out from the string. It took about a week (and roughly 180 shots) of playing around with different configuration before I got it to where it worked best. I really like the bow to be neutral at full draw so I ended up not needing much weight up front or out back.

The weight gain in minimal and do not out weigh the benefits. All my bows will always have a short back side bar. I am a Believer :)
 
OP
Boreal

Boreal

WKR
Joined
Nov 11, 2013
Messages
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Location
Anchorage, AK
Thanks, all! After reading and reading and reading, I settled on a bee stinger, hunting pro, 10" that was on sale. Very noticeable improvement in pin stability, especially at longer distances. Feeling very comfortable out to 80 yards. Now I need to put the tight spot on and see if I think a side bar is necessary. Thanks again for all the experience and info!


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Joined
Oct 1, 2013
Messages
881
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Northern California
Thanks, all! After reading and reading and reading, I settled on a bee stinger, hunting pro, 10" that was on sale. Very noticeable improvement in pin stability, especially at longer distances. Feeling very comfortable out to 80 yards. Now I need to put the tight spot on and see if I think a side bar is necessary. Thanks again for all the experience and info!


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I am fairly new to archery, only shooting a few months. However I think I am far ahead of the curve. I shoot every day out to 100yard. I can hit an egg pretty constantly at 60yards. I first had just he tight spot and 10" beestinger pro. I was shooting very well with that set up. Recently I added an 8" side bar. I can tell you the difference is huge. the bow does not want to cant. very ballanced, and I can really hold the pins on the spot tighter. groups shrank, and now like I said I can hit an egg shaped target at 60 more than not. worth the weight to me
 
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